GardenKit

Not quite sure why you need to remove the left hand cover (guess you mean the recoil housing) although it should come off easily when the screws are out. No need for hammers or levers. Causes of no fuel geting through can be:- split or holed fuel pick up hose, blocked tank filter, blocked gauze inside carb or damaged impulse hose. The only fuel related thing you need take the recoil off for is too change the impulse hose. EDIT so its an 020AV, hahaha, thats a different story, but the same causes are valid and need to be checked.

Just a little break from saws. This Briggs 3.5 sprint engine would not run well. It had recently been "serviced" by another dealer who had replaced the carb diaphragm. Now, these diaphragms are meant to be flat, but if they are installed without care the screws can grab the diaphragm and twist it. New diaphragm and everythings fine.

Another example of stale petrol cropped up today. It was a Tanaka brushcutter that had not been used since last year and would not run. What a mess! The stench of stale petrol is still with me, it wont wash away. One picture shows the gungy mess of the fuel filter, the others show the swelled pump diaphragm and metering diaphragm from the Walbro carb. New fuel lines, diaphragms and filter and its running great now, on Aspen.

are those things flesh coloured kevlar chest protectors, and do those little buttons hold them on?

According to Stihl Bulletin 46.97 in 1997 all 029 saws after ser no 39305257 had the 46mm piston and bore and the saw was redesignated the 029 super. Does this help guys?

Having a cot full of celebs is all very well, but where is the baby?

A normal mix depends on he price of petrol and oil but runs out at around £8.00 for 5 litres. Aspen 2T currently retails at £18.15 for 5 litres, so over £2.00 per litre more expensive. Is it worth it? All I can say is that sales of Aspen are increasing rapidly so there must be many who think it is worth it. I have been selling it for a year now and have sold around 1000 cans to a relatively small customer base. The majority of users were at first aprehensive, especially about the price, but they have come back for more, time after time, and would not contemplate returning to petrol. They know its costing them money but are convinced of its worth to them. There is no doubt that engines run cleaner and service costs are lower. Health issues are difficult to put a value on, but there is little doubt amongst users that they do not tire as quickly and productivity is therefore increased. What is an extra hours work a day worth over the year?

You dont need a letter, just read the Husqvarna operator manual. Under the fuel section they reccomend the use of alkylate petrol. Husqvarna also sell their own alkylate fuel, but not in the UK. Their fuel is actually Aspen. See the Husqvarna name on the bottom of the cans. You can't get a higher endorsement than that! As Ironbark says, you wont damage any machine using Aspen. There is more chance, as Morten says of causing damage by using pump petrol.

Maybe he had two??? Prescott had two Jags.

After 5 minutes of squinting at it I think I see something. Looks more like Super Mario to me though.

I only got involved because I designed the beach recovery tractor and trailer. I have not got any pictures left of the tractor trial which is a shame because it involved me driving the tractor underwater with only 6" of cab showing:lol: Joined the crew as tractor driver and trained others to get wet, then progressed to 2nd cox on the boat.

You are only as old as you feel Silky. I feel like 18 but inreality am 56. You have to come off the RIBs at 50 as lifeboat policy says your body can't take the pounding anymore. Rules is Rules.

What goes up must come down:biggrin: Sometimes it hurt:thumbdown:

And here is me helming the local inshore rescue boat. I enjoyed that while it lasted. Too old now.

I've had small boats since i was a kid. Canoe, Otter dinghy, Orkney Spinner and a couple of Bonwitcos. Here's the latest. Its a 1974 With speedboat from Norway

I reckon you are on the right lines there, so best check the compression. Worn (wide) plug gaps can cause this, as can too rich a mix. Fuel vapour locks can also cause it, especially if using stale fuel. New plug, new fuel, quick tune, then if still no good do a comp test. Oh, and clean the air filter.

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These MS200t,s are great saws which are spoiled by rubbish carbs. Stihl have a habit of using Zama carbs, made in China. Oh, how I hate chinese (except Kung Po chicken). Give me a good Walbro any day. Having said that, its not just that its cheap and chinese thats the problem, its that to keep up with emission regs all engines are being 'leaned' down, to a point where they dont work well. The lean carb on a 200 needs the accelelerator pump to give it a little extra fuel when it picks up. The trouble is that its all a little finicky. The older 020 had a simpler, but not so enviro friendly carb which was more consistant and reliable ( still Zama though) I often fit these to the 200t, it sorts them out a treat.

I always feel daft when I take too long posting and someone else beats me to it (often you:biggrin:) I reckon we can get to the bottom of most things between us, eventually, if we ask the right questions.

Call in the reserve:biggrin: No definite answers Jammy, but a few questions for starters. Has it ever run for you? (or is it 'new' to you?) Does it start, or does it only rattle on cranking? "the compression seem low" ... has it been tested, if so what is it? As to which bar, I guess it depends on what you want to do with it. Maybe Spud is back from t'pub by now!! edit,Yes he is!!

Compression should be around 90 to 100psi, quite a bit lower than a 2 stroke so it wont seem much in comparison. Its also difficult to judge as the engine has an automatic decompressor to ease starting effort. You CAN do a compression test, but you MUST pull it very fast on the recoil several times to get past the decompressor. The valves need regular adjustment on these engines. They tend to become loose, limiting the amount of time they are open. To adjust, find the little arrow between the flywheel fins and point it to the RH ignition module mounting bolt. Make sure the valves are rocking. If they are overlapping (one open, one closed) rotate another 360 deg until they are rocking (both closed). Adjust to 0.1mm +- .02mm, using a feeler cut down to about 3mm to fit between the side pressings of the rockerarm. Rotate twice and check again. Unfotuneately, as its a 4 stroke engine you cannot check the piston through the exhaust port as the exhaust is passed out throught the valves to the exhaust port. Good luck

Matt, to test the breather theory try running it with the cap loose ( on the bench). But my money is on the coil. If you have an inline spark tester such as the Briggs one you can run it and watch the spark. If it grows weak before stopping then it shows that the coil is breaking down. Without that tester, just let it stop and then apply any tester, or even a tiny tach. If the coil is duff there will be no spark, but it may come back as it cools. It will eventually fail completely. Sometimes the coils fail in such a way as they cause the timing to alter, causing misfiring and backfiring too.

That clutch looks fine. Did you check out the other suggestions on the first thread? Why the second thread?

:thumbup:

I am keeping the Helmans by my hat, just in case. Yummm!