GardenKit

The linkage plate is on the carb side of the engine and is secured by two torx screws at the top, in slotted holes. A little movement here makes a lot of difference to the revs. But as I said, be very careful to reset the choke. You will need tachometer to measure the revs. Maybe best to ask the dealer who supplied it.

I really do not think there is much difference in the burn temp. Sure, it is cooler rather than hotter, but not much. I only used Aspen as I no longer keep any petrol on the premises. Horrible smelly stuff:biggrin:

As Ashtree has said, you will likely find the revs are at around 2800. this is to comply with noise regs (the noise comes from the blade) The engines are quite happy at 3600, but I would hesitate to get them up that far. Around 3100 will make an incredible difference to performance and forward speed, but not be overly loud. To adjust the revs move the linkage plate forward on its mounting slots, but readjust the choke, or the cable may break.The lever needs to be at full extent when the choke is fully closed.

Right, so this issue of running without oil got me thinking. I have always assumed a failure would occur within about 10 minutes. It is one of those things I assumed but actually have no real knowledge of. So today I ran a test. I used an old, but perfectly good, Partner strummer. Drained out the 2 stroke Aspen an refilled with 4 stroke Aspen (no oil) Started it and taped the throttle up to full revs and stuck it outside. i expected it to fail in 10 minutes, but it ran fine until it stopped afar a massive 45 minutes. I expected to find it seized, but it had only run out of fuel, so I refilled the tank. It started again, but not easily, and ran for a further 13 minutes before gently dying. Once again i expected it to be seized, but it pulled over freely. It would not start though. So I pulled the pot off. The piston was scored, but hardly so. The bore was a little scored also, but not much. So 58 minutes at full revs on neat fuel before it stopped with hardly any damage. So how the hell do pistons get scored as badly as we usually see? (I do not really expect answers!)

Sounds like a problem with the decompressor valve. To test this theory replace the decompressor with a spark plug (same thread) and blank off the vacuum pipe that operates the decompessor. It will be more difficult to pull over but may cure the problem.

Sounds like a problem with the decompressor valve. To test this theory replace the decompressor with a spark plug (same thread) and blank off the vacuum pipe that operates the decompessor. It will be more difficult to pull over but may cure the problem.

thats what I thought, but he said he had been using it for an hour on the day it siezed! Of course, when I sold it originally it was filled with Aspen. This must have protected it long after it was used up. Marvellous stuff!

This piston is from a Tanaka brushcutter which came in last week. One pull on the cord revealed it had siezed, so the first thing was to check the petrol. "this is neat petrol sir, there's your cause" says I. "its a four stroke" says the customer, "I have only ever used straight petrol in it since I bought it 18 months ago" "sorry, sir. It does need oil or it will sieze, as indeed it has" He is an intelligent guy, clear and concise, no memory isues. I have no reason to doubt his word that he has only used neat petrol. So, how the hell did it last 18months???? I would have expected 10 minutes tops. What a testament to the incredible quality of Tanaka.

The roller is chain driven, with a spring loaded tensioner. They do not slip, so that is not your problem. But the tension rollers and the sprockets do tend to get 'packed' with grass debris, and the chain may shed. Keep it all clean. You may need to 'dig' out the packed grass with a little screwdriver.

Yes, for most models. Model and serial number needed, for the tractor and for the deck, in order to identify. Visit JohnDeere Parts

Age makes no difference to the machine, just the operator. But wear and tear does make a difference. It could just be a worn or loose drive belt, if so this is the easiest and cheapest option. The internal clutch within the gearbox will wear and start to slip. It may be possible to adjust the cable to restore the drive, but if fully adjusted then the gearbox needs replacement, which is expensive. (it is possible to dissmantle the box and pack out the selector to give it a bit more life, but in my opinion its not worth the effort for the little extra life it gives) The roller is supported either side by ball bearings which tend to sieze. The movement you have could be a worn, but unseized bearing, in which case new bearings will remedy. BUT its most likely to be a siezed solid bearing, and the roller shaft will have rotated within the bearing and worn the shaft away. This requires a complete new roller and new bearings. (unless you have the skills and equipment to build up the shafts and machine back to size) Hope this helps.

Yes, i have things like that too. Do they really think we will take them seriously after 3 years? Funny you should mention the 3 years, as today I had a woman in with a Hayter Envoy electric mower. The bail bar (switch lever) would not hold the switch on. Apparently it had not been right since I serviced it in March 2011! But to be fair, it really looks like it has not been used for more than a few minute since I serviced it. It seems she became very ill in March 2011 and has only just got round to using the mower. So how do I deal with this? The switch would have been OK when it left my shop. And if it was not OK, then it was like it when it came in and it was not noticed (I am sure this is not the case) Either way, we do not cause problems like this. Maybe we did not fix it, but we did not cause it. Yet we take the blame anyway. Just for a quiet life. What fun we do have. Oh joy.

Echo's largest saw in the 2014 UK product range is the CS8002 at 80.7cc, generating 3.93kw of power. This power is slightly down on a 461, but power is not everything. It is torques that matter, but they are not stated. I believe the larger saws from Echo are available in some other countries.

I reckon I am easily taken for a mug. I had a customer on the phone today grumbling that the mower I serviced at the end of last year would not start. They said it was the first time they had tried to use it since service. Fair enough, if that is true then we will put it right, but it is strange as every mower goes out with a full tank of Aspen, just to avoid this sort of thing. So they bring it in this morning and the tank is full of petrol, not only that, but the underside of the mower is plastered with hardened mud and grass. Now, all my serviced mowers go out spotless, on top and underneath. So it has obviously been used with no problem, then refilled with pump fuel. As it happens the problem was not fuel but a failed ignition module. What gets me is that people obviously think I am stupid, why do they try to blame the service, and furthermore, do they really think I won't twig that it has been used? Why tell blatant lies? Rant over.

I store all my kit with Aspen. Never any problems then.

Agree, that model, and the next ones were ok. The post 2004 varispeed models are complete rubbish.

Be careful about buying a secondhand deck as most of the 6mm bolts which hold the inner throwplate to the outer deck will be seized and shear off. That mower is best part of 20 years old.

The skirt does serve a function, in that it acts as a secondline defence in stopping stones being thrown forwards, so maybe best to just plate it over. Simply done. As for sharpening, yes tickle it up with a grinder. Get an even angle of around 30 degrees and grind both sides evenly to preserve balance. When the ground edge has reached 13mm in from its original line the blade should be replaced. If the wings are worn at all sharp then the blade should also be replaced. Balance the blade before refitting

Possible, but I do not think so. Both are for Mitox carbs which are in fact genuine Walbro. One of the Pacmans is for hedgetrimmers, whilst the other is for brushcutters. The D shape is for walbros as well. And, for Spuds benefit, all 3 of these are around a fiver each.

I really have no idea. I just have the one with the longer shaft. It has fitted all the 'pacman' types so far.

So how does that work?

nah, just a few more holes in the tool bench!

Invest in all 4 of these, you will never regret it.

Aahh! The smell of EP gear oil. Since leaving the macho world ag engineering in favour of the sissy world of garden machinery I find that there are 5 smells I certainly do not miss. EP gear oil. Diesel fumes. Silage effluent. Pigs All forms of stuff that animals produce as waste. Now the only smell that really gets up my nose is pump petrol, especially that really old, thick, stuff.

Seriously, you need one. They push onto the screw and stay there, even when the saw is jumping around on the bench. Makes tuning so much easier. Just be careful pulling the starter string thing when the screwdriver is poking out the side. Don't know why you lot are so tight:biggrin: