GardenKit

As Skyhuck says, the oil pump needs to line up with the spur, if not when you tighten it up it will bind up. Tip, after fitting correctly check its all free. Do not run up the saw without the bar and chain on. The clutch self tightens under load, but can loosen under overrun (when throttling down) if it has not fully tightened. The drum could spin off at 200 mph (guess) and hit the workshop wall before getting lost in the rubbish under the bench.

as well as working 100 hrs a week. Did you have time to eat, Stevie?

The minimum wage is IMO totally fair. It is after all, a MINIMUM wage. There is nothing preventing employers paying more for the right person. Anyone who accepts work at the minimum wage is either desperate to work at any cost, in which case he will accept it, or he does not posess the technical or 'people' skills to warrant a higher paid job. Those who accept work at the minimum wage should not grumble. If they want to earn more, then they need to market themselves and their skills to prospective employers. If they are as good as they think they are they will find plenty of employers who are currently desperate for good staff and willing to pay the right money to the right person. Employers who ONLY pay the minimum are only causing problems to themselves as they will never have a happy and efficient workforce. I pay my casual (one day a week) van driver £12.00 per hour, and £10.00 per hour to the person who washes the machines off prior to service. They are both totally reliable and happy in their work, worth every penny to me. Well, thats my opinion anyway.

In 1978 a 100hp tractor was considered to be large, and 4wd drive was uncommon. So we did everything with this size tractor, from ploughing with 6 furrows (not reversible) to silage and grain carting with 6-8 ton trailers (kit was smaller in those days) The 'bubble' cab was the first luxury cab to appear, but it suffered badly from rust in the decorative panels covering the ROPS frame. These panels can be welded and do not affect the safety frame, which cannot be drilled or welded. The 97 hp 4cyl block, did, as others have mentioned, suffer from porosity. I used to have them bored and fit sleeves to them to cure this. The bronze brake discs could wear, especially if the wrong axle/hydraulic oil was used. The worn material would wreck the hydraulic pump, but it is easy to replace. I have replaced loads of brake discs, hydraulic pumps and dual power packs. Clutches are cheap and simple to do, especially on a 2wd, only a couple of hours work in those days. I could almost do them in my sleep. Even though the one you are considering has high hours, it has almost certainly had lots of parts replaced to get that far. I have been out of ag for 10yrs now, but after market parts from the likes of Vapormatic used to be readily available and relatively cheap. I expect they still are. Give it a go.

Good post, Stereo.

Looks great, we have not been there for years, yet only live a mile away.

You are lucky to have a good source of new and used spares locally at Ron Greet:thumbup1:

I think thats a bit more than 'non running'. Add 'rusted out' to the description. It will need a bonnet, a cowl, footplates and wings at least. Good Luck.

Thats one expensive piston if you add 1 1/2 hrs labour to it:biggrin:

I agree with Spud. It does seem likely that the compression is down due to wear and tear, and is just too low when decompressed as well. Although it is starting fine without the decompressor, if the comp is down you should be noticeing a lack of power in use, and a lag in getting the blade up to speed. If the performance and hot start is OK, then maybe its just a duff decompressor which is not popping up quickly enough after the first fire. In any case a compression check might not be a bad idea if you have a guage.

I think the most likely cause is the carburettor coming loose from the block ( or the insulator) When this happens they run weak, therefore fast, before dying, hopefully for good, as after all its a Ryobi. Certainly not a machine for pro-use.

We are all talking as though there are only two possibilities, Einhell or Zomax. China is a massive country with more than one saw manufacturer. They not only copy western goods, but also copy each other, so the identifying features mentioned in previous posts will apply to loads of saws. Just look at this list of producers and exporters. Chain Saw, China Chain Saw, Chain Saw Manufacturers, China Chain Saw Suppliers

I think John Ruskin (1819-1900) must have had a time machine and foreseen this Chinese tat. He wrote "It is unwise to pay too much, but its unwise to pay too little. When you pay too much you lose a little money, thats all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot. It can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder it's well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better" What a very wise man he was.

