GardenKit

Thats right Stubby, its a Royal 46. The same mower was sold as a Partner in yellow. Typical Electrolux 'domestic' build quality with plastic deck. Watch out for cracks in the plastic deck and for loose engine mounts, thats not loose bolts, but worn bushing and holes. The pictured one has the front cover plate missing, which does not matter, and the belt cover missing which does matter under HSE.

Dont give much for it. They are pretty poor.

No, not yet. But I have seen one and it looks a fair bit of kit.

To be the fair, the echo is a chipper/shredder whereas the Eliet is a shredder, which is what makes it so good for general waste timber disposal. It will handle copious amounts of leaf and will even take stoney stuff with minimal damage to the blades. I have sold several and the customers just love them.

Know what you mean. And those carbs can be a pain to get back together properly sometimes I find. I serviced an MTD 603 yesterday, including cleaning the carb bowl. Must admit I did it with the bonnet side panel in place which is not the best practice. Came in this morning to find a wet patch under the exhaust, and yes, sure enough the fuel has gone from the tank into the pot (and sump). happy days

Yes Eddie, they really do not realise the sales opportunity they are missing. Customers just love the stuff once they have tried it and just keep coming back for more. The price is only an issue when they buy the first can, after that they will happily pay. All our over the counter sales are at the full RRP and nobody moans. Customers are happy because their kit starts more easily and consistently. It runs cleaner and is less smelly. We are happy because servicing machine run on Aspen is an absolute doddle. No more carbs to clean or fuel lines to replace. Wish I had started selling it years before I did.

Hi Josh The current price for the 2T version is £18.98 inc vat per 5litre can. This is the actual current RRP published by AngloAmerican. I have sent you a PM with volume discounts. Barrie.

Glad you have it sorted Neil, its always a pain when you get last minute problems.

We just broke our record!!! Recieved a full pallet on Monday. Ordered another today!! The stuff is flying out the door.

Viking longboats were made of untreated wood, as were the boats of the Armada from which many half timbered houses were made hundreds of years ago. Smuggled brandy kegs from France were treated with some kind of alchohol I believe. Viva la France.

What he said, almost. A dicky solenoid usually, but not always gives a very slight click when power is applied to the little wire. If you get that click, but no start, you can be pretty sure its the solenoid and forget the tests. If you want to prove the solenoid you can run a live wire from the battery direct to the small power terminal, but make sure everything is in neutral first, and disconnect the spark plug. And, as Eddie says, the wrong belt can cause your issues, or the old belt may have been severely overheated and is grabbing. Or the deck could be fitted wrongly.

I do not undestand the dealers who say Aspen will not sell. We are only a very small family business, with most of our custom within 6 miles, yet we sell a pallet of Aspen every 2-3 weeks throughout the year. It is definately worth our while. I am happy to speak to any prospective dealer (as one dealer to another) if they are in any doubt as to the contribution Aspen can make to their business.

pin diameter pitch pin length roller width

very possibly, but I would not know which one fits it without the chain in front of me!

Hi Neil. Its frustrating isnt it? Its all down to emission regulations with manufacturers bringing existing engines down by leaning them out. Bring back the polluters! I find they usually perform smoothly when warm, but have had the odd one that does not. I have had some success in fitting jet P/N 699733 in that engine as per Briggs bulletin CSB-1006.

That is the correct part number for the bolt. The RRP is £1.72 plus vat each.

Haha, you never forget do you Steve? To be honest, the damage in mine was more severe, with actual 'pin shaped' depressions. It did rattle well though.

Check the air filter retainer ' twist lock' screw. You may find some of it is missing.

I love this thread:biggrin:

Haha, we never finished the chat on that 357XP, Steve. The thing would start and run seemingly OK for about 5 minutes then go all to pot. The compression was 130 to start and dropped to around 110 when hot. It had a brand new P&P (aftermarket) fitted by person or persons unknown before going into the auction where my guy bought it on a whim for £120. The trouble is with this sort of thing, that you really have to start all over and investigate every aspect, which, as you know, takes time (and time is money) When the guy realised he could face quite a bill, he decided to take it back and collected it today to put on 'the bay' in order to recoup whatever he can. I don't know about the MS200 ( In just quoted some random times, all in excess of 15 minutes), but as the time is for pot replacement and subsequent test, I guess it is tank off.

