GardenKit

I found a website about Cornish grey seals which asks for sightings to be reported so I sent the pics. Turns out she is indeed a she and one they hold quieten dearly. She has been seen on Looe Island and also St Ives in recent years, but not seen very often.

Sorry, I don't think I have ever laid hands on one. Would imagine that they are pretty good though, being Japaneesy.

Wow! thats a bit strong, you are obviously not happy with yours. I have sold hundreds of the things and only ever had one reported breakage which the owner admitted was his own clumsy fault, and I did chip the top of one of my workshop ones when I dropped it off the bench. No pressure release is needed whilst filling, but in hot weather it pays to push the plunger down first to 'burp' the can, or you may get sprayed! My other workshop on is 3 years old and has been used many thousands of times and still perfect.

That is the best post I have seen for a while:biggrin:

Ahh, what budget did you have in mind?

Stickers for cans are great and your dealer may be able to supply, but why not simply use a Fillpartner on the clearly marked Aspen can rather than decanting?

I guess you are meaning a Murray Ride On mower Josh. As you said, they are cheap but OK. Poorly engineered, but somehow they keep going. Its difficult to advise on a choice of mower, as it depends on your budget and the revenue from cutting an acre every two weeks is not going to justify much. Many ride ons simply do not collect well, especially if driven a little too fast and will be very frustrating in a commercial application. Rather than list every option with its plus and minus points, its probably best for you to find a prospective purchase and then ask for comments on its suitability here before you buy. Or are you thinking new?

You could try disconnecting the stop wires from the coil Andy. I had one years ago that shorted from one of the worn wires when the machine reached a cetain vibration. It ran fine disconnected, so proved the wires were at fault. Obviously I must make the patronising disclaimer that you should not in fact use a machine with the wires disconected:biggrin:

My money would be on the flywheel and coil too. But it could be as simple as the spark plug, so I would change that first. It could also be the coil breaking down internally. Unless the guy who looked at is right and its knackered.

Far too pretty to be a he:biggrin: Besides which you would not have viewed the thread if I had said 'he'.

She was on the Cannis rock, about half a mile off the Gribbin Head near Fowey in South East Cornwall.

Haha, the power of advertising:001_smile:

Took the boat out today and found this lady sunbathing. Wish I had taken the SLR and zoom lens.

I honestly do not know much about them and how they work, except for what I read on the link. I do know my daughter had quite high repair costs on her 2010 Mondeo DPF recently and I really do not need the hastle.

If you want it to get away at a junction and join the flow, it needs to be booted and to keep a reasonable pace uphill when loaded, you have to keep it in the torque band at around 4000rpm. But as I said, that engine with its variable valve timing just loves to be worked. DPF (diesel particulate filter) issues effect most diesel engine fitted to cars since around 2005. They simply do not like low mileage use and the DPF clogs with soot, needing regeneration when the light comes on. This involves a thrash up the motorway for 20 minutes or so, in a lowish gear and highish revs. diesel particulate filter (dpf) | AA During the winter I tend to work 7days a week and never go anywhere in the car as I use my van. My wife drives to work and back, a distance of 1 mile each way, and so for 4or 5months the engine never gets worked. Modern diesels with DPF's are just not suited to this kind of treatment, hence the decision to go petrol. Working vehicles are fine with diesel.

I have just bought a CRV i-vtec (petrol) on an 11 plate. I changed from an 05 Jeep cherokee 2.8ltd (diesel) The CRV is way roomier than the Jeep and much more comfortable and much quieter, as you would expect from a petrol. Its also much easier to drive, the Jeep had a very heavy clutch which played havoc with my damaged knee in traffic. I miss the 'grunt' of the Jeep though. You certainly have to 'work' the Honda 2.0litre petrol to get any sort of performance from this 1.6 tonne vehicle, but it does not mind revving to 7000. I believe the diesel is much torquier than the petrol but I did not want the DPF issues associated with the newer diesels. All in all I am happy with the 'v' but not inspired. Its a bit of a reliable bore, and a thirsty one at that, returning on average 29mpg so far. But as we do a low annual mileage The fuel consumption does not worry me too much.

Fair enough, ported saws are beyond my experience, so I bow out, gracefully I hope.

But it should do that completely adequately at 50:1, but without leaving unused residues.

Need more?

You will just find that the saw runs poorly when the mix is changed. Its not at all unusual to have to retune when the mix is changed. Before I switched to using Aspen in my servicing I always used a 50:1 with Rock oil. It was not unusual to send a machine back to the customer where it would work fine until my petrol ran out and the customer refilled with his own. He would then bring it back and complain, but a quick retune to his mix was all that was required. It could be that his oil ratio was too strong, his oil too poor a quality or even that he was using a different brand of petrol. (tesco is one of the worst culprits) Its just the same now with Aspen, they run fine when they leave but just occasionally need retuning to the customers mix if he swaps back to petrol But I really can't see the purpose in using a 40 or 45:1 mix unless using rubbish oil. It just drops the power and carbons up the exhaust and plug. Dirty,oily engines are always the result of too much oil in the mix. Most main brand oils marked at 50:1 have been formulated and tested to run at up to 80:1 so 50:1 is already ultra safe, no need for further concentration. No amount of extra oil will protect a saw from the temperatures of lean running.

I sort of agree with you Spud. In theory the more oil you add to a mix, the less petrol there is in the finished volume. So this mix combines with the same amount of air, and is, beyond any dispute, a leaner mix. Whether this amount of 'leanness' is sufficient to cause overheating and subsequent siezure is probably unlikley. It is more likely to need a slight carb adjustment to get the low speed idle and pick up correct. I don't believe that any amount of extra oil can prevent a true 'lean sieze' though. Just my thoughts.

Crikey, this stuff sells faster every week. For the first time in 3 years we have nearly sold out. A new palletfull came last week, and another is on order, but we have only 4 cans left of Aspen 2T until it arrives on Monday.

And, of course, run on Aspen!

Or use a cable tie.

No real alternative Mike, as the assembly controls 2 function. All parts are available, but no complete assembly. What do I think of them?.......Not much. Poor build quality, cumbersome, and very prone to early rusting through of the deck (poor steel)