GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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Its a Lawnflite strimmer with a kawasaki motor Tank cap assy paret number 723530 at £11.03 plus vat. PM me
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How many more times, Steve? Buy the bloody tool:biggrin:
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I had one like this that fooled me into thinking it was a dropped valve. But what had happened was that the clutch drum bearing had failed. One of the balls from the bearing had found its way round the back of the flywheel where the magnet had pulled it into a little hole in the flywheel, but it stuck out far enough to jam the flywheel against the block casting and stop full rotation. Worth a look.
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Does anyone use easystart or is it still frowned upon
GardenKit replied to predator's topic in General chat
I often give non starter saws etc, just a whiff of carb cleaner. If they fire then it proves the ignition system is good. I have done that for several decades and no harm has come from it yet, and none have yet been admitted to The Priory to cure an addiction. -
Not an MS200, but here is a vid I did on a general recoil rewind. It may help.
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jdparts.deere.com everything you need to know just type R47RKB in the search box
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Sorry Neil, no help from me. I don't see many of the newer Huskies, bit strange really, being close to R&T. I did take one in PX a year or two back. It looked good (from a distance) but I thought the build quality was fairly poor. I have a feeling there was a mod on the engagement cable, but cannot find any spec on it. Maybe worth phoning Wincanton?
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But not as expensive as a crankcase. Its the ethanol content of the petrol that causes the decomposition of plastics and alloys. Stabilsers make some wide claims, but basically they are anti oxidants, they do not remove ethanol.
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Nice size workshop that Rich, takes me back to my Ag Engineering days. Could do with a bit of a tidy up though:001_smile:
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I have heard this said a few times. I wonder if this is actually true? Or is it scaremongering by some dealers? I have read the operating instructions for the Autotune Diagnostic Tool, and am amazed by what it can tell you, but I can see no mention of any sensor, or fault code reading associated with the type of oil used. I am keen to find out more about the diagnostic tool before I invest, so if any has one/uses one please tell us how you get on with it.
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Far better to use Aspen in a saw that gets used as seldom as thst one.
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Yup, plenty of fresh air. I get about one a week brought in because it wont start, that proves to be flooded. Usually Stihl MS 180 types. Got one started this way last month, told the customer it needed a bit more work because it would not tick over, but he wanted to use it straight away. "Will I be able to start it" he asks "Possibly, but it needs a little work" "I'll do the job and bring it back later" he says. "Can you wind up the tickover and start it?" "Leave it running and I will take it home in the boot and use it straight away" He was offended when I hit the stop switch before handing it back!
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The thing with a flooded 2stroke is that it does not just dry out like a 4stroke Sure, the fuel in the combustion chamber evaporates slowly, but it leaves behind an oil residue. So you clean the plug and blow out the pot, but then you pull it over again and it pulls through more petrol from the flooded crankcase. This is very rich in oil too, so it oils the plug straight up. You may need to clean the plug several times. These things can stay flooded for days after the first failed start. Keep the choke off, open the throttle and keep pulling for all you are worth. Eventually it will cough once, then twice, then three times. Then it might run and chuck out clouds of smoke. Keep it going until the exhaust is clear and the engine note is sweet.
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Indeed he is!
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Do not overlook Tanaka. I service all sorts, but Tanaka are my firm favourite.
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I have never needed a carb rebuild kit. Just dismantle it and clean it in a US cleaner. If this does not work, replace the carb. They are finicky things.
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It is now an industry code of practice, but that aside, I do not see how he can differentiate between 'Pro' and 'Non pro' quality top handle saws. He either abides by the code or not, in my book. OK, so it could be that Stihl insist and Kung Po do not.
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Let us hope you are right scotspine, but adhering to the guidelines will not hurt.
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Got to be a record for me. Bought it on Thursday evening, sold it this morning:thumbup:
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He is wrong. He should see a ticket for ANY top handle. No ticket = No sale. But of course there are plenty who break the rules. They will help to bring in the ban.
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So why not just have a CS38 rear handle Mitox instead? More power, same price, no tickets needed.
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Fair point.
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Self regulation is the key to not having enforced legislation. This means that ALL sellers of top handles would only sell to qualified users after seeing their card and copying it to attach to their records. This would also mean that all buyers would respect the request from the dealer for the proof of qualification. It would also mean that ALL users use the saw only as it is intended to be used. Unfortuneately there a rogue dealers and rogue users, who 'bend the rules' so I am afraid that the minority may spoil it all for everyone in time.
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But of course, because that is sound business sense:001_rolleyes:
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Its just electric raise an lower for height of cut, rather than the manual alternative.
