GardenKit

Just what I have always been wary of Bill, and its what Briggs warn us about after all. How far was it bent? Any pics of the break? So did you borrow the use of straightener to evaluate before buying, as you said you wont be buying?

I could not agree more. Overall reliability is not just based on original build quality, but also subsequent service. A good dealer looks after you, as well as the machine.

That is a very good video. I am not a fan of Toro generally but that's impressive.

After reading this thread I have been forced to close my business, as I have never received training on making chains. I like to do things properly and stay within the law. Or..... maybe grandfather rights apply??

Mulching is brilliant, but as said above, it is no good for fortnightly cuts on most grass types. Of course, it depends on the finish you desire. A homeowner wanting a perfect lawn with no grass residue in sight can easily achieve that with the right machine, but will have to cut maybe twice a week in peak growth season. If its just a case of cutting the grass with an average finish, and if a little residue is acceptable then you can cut less frequently. Mulching mowers also vary considerably in their ability to mulch the grass. Generally the American ones such as Toro are pretty poor, being designed for their grass, whereas the Scandinavian designed Stiga is by far the best for our grass types. The JD JS63V is also very good. Mulching is often judged wrongly, merely because someone has seen the result of an incorrect machine wrongly used.

Nice idea, but to be honest a replacement engine wont be much good if the problem is fuel or ignition related. The replacement engines come as 'short' units. And, they all seem to be Chinese. Also the dealer has been slated for only offering £50, but I reckon that's a very generous offer for a non running cheapy saw. By the time he has chucked an hours work at it and a few bits it could stand him in at more than the trade cost of a new saw in a box.

I do remember that we did rather a lot of front axle changes under warranty! But, on the other hand many had no problem at all.

Ha, memories! I used to sell the TH62's in the late 90's. I always thought they were great, we had very little trouble from them.

If the oil is splattered it would indicate that it is being thrown, so I would guess the crank seal, then being thrown by the pulley or flywheel. Other leaks should just run down from their origin, just spreading along horizontal lips etc. Get the motor clean and degreased with some Jizer, then run it and watch.

Its OK guys, I just checked in! Agi, it is fairly common to experience the flat spot that you mention. It may well be due to blocked transitional jets in the idle circuit. Carbs generally have 2 fuel circuits:- When the throttle butterfly is open there is a high pressure area before the venturi, this pressure pushes down on the fuel and forces it up through the main jet into the ventori. It gets mixed with air on the way to form a vapour. On modern carbs it is not usual to have any adjustment on this jet. But when the butterfly is closed to slow the engine down the pressure drops shutting off the fuel. Now another circuit called the idle circuit comes into play. The low pressure area at the tip of the butterfly has a small drilling allowing a small amount of fuel to be pulled out to allow idle. This circuit did have a mixture screw until very recent changes to carbs, so yours will have it. There are also a couple of transitional drillings on the idle circuit before the mixture screw which allow a little fuel through to ease the transition between the idle jet operating and the main jet taking over. These may be blocked on you carb and a deep clean could be needed. But, it may help to tune the idle ciruit first. The screw will be found just above the bowl flange on the left of the carb as you view it from the nearside front wheel area. The screw may originally have had a plastic limiter cap. if its still there it may be best to remove it. You will then see a slotted head screw, or just a splined screw head with a spring beneath. The splines were to hold the plastic limiter, you can turn the screw with grips. With the air filter clean, fresh fuel and a clean plug, you can run the engine at tickover. Adjust the tickover speed using the cross headed screw just above and slightly right of the mixture screw. Try to get a nice even tickover, not too fast and not too slow. Then adjust the mixture screw, very slowly. Firstly screw it in. If the engine speed picks up then keep turning until the revs start to drop (lean drop off point) Then turn it out until the revs rise, and then start to drop off and get lumpy (rich drop off point) Remember the amount you have turned the screw between both points, then turn the screw in until the revs start to rise and even out nicely. (slightly rich rather than slightly lean) Adjust the slow speed idle screw (the cross headed one) to get a nice idle speed. You dont want it too fast but the higher it is, the less you will notice the 'flat spot' effect. If the mixture screw makes no difference at all then the idle circuit is blocked and will need cleaning. You may be able to do this by removing the screw and squirting some carb cleaner in, but more than likely it will need an ultrasonic clean. Hope this helps. Barrie

oops, forgot the picture of the small stuff!

At this time of year I find myself doing Sundays, just to keep up. I usually catch up on ride ons, but this week I am fairly up to date with all but two of these done, or waiting for spares. So today I need to tackle this small stuff, some of which has been here just a little too long.

I bought on of these a few years ago and used it with some success. Some of the larger diameter Briggs cranks can be a bit difficult to get right though. I have given up doing them now though for several reasons:- It takes a while to take the engine off, straighten it, and put it back on. It does not take much longer to fit a new crank. I will guarantee a repair with a new crank, but will offer no guarantee on a straighten. Briggs state firmly that cranks should never be straightened. Its a job to know where the crank is bent, sometimes they can be bent just inside the lower bearing. This will not straighten properly and will result in lower bearing failure. I believe there is a chance of subsequent breakage after straightening. My insurance would take a dim view of me doing something that is condemned by Briggs, so in the event of an issue I could be left carrying the can, just because I did someone a favour with a cheap repair.

