GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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Thats one of the things I cannot understand about Stihl. Most other makes have blades that can be adjusted easily using a threaded backbone and a locknut. I 'set' these on every service or sharpen and they will cut brilliantly. Stihl still use