Only just read this thread, its certainly interesting. To the OP, beware of just whacking on a piston and pot as has been suggested. Unless you find the cause of the failure beyond any doubt then you risk a repeat of the problem. Can pistons and pots be changed in 15 minutes? Anything is possible I suppose but do not take this as the norm. I have certainly never got anywhere near that time, and all machines are different. Stihl, for example publish their repair times for all tasks. A P&P, inc pressure test, on am MS181 takes 120minutes, on 200T 60 minutes is allowed, whilst a 361 is given only 45 minutes. But these times are set by the factory on brand new saws. The diagnosis and cleaning prior to the work will take at least another hour on a saw in 'used' condition. And, is it worth trying to save a piston? In my opinion NO. But thats because, at dealer rates of around £50 per hour it will cost £300 in labour given Spuds realistic 6hr time scale. Add the parts cost to this and it easy to see why saws are so easily written off at a dealer. Far better IMO to fit a new (OE P&P) Fair enough for this written off saw to then be resurrected by someone of Spuds skills and labour rates. But as Spud says, the job does not stop with the P&P. A good technician is inevitable going to spot other issues that need fixing, or at the least they need to be pointed out to the customer. We would of course, prefer to fix all faults before returning the machine to avoid it being returned shortly. Also, as others have said, keep clear of aftermarket pots and pistons in general. If you are fitting it yourself and not costing your labour, or if you have a Billy Whiz doing it for 15 minutes pay, then it may be worth the risk, as you wont have much to lose. Hire shops fit aftermarket pots as they know that there is a reasonable chance that the machine will be incorrectly fuelled, so why trash another OE unit? Just trying to show the whole thing from another perspective.

I reckon you have the wrong belts. Like I said, get a set of OE belts. I am not an MTD dealer but do loads of the crappy things. I would love to use non genuine belts, but every time I tried to there has been a problem.

Its not a job for amateurs. it's not that it is difficult, but there is a bit of a knack, and it takes a time. It is easier to do than to explain though. Run the engine and engage the parking brake. Remove the deck. To do this you need to disengage the drive (i.e.slack belt) remove belt retainers and belt. Put the engagement lever down to lower the deck and move it rearwards. disconnect the brake cable then remove the left rear wheel. using a 4mm starter rope fed through the vents in the back plate as well as a 3ft lever, disengage the spring. (wear eye protection and be VERY careful. Take the deck off. Drain the oil and fuel, remove the battery and turn the machine on its side. The primary belt needs to be slackened by engaging the park brake whilst running, before switching off. Then remove the retainers round the front pulley. You should now be able to get the belt off the front pulley and wind it off the centre double pulley after removing the retainer pegs. Feed it over the cross shafts and out the front of mower. Next use a cord and lever to pull back the spring loaded pulley on the rear belt and remove the belt. Fit new belts in the reverse order. Make sure they are adjusted correctly or one will slip excessively on the end of the pedal travel. ( can't explain this) Use only genuine OE belts and always replace both, or you will do it all again in a few weeks. Still want to do it yourself? Maybe this explains why I charge £50 extra labour on a service to do this, or £100 labour just to do this. MTD Lawnflite machines are, IMO abysmal.

You really do not want to use a Steel disc on an FS55. You WILL kill it. The gearbox is not up to it, and as Doobin said, the flexi drive shaft will break. The FS55 is a lght duty, domestic machine.

Indeed, although said on its own it sounds like a swearword! 8mm OD, 5MM ID. Oregon part 07-260 at around £22 per 2ft roll, from which you could cut around 300 huskie impulse tube worth around £1500. Not many small engine repairers would carry that size of fuel line in stock though. I will still stick with the genuine part though, even though it splits with age. No guarantee that the oregon stuff will not harden that close to the pot.