I agree, it does look like Einhell. Does anyone know if Einhell manufacture their own kit, or is it bought from China. It certainly looks and feels chinese. I come across many people who have bought this type of thing and never used it as there have been multiple faults straight out of the box. Do yourselves a big favour guys. and dont be tempted. If you buy cheap, you buy twice.

Does it even have a starter? Looks like one that has already been returned for starter trouble.

Is there any output from the alternator? Is there any output from the regulator? Or is the battery simply not holding charge between cuts. Does the mower work OK when started, or does it die after a short while of cutting? If it keeps going once started I guess it will be charging, as the Mag clutch would quickly drain the battery otherwise. In this case the battery is either being drained between cuts, or simply losing its power. If its disconnected between cuts, does it then hold its power? All things to check.

Bob, firstly, are you sure its not charging, i.e have you done a charging test with an ammeter or preferably a dc shunt. Or is it,as Dave says, just a flat battery, or one that wont take, or hold, its charge. Secondly, check the little bank of fuses just over the top of the fuel tank. These sometimes corrode, causing overheating, melting, and failure. One of these does, I think, control the charging. sorry, posts overlapped, just seen the reply to Dave!

Very often the cheap stuff does not actually do what its intended to do, yet alone last. I had one in the other day ( just a cheapy, not one in the OP ) it started and ran OK but the clutch was so small and weak that the chain stopped as soon as it met any resistance. It took ages just to get through an 8" cord, by which time the clutch was smoking. This was an almost new saw. Money wasted IMO.

14000 for the 201t too, but max power on the 200t is 2.3hp at 10,000rpm max power on the 201t is 2.4hp at 9,500 rpm so they dont need to scream as much in the cut. Huck,s dead right about it being supplied set up correctly. They do need checking by the dealer on PDI and another dealer tweak after a few weeks is not a bad idea. Unfortuneately, most small engines these days, from chainsaws to outboard motors are factory tuned for emissions. The manufacturer cannot overcome this, but the owner can.

Exactly right. The problem was that as they evolved, just like all the others, they became more reliant on electronics. So if you ever find an early one in good nick it will cost less to keep running and save a lot of frustration. Ford axles and Ford engine. Standard multi bank spool valves if I remember correctly. Simples. Built in Tetbury.

I was an agricultural mechanic on large farms during the 80's when these handlers were in their infancy. The most bombproof at the time IMO was the Matbro Ram 40, well built. low tech, even size wheels and not even Telescopic, but it will do everything you want. Its pivot steer with two tractor back axles front and rear, so no expensive steering repairs or outboard planetary gears. Worth a look?

All weekends up to easter, but only one since..... till now! It has usually eased up by now, but this is a strange year.

Not quite on the bench yet, but in the queue to get there. This lot came in for service yesterday, never had so many in one day. I only just managed to get them inside at night. They need to be back next week so i guess its another weekend working,

My Jeep Cherokee 2.8ltd (161hp) gives 32mpg when kept down to 60 max, but drops to 26mpg at 85 solo or 65 with the trailer at about 750kg. So not the best on fuel, but loads of grunt.

Spark plugs? They do fail, but not often. What does happen to all plugs is that the electrode gap widens with use, its eroded by its own sparks. A wide gap can cause a weaker spark and possible hot start issues. Plugs are cheap and a new one every now and then is a good move. I would never charge someone for a service and not fit a plug. Needle bearing? These defo need grease, and as often as possible. Weekly is a good idea. Lack of grease does not just ruin the bearing, it wears the drum and the crank. A worn bearing results in a wobbly drum and on some saws, such as the 260 and 360, a wobbly drum can ruin the oil pump drive and even wear the pump casing. A costly repair could be saved by some very cheap grease.