Eddy, the problem with some dealers not knowing what the restrictions are is that nobody tells us. This is because its not a LAW, only a code of practice, and that code is many years old now and has not been documented, or shared, well. Some distributors of TH saws do not even have the disclaimer in their literature But the HSE report on chainsaws says that the use of a top handled saw should be restricted to a trained operator, and I believe that to be covered by the CS39, so that is the one I ask for. Why do I ask for proof of training then, if its so vague? Because I am aware of the code and I believe it to be a good thing. It offers protection to untrained and unaware potential users, as well as protecting, to some extent, the business of the pro arborists. Consider the village idiot who buys a TH from someone who does not ask to see his CS39. He then uses his saw one handed, because he can, and it kicks back causing serious injury or death. We live in a society where we all want to blame someone, so the widow of the poor, dead, village idiot blames the seller, as he should have known better. Big court case, Big cost, Big payout, Insurance company declining to pay because seller flouted the code, Just not worth the risk IMO just to make £50 on the sale. As for dealers not understanding muffler mods or porting, well of course most don't. They don't need to, so it should not be held against them. Porting is a hobby subject, only fully understood by a very folk in the UK, and is not generally within the remit of a dealer unless he is also keen on the hobby. The type of person who uses a modded saw is unlikely to need the services of a dealer, and most dealers (myself included) would decline to work on such a machine anyway. Most dealers will understand their target market and have product knowledge to suit, but modded saws do not fall within that target.

This subject is a bit vague, I have been a small, independent dealer for 13 years, and sold saws for years before that. I have never had a definitive answer on this subject. I think Treewolf has it about summed up. It seems that a good few years ago the injury rate from Top Handles became a bit unacceptable and a total ban on the sales of them was on the cards. Apparently the major players introduced the 'voluntary regulation' that we understand to be 'legislation', and asked their dealers to support this 'code of conduct'. But I, for one, have sold Top handles and have never been contractually obliged by any of my suppliers. I buy the major two brands from wholesalers to the trade, and a couple of lesser brands direct. I do however follow the 'code' and see the CS39 which I copy and file with the proof of purchase, just in case. Its a good code and helps to keep injury down to a level that falls beneath the radar. I have never had a moan from any 'pro' user. They have their tickets and are proud of it. In general they would think less of me if I were also supplying the 'jack of all trades, trained for none' operator who was stealing their work and devaluing their service. So the only people who moan are the ones who cant be bothered to get their training, or don't think the rules should apply to them. The code protects the industry to some degree from cheap competition and also keeps the issue of a total ban at bay. I know its easy enough to get a Top Handle from ebay, and from many dealers who do not follow the 'code'. And with the influx of so many Chinese models the market is being flooded, so before much longer the powers to be will be re-opening this can of worms. If they do and a ban ensues, then the industry will suffer a severe set back. So please don't argue against the code, its there for a good purpose.

If you want to mulch some of the time then forget a mower with a rear roller. They cannot mulch. You need a 4 wheeler with mulch plug. Or, just mulch all the time with something like a JS63V.

Not always!

These two (domestic owner) machines are in for service today.

R54 RKB Strong points:- Excellent engine, excellent body, excellent performance and collection. Weak points:- Handlebars can brake in heavy use involving upward or downward pressure. Fine for normal use. Changing the drive belt is a pig of a job, you will be lucky to do it in an hour. The front axles will break off if treated roughly. The transmission (gearbox) is adequate for domestic use, but failure will be had in commercial use. If used in wet conditions, make sure the rear roller is kept 'mud free' and regularly sprayed with WD or water will penetrate the bearings and 'sprags'. Replacement is costly. Avoid use on paved surfaces, the roller shells will break up. But it is a lovely mower, works well, looks good. My domestic customers love them. My commercial customers love using them, but hate the downtime and cost of repairs. For commercial use you cannot beat a Kaaz IMO.

The Stiga Villa in yesterdays work had a strange problem of a wildly jumping clutch pedal. They often jiggle a little, but this was A LOT! The cause was this little bit of gravel stuck in the pulley. Incredibly the belt and pulley were undamaged.

Taking the first one from the back of the line is easier Bob!

Just checked the figures and find that I have fully serviced 150 ride ons in the past 12 months, although I was surprised to find it was that few, seems like loads more! There have been many more through that have just been in for repair.

Indeed. Solid aluminium wheels with proper rubber tyres. And sealed precision ball bearings. It has a fantastic 'feel' to it when pushed, running smoothly and quietly over hard surfaces, rather than rattling along like so many others. Stiga is VERY under rated.

Try telling the customers that!

The 2015 model Stiga Pro 55 4SB