GardenKit

Haha, at last, a place to moan. Where everybody else is in the same boat, but nobody really cares about the others in the boat. My knee is giving me hell. Keeps falling in and out of joint with big clicks and clunks. Don't really want a new knee yet, I am only 58.

I have known flywheels to have weak magnets, and they all started and ran until they did not. I dont think its a case of suddenly dying, but rather that they have just reached too low a level. They should hold a small 4" flat blade screwdriver. Another thought. Are you using a resistor plug? If so try a non resistor, they will spark at a lower voltage.

Sounds like a good find! I am not much help on Kubotas though, the ones I have come across have all been pretty good except for drive shaft spline wear, engine mounts and, of course, deck rust.

Fair enough. Are the flywheel magnets strong?

As a matter of interest, how are you testing for a spark? Are you quite sure you do not have one. If the coil is good and the flywheel magnets are strong you should have a spark. It is really quite a simple system. Your problem may be elsewhere, such as valves.

Sure, valves should only change slowly, so unlikely to be the problem unless something has come loose. Worth checking anyway. With regard to carbon, yes it does build up slowly, but will give the symptons you have. It is most likely to be in the exhaust rather than the port with a four stroke. These carbon build ups can break free and float around in the exhaust where the flow of gases moves them to the outlet where they jam until the revs drop and they fall free, only to move again when the revs increase. Take the exhaust off and give it a shake, you may hear a rattle and lumps may drop out. You could also run the machine without the exhaust to see if there is a difference, but wear some ear defenders and goggles.

Haha, I like that. You watch too much television mike.

Snap On was mentioned a few days ago on this thread. I 'invested' in some torx drivers from Snap On a couple of years ago as I was wearing out the likes of Draper and Halfords in a couple of years. The Snap On have been every bit as poor, despite being about 4 times the cost, and yesterday the T8 just sheared off! (this was about the only one which has not worn out, as it has only been used a very few times) Never again. Facom only from now on.

I have to admit the ones I sell are a bit more expensive at just under £20, but they are proven quality. They are universal mount (horizontal or vertical) and are available in 1 terminal, or 2terminal form. (thats the small terminals for the little wire, or wires) Make sure you know which before ordering from wherever you decide. Most dealers will stock similar.

The ignition switch does not click. If you are getting a single click when you turn the key, then this click will be coming from the solenoid and is a very common problem. Verify that the click is from the solenoid, firstly locate it, then touch it (if you can reach it) and you will feel it click as well as hear it. This proves that power from the switch is reaching the solenoid but the internal magnet is not pulling the contacts together inside to join the two big wires. If it does click, then there is your problem, look no further. Bang a new solenoid on and away you go. If you are very careful you can prove that the solenoid is at fault by bridging the two large terminals with a spanner or similar. Do this firmly and don't jump when there are a few sparks, also make sure the machine is in gear and the ignition OFF. The engine should crank but not start. No, wait. Do not do the above test as it can be very dangerous and should not be conducted by any other than a well trained fool like me.

I service over a thousand engines a year, but seldom see a Kohler. But the few I have come across have not impressed me, although in fairness the only real problems I have had are on the Command series. I would certainly not want to sell a machine with a kohler engine on it. My preference of engine on pedestrian mowers would be:- 1st Honda GX series, but these are only fitted to top notch machines such as the Kaaz 2nd Kawasaki 3rd Briggs 4th Honda GC 5th GGP (chinese with quality) 6th Kohler On ride ons and grinders etc I would rate a Briggs Vanguard over any other, followed Kawasaki, then Honda GX. I dont rate the Kohler or the Honda GC series. But thats just me, others may (and will) disagree.

Time for a new one methinks Mike. Any stock solenoid will do the job. You just need to know if it is a one wire, or two wire type. (i.e, just a single supply wire from the switch, or one earthed through the safety switches as well)

This link may help, Mike.[/url]http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en/support/faqs/electrical-schematic_wiring-diagrams

At last! The correct answer.

