GardenKit

Good luck with the 201's Steve. I had one I could not sort, so sent it back to the Stihl main dealer I bought it from. They fitted new pot and piston, but when it came back it was still useless. So it went back again. they said "its perfect" So the customer tried it and then brought it back "its useless" he said. So its now with Stihl themselves. I wonder what it will be like when it comes back? If you can sort the 201 out, you will make history Steve.

I have only just seen this thread. I thought they did a good job, you should see some of the trees I have felled! But then, its not what i do for a living, and i have had no training. Seriously though, since joining Arbtalk and following threads such as this, I realise how stupid (and lucky) I have been in the past. I will probably never drop another tree again.

No Eddy, i have not thought to take photos, but I see very many machines with almost totally closed exhaust ports. Most, if not all, will be accompanied by oily exhausts and very dirty (oily) engines. This is typical of "oil of excess quantity, or insufficient quality". I rarely see it on machines where the owners use the quality 2t oil I sell, and have never yet seen any sign at all of coking on engines using Aspen2t. Next time I have a 'coked' exhaust port I will photograph and post up on my Aspen thread.

No problem at all, if you are having no problems. The Stihl statement applies very well to the product you are using, and covers their rear end very nicely. It is a bit unfair however to those other brands of oil which are equally as good as Stihl oils. Using those oils (or Stihl's ) at 25:1 would cause problems.

Looking at the quality of Carlube 2t, I think they are wise to use it at 25:1 !

But to all the users of standard saws and other hand held two strokes, do not be afraid of 50:1 with quality oils. It is the correct ratio and will not do any harm at all. I have not ported any saws but have sold and repaired not hundreds, but thousands, of two stroke machines, all of which have bee run at 50:1 with no problems. As long as it is reputable oil. As I have said before though, use cheap oils at your peril, and if you do then its best to mix a bit stronger.

No problem Dan, glad you sorted it easily.

At least you still have your station Richard. Hemsby were not so lucky.

Ok Dan, so the 026 has just had a new carb. Was it correctly tuned when fitted, or just put on with original settings. And if it was tuned, was it on petrol or Aspen? If it was tuned on petrol then a very slight anticlockwise turn on the L screw may stabilize the tickover. Probably no more than 1/8 turn should do the trick. If not then gently turn the screw whichever way seems to improve the tickover. When you have a reasonable tickover, let it settle for a minute. Then slowly screw the L in until the revs start to drop (lean drop off point) then slowly out until they rise then drop off again (rich drop off point). This should all happen within 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn. Now you know the drop offs at each end, you need to screw it in to max idle and take it back out again until just before the rich drop off point. This should ensure that when you blip the throttle it picks up instantly with no 'dead spot'. If the tickover is too slow, or fast at this point you can then adjust it on the LA screw. Hope this helps

Thanks Dan, its empty now!

The chances are that the switchover will be completely trouble free. If you do have any issues they will be minor ones, so post them up here and help will be forthcoming.

Fair enough, but my info comes from the Stihl "Mediacat" dealer system, but let us hope it fits anyway.

Really? despite it being the wrong part number? Good luck.

1121 350 0829 is the correct tank for an 024 and 026 1121 350 0834 is the correct tank for a 240 and 260 (rrp £59.03 plus vat)

Your symptons are classic fuel starvation. I would suspect the carb gauze filter, but you say you have cleaned that. Sometimes though, it is difficult to clean a carb without an Ultrasonic bath. I would firstly check the fuel pickup hose for holes or cracks, it could well be sucking air. But come to think of it, you should be able to start it again straight away with fuel starvation,when reprimed, so maybe best to check the spark immediately after it has stopped, as it could be Eddie's coil suggestion.

Hahaha, but as a dealer it bothers me when the parts I get in for someones "020" are wrong because its actually a 201:001_rolleyes:

I tried windmills, they did not work. I tried mothballs, they pushed them out on top of their hills, I tried putting the car exhaust down the hole, no luck. I tried flooding them out with hose pipes, that was a waste of water. I tried a 47kg bottle of propane followed by a match, had lots of volcanoes but the moles just liked the warmth. I tried a sonic probe, the moles surrounded it, they loved the vibes. I do not have a shotgun, so I sat for hours with a speargun, I missed every time. I tried bashing them with a shovel, but broke the handle. So I tried traps, and they worked!

They are fairly easy to trap, I usually manage to trap one within 24hours of setting the traps, I once had one within 20 minutes! Usually set about 6 traps at a time when I have enough hills to find the routes, and on average would get about 6 moles a year from my lawn.

We have to drive carefully too as the roads are full of people with guns dressed as hedges.

Well done Richard, stick at it, do a good job and the word will spread.

I really do not get it. I do think Stihl is getting a bit too much stick over current issues, sure, they do seem to have made some bloopers recently, but even though I am not a main Stihl dealer I did hold their Pro products in high regard. (can not say this about their lower range stuff though, very poor in my opinion). But I simply cannot understand how it can be so difficult for them to realise they have a problem with plastic handles that are too flexible and actually produce a stronger handle. Its hardly rocket science and they have had two years or more to sort it. They have had a few too many issues now, the 201t, the 261, the soft handles, the 4 mix engine and now the 661. I wonder if they can come back from this?

Check the governor springs, they get bent easily. Also check that the rod from the governor arm at the rear of the engine to the carb at the front is not being restricted by the fuel hose. Also check the inlet manifold is intact and not taking in air. But the most common cause is the carb itself. I get quite a few of these in under warranty from Homebase and the like. If the above things are OK we stick a new carb on and it cures it every time. Cheap Chinese engines for, I hate them.

I thought the cutomer was a poxymoron!!!

Haha, I used to watch it if I had managed to get the kids to bed early!!

The joys of dealership! I sold a JD ride-on in August to a chap 20 miles away. He phones this week complaining it wont start. It stopped whilst he was using it. I ran through the obvious things, petrol etc. He said he first thought it had run out of petrol so he went out and bought a gallon. When he took the cap off there was still some fuel but he put more in anyway. Still would not start. So he is not happy, he says it has to be a fault with the machine and I have to fix it, which of course I am happy to do. So sent the van driver to collect it. When it arrives in the yard I try to start it but the battery is flat by this time. Put the jump pack on and it still does not fire. I check the tank and there is about half an inch of petrol in the tank, not reaching the pick up point! Put a gallon in and try again. Fine. I phone the guy and tell him, ask him why he did not put more fuel in. He says he did not put too much in as he did not want to waste it if it was not the problem. So we take it back and charge him but he pays reluctantly. Only charged him £50... includes 80miles, 3 hrs pay for van driver and 5litres of petrol, and he thinks its too much as it should be warranty:001_rolleyes: Stay in the garden shed Spud!