GardenKit

I reckon maybe the oil pump drive arm is not in the little notch in the clutch drum. This will tilt the drum a little.

Aww, shucks fellas:blushing: Packed and waiting for posty in the morning Andrew:thumbup1:

The generator is only fitted to heated handle models, and the flywheel is a different part to accept the generator. The standard 361 uses flywheel 1135 400 1203 which retails at £71.59 plus vat. The key is cast into the aluminium and is used solely to position the flywheel for timing purposes, the flywheel is driven purely by the locking effect of the tapers. Ensure that there is absolutely no oil or grease on the tapers before torqueing up the retaining nut. By chance, I have a brand new flywheel in stock. I bought it for a job which then never got done, so it just sits on the shelf. £50 would buy it, including postage.

About 20 years ago a mechanic workmate of mine was getting firewood, in his own time, from the left over timber of a felled woodland (with permission) He had no PPE apart from a chainsaw helmet and his workshop external steel toecaps. His saw contacted his foot. Had it not been for his steel caps he may have cut straight down between his toes, but the chain skidded around the dome of the steel cap before biting into the soft leather behind the cap and cutting across his foot severing the tendons of several toes. The result was several months off work. Steel toecaps are great at protecting the toes, rubbish for anything else.

It might just be best to refrain from writing your own site Jon:big grin: Google may well not recognise your Zummerseteze key words. Oh, and pictures are quite handy on a website, but as you admit, they are not your strong point. My site now has several hundred pages, and still growing, but its flipping hard graft.

Hi Jimbob You are absolutely right, the tensioner arm has had a whack. The arm and pulley should be in line with the other pulleys and the belt run. The flat idler sits on the flat back of the belt to the left side of the mower and applies tension to the belt pushing it inwards. The spring attaches almost as you have it but will be below the steering chain when the arm is bent back down. The photos should show it, but this model has a steering cable rather than chain

Thanks for replying to Nepia's question Eddie, I missed reading the question about Aspen:001_rolleyes: (I must be slipping!!) And I think you are right, Aspen's absence of aromatic hydrocarbons and ethanol (both volatile solvents) keep it a more stable product which maintains its vapour pressure across a wider temperature range making it far less susceptible to vaporisation and fuel lock than standard petrol. The advantages of Aspen do, of course, come at a price, but a saw which wont start in the heat earns no money at all. Barrie

And yet, Stihl recommend a piston stop on their saws and say never to use an impact wrench. I must admit though that I never use a stop, sometimes use the starter cord method and invariably use an impact gun. But NEVER use a piston stop of any sort and an impact gun together.

The " vapor pressure" of petrol is adjusted at the production facilities to suit the market climate (average). For instance in the UK we have loosely 'winter grade' and 'summer grade' petrol. The winter fuel vaporises more easily, but if it was used on the first hot spring day then it would vaporise too easily, causing vapor lock in the fuel pipes. In the same way, fuel blended for the average summer temp in the UK will vapori lock in heat wave temperatures. I guess the Australian fuel will be blended to suit their average seasonal temps too,

DR has to the best IMO Beau, it's not just build quality but also design that matters. Some of the 'pretenders' have the wrong balance and too small a 'ball'. This results in the ball constantly getting snagged in ruts. The DR floats well.

Or it could just be too dry. You will get the best out of any cord if it's stored in water.

We use a Colorado on the river Otter, and have used it in Fowey too. It's remarkably tough and has had some serious scrapes on the shallow fast sections of the Otter without even a mark yet alone a puncture. Directional stability is poor, and it catches the wind, so fine if you don't need to get anywhere fast, but be careful at sea. Wind and tide could beat you. Good for downstream fun and still water though. Very roomy and stable

Good to hear Stubby, I think most people with real experience of using Aspen would agree.