So don't get carried away looking for major problems, just revisit the things you have done, one by one. It will not be anything to do with the oil and filter, so leave that alone. If you pressure washed the tank then you may well have some water pass into the filters, so your idea of changing them again could be a sound first step, but check the old ones for water, it may be a clue. My bet is that you have somehow let a small amount of air creep in somewhere. As all the filters and pipes are under vacuum it will be difficult to find whilst running, but may just leak whilst stopped, but to find a diesel leak the pipes will have to be really clean. You could try cleaning the pipes and unions with carb cleaner whilst its running. Then, when it stops you may see the wetness of leaking diesel somewhere.

I had a large amount of PB's dating from the 1960's to present. I cashed them in last autumn when I needed the cash to 'bridge' a purchase. Then, when the cash was released from the 'bridge' I reinvested in a 'block' but the wins so far (OK, only 9months) have been roughly the same as before.

I too prefer 6 sided sockets over bi-hex, especially in the smaller sizes and on worn or rusted bolts. Impact sockets are without doubt very strong, even poor quality ones are good as they have so much steel. But they are very clumsy and do not always fit between bolt heads and flanges. (try getting a 19mm one on a stihl bar nut, or a 13mm on a 346XP) Thin walled sockets are the best, but they do need to be made well with high quality steel or they will split.

We get regular £50 prizes, but probably only just return around 1.5% each year. We did however have a good year about 8yrs ago with one prize of £5000 which was quite handy ( have not worked out what that did for the interest rate) Its more fun waiting for the envelope from Ernie than the monthly statement from Santander though. And you can get at your money quickly if you need it.

I have Halfords Pro in the car, just in case, although why I carry tools in the car these days is a mystery, have not used them for years. I have all sorts at work, mostly old 40yr old Draper, 30 yr old Facom and Britool. A few years ago I was replacing lost sockets with Halfords, just for convenience, but they have now all worn out or broken, so I only replace with Facom now. I know Halfords replace broken tools from their Pro range, but the point is they should not break. I have never broken my good ones, even in my Ag days when they had serious punishment. And Halfords stuff just does not 'feel' right to me. Just my opinion

In reality you will only use a few sizes from a socket set and if you buy a full set of a good make it will cost you many hundreds (1/2" drive) Usually 10, 13, 15, 17, 19 and 24mm will be the most used, so if you don't want to spend a fortune buy a Halfords Pro set and replace the above sizes with Facom (they are the best you can buy) If you know anyone with a Halfords trade card you will get a good discount on some of their tools. Also treat yourself to a good 18" knuckle bar and a good Facom or Britool ratchet. I would (and do) buy Facom but would not touch Snap On. And just because a tool has a lifetime warranty it does not make it good, it just means it will be replaced if it breaks (but not if it wears out)

Haha, I have just come in to work and looked this up, only to find its already done! Yes, that is the number for the cover, but it might be as well to also have the mulch blade 742-0760.

I personally do not think there is anything wrong, as long as the gun is used with some kind of understanding and 'feel' of threads and torques. I have been using them for 40 years so guess I understand them. In the wrong hands it could cause damage though. For instance, if the gun is used at full rattle on a chainsaw clutch the impact is felt not only on the clutch nut, but also on the flywheel. So the flywheel key could shear before the clutch loosens. This may not be noticed until the saw will not start after replacing the clutch. I have never had this happen, but I believe it has happened to others. Stihl do however state in their service manuals never to use impact guns anywhere on their machinery

:001_rolleyes:

Haha, you are not wrong, but most of my customerss only send it in for a service because the cord has run out!

I charge £50 inc vat and do pretty much the same as Wefixit. Its worth mentioning that we also remove the 2 line head (if fitted) and clean out between it and the gearbox. Remove all old cord and rewind with new (as long as the head is in good order) I am sure wefixit do that too.