GardenKit

As you say, easy. 30 second job.

I'll bet you are glad you canceled now DRS, its chucking it down at this, normally sunny side of the moor. It must surely be worse on top.

This is a strange one. If adjustments are needed at all, it is usually to richen the L screw very slightly. i have never had any saw run richer, as yours seems to. Aspen has not changed in its makeup, so thats not your problem. As Aspen is very pure, and contains no solvents, it will not have harmed the saw, so changing back to petrol will put the saw right if the fuel is the problem. If the problem still exists when using petrol, then I think there must be something else amiss that has coincided with the change to Aspen. Keep us posted with the saws performance.

Very sorry to hear this news, Justin. i know just how it feels, I was cleared out twice. That feeling when you hear from the alarm company, then the sight of the open door when you get there. i hope your insurance company play fair. Good luck with your show.

Helicoil is the way to go, simple to use and much stronger than the original. All I ever use and reccomended by Stihl technical.

John Deere do, justly, have a great reputation for their mowers, but they did not get it from their JM range, which are made Murray. The R series as well as the JS and JX models are the quality end of the Deere range, and the ones which have earned them their reputation. Sanli may have the features, but unless they have the quality of JD (which IMO they dont) they may prove to be a liability. Sanli make saws too, would you consider one instead of a Stihl or Huskie?

If one cylinder was not getting fuel I would expect to find a blocked jet and a drop in both power and fuel consumption. Assuming that the jets are not blocked, because you have checked, and cleaned the carb, then I wonder if you have lost the spark to one cylinder (the wet one) This would cause the loss of power, and the increase in fuel use as the one good cylinder will have to work harder to keep the revs up and so the governor will be keeping the throttle open more. I think it will be as well to check the spark. Do this first by just using a spark tester. This will verify if there is a spark. Then you need to identify the fault. It could be a duff coil, but could also be a duff diode in the earthing loom. To test this, remove the engine cowl to expose the coils. Remove the earth wires from both coils and recheck the spark. If there is still no spark, the coil is duff, if there are sparks on both then the earthing loom needs replacing. Best of luck. Edit.Sorry to Simon, I was writing this while you were posting

The Oregon bar dresser works a treat, as long as the file is sharp and not clogged. Part number 111439e, check it out on one of the arbtalk advertiser sites.

I agree with Spud, a quick spray with carb cleaner to soften up the dirt, then a blast with the airline, from inside to out. Check that you have not blown a hole in it and dont worry at all about the colour. It does not need to be white. 30 secs max is all it needs to be efficiently clean.

Rich. There are two posibilities One. It is quite common for the Honda to suffer from a blocked fuel cap breather. Running with the cap a little slack will prove this. I think this is the least likely cause as it wont take 2 hours before it will restart. Two, and most likely is a coil which fails when it gets hot. Easily checked with a spark tester as soon as it fails. When it cools down it will start. This problem will get worse as time goes on until, in the not too distant future it will fail completely. Good luck, let us know what you find. Oh, it could be a plug, the Honda,s do like to eat plugs, but they usually start popping and banging rather than just stopping.

There is not one make that is much better than the others for vibration. Each manufacturer has some bad machines and some good machines in its range. If Low Vibe is your priority buying decision then download the vibration charts (google 'stihl vibration' etc). Compare the figures for your chosen engine size. Some brands have both 'std' and 'low vibe' models for the same 'cc'. Ensure you compare with the same cutting method, i.e nylon, or metal blade. Metal blades run smoother than nylon. Generally the larger machines run smoother than the small machines, so you may need to aim larger than the FS90.

Right, just tried Tapatalk, managed to post photos from 'camera roll' (twice!) Dont like Tapatalk though, its not as restfull and easy to navigate as the normal Arbtalk.

sorry, dont know how I sent duplicate pics:confused1:

Had a John Deere JX63 mower on the bench today. It had apparently hit a 'small stone', and now would not start. Now, its not unusual for this B&S engine to shear its flywheel key when the blade has a clout. This one had not only sheared the key but shattered the flywheel, something I rarely see. New flywheel and everthings good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for all those replies, looks like I need Tapatalk.

I agree Andy, I dont wave it around in public but thought it would be handy to take photos for 'whats on my bench' on the i pad to save loading them from camera to PC. Sounds easy, but I cannot browse for photos from the advanced posting menu, like I can on PC.

I am pretty good with machines, but rubbish with computers. I can take photos on my i pad with no trouble, but can't find how to insert them into an Arbtalk post. I can do it fine on the PC though. Any ideas will be welcome.

I was ready to have mine done under general anasthetic, sat there in flattering backless gown etc. The nurse checked my blood pressure and looked shocked. It was way to high to administer a general, so the surgeon decided to do it under a local. I was able to watch it all on the big screen TV, Amazing skills these guys have.

Had mine done a few years ago too. Went in to hospital on crutches as the left knee was 'locked' and had been for a week. Walked out later that day and went to work (only in the office) for a few hours. Back in the workshop next day. My shoulders hurt more than the knee because of the week on crutches!.

Yes, thats the thing. I tend to use my own terminology as all manufacturers use slightly different names. Sorry to confuse!

Now we know it was defo the carb, so my theory is that the metering valve arm was a little too low. When the fuel pump was lifting fuel into the metering chamber it was at a pressure where the metering diaphragm could overcome it easily and open the metering valve. But when the pressure in the metering chamber was increased a little by the 'head' of petrol when the saw was on the side, the atmospheric pressure acting on the diaphragm could not push quite far enough to open the valve. Well, thats my theory anyway. Glad its working for you now Charles.

Yes, Husqvarna bought Komatsu Zenoah in 2007, but it is a Regional brand, rather than a Global brand, simply meaning it is only available in certain areas, Poland being the nearest to here. There is a UK dealer listed on the Zenoah website, but they only cater for the little 29cc engine fitted to toy cars etc. It is a pity because it is a good brand, probably no better than the other excellent Japanese products, but very good all the same. I guess its not marketed here because of too much conflict with Husqvarna's other UK brands. But it would be unwise IMO to buy one in the UK as you will have a nightmare getting spares, OK, you may be prepared to spend hours surfing the web thing, but should it go to a dealer for repair, he wont be able to spend the time searching. There are plenty of other mainstream Japanese machines to go for which will have spares backup, but, granted, they may not be as cheap as the one you have seen in Polyland.

Did the rep say that they have actually sold any? £3500 GBP !!!!!! I dont know of any customer in my area who would contemplate spending that amount.

Komatsu Zenoah make some excellent kit. It used to be marketed and supported in the UK by Allen, but since their demise some years ago, spares have become very difficult, if not impossible. I am not aware of any current main line importer for this kit in the UK, although things may have changed while I was not looking! So if you buy one from Poland you may have to get your spares there as well. Bars, chains and carb parts will be available easily in UK though.

I have an idea forming, but cant quite see it through. It goes like this. Saw upright, fuel being pulled up from tank to carb by pumping diaphragm as fuel lower than carb. Saw on side, blade down, full tank of fuel. Fuel flowing by gravity into carb as fuel higher than carb. Is there a potential flooding issue if the carb diaphragms are incorrectly fitted? Any ideas, Spud? Stubby? anyone?.