ADW, I am frankly amazed that an engineer such as yourself does not see the negative effects of pump fuel on a daily basis, although I suppose I would have said the same as you until around 4 years ago because I was simply ignorant of the deficiencies in pump fuel and the effects it was having on motors. I just got on and fixed them and thought nothing of it. But then, when I realised that around 80% of engine problems are fuel related I started looking for a way to overcome the problems. I agree with you that engines will run quite well on pump fuel with no detriment, as long as that fuel is fresh and contains minimal ethanol. But the trouble is that pump fuel does not stay fresh, and sadly it does contain ethanol, sometimes in high percentages. This does cause damage to engines as all manufacturers keep telling us. Its a problem that causes concern to engine manufactures and many state not to use fuel over 30 days old. The problems are well documented. I too see inside plenty of engines running on pump fuel, but usually the only reason for seeing inside is when they have failed. I seldom see inside one on Aspen as they simply very seldom fail, but I have taken the odd one down in my never ending quest to further my knowledge on the product and the difference between one run on Aspen and one on petrol is incredible. I short, its not 'brainwashing' but education for those who want to learn, and its not hype, its fact. But its a free world, if you don't want to use Aspen , or recommend it to your customers then thats fine by me, I respect that, but please do not knock what you do not understand. But the happy faces and never ending positive comments from my returning customers are sufficient to tell me that Aspen, despite the price, has an important place in this industry, and a very positive future.

Mitox saws are made in China but are specified to have a genuine Walbro carburettor. The carb may be made in China but by Walbro, not copied or under licence. This, along with the Oregon bar and chain are used as sales aids. Mitox brush cutters however are not advertised as having a genuine carb and they do in fact have a Chinese copy.

I agree on the cost, although I have many many customers who would use nothing else now, despite the cost. Totally disagree on the reduced power though. It is after all a purer product than petrol and as it has no double bonded hydrocarbons it can burn more readily and produce a more consistent flame front. The result is marginally more power as 90% of my customers will agree. Much better starting too. What do you base the decreased power on?

You can do it Rusty!! I charge a lot of money to do this for those who can't or won't, but its really not rocket science. Give it a go, but do clean the carb and do fit new diaphragms. i never reassemble a carb with old bits, but its easy when you carry about 100 or so carb kits in stock! Its a bit more awkward when you have to source your spares first.

You sure that's not the stage at Glastonbury reflecting off low cloud Jon?

Dead easy to strip it, just undo the 4 screws holding it together. As Spud says, take pics so you know how to reassemble. Clean the gauze, it will be blocked with filter felt, blow down every hole with carb cleaner, reassemble with new diaphragms and stick it back together. If it is as I suspect, ethanol damage to the filter, then it should run after refitting without the need to move the high speed screw very much. It's about 10 minutes work start to finish.

I should have mentioned that these machines, being Chinese, have one or two issues. One is that the ethanol in fuel degraded the fuel filters on the earlier machines. The degraded felt travelled up the fuel pipe and clogged the internal gauze, causing your symptoms. I would clean the carb and replace the fuel filter before any tuning, or you will just be compensating. The fuel pipes and carb diaphragms should be done at the same time, the will likely be crazed. Oh, and the tank grommet is very dodgy too, almost certainly perished and leaking. Replace it. The new materials are better.

Oh! do I have to? Not particularly fond of them myself:001_rolleyes:

Me too! The 281MT is a multitool!

This is a rotary barrel type carb, a copy of the Walbro WYL. But unlike most WYL carbs this one does have a High Speed screw that looks unlike any other. It is set at a slight angle in the carb body and is easy to miss, even though quite large and is adjusted with a 'pacman' adjuster.

I would have thought that if its running 'super rich' then you will need to turn it clockwise to lean it up. We are talking about the high speed screw here, so its unlikely to stall whichever way you turn it. So with it started, turn it in a little and see if the engine picks up , then when its reving keep turning in until the revs peak, then out (anticlockwise) until the revs start to drop off and a little fourstroking can be heard, the turn very gently in (clockwise) until the fourstroking just disappears. Make sure you have full length of 2,4 cord in the head before you try this, as that is the required 'load' It could be that your low speed (idle) mix needs tweaking too, to get a pickup from idle. By the way, it might be better to run it on 50:1 of a good quality semi synthetic to avoid the oily plug issues.

The head will screw off (left hand thread) and an appropriate size bump feed head with a M10x1 LH thread will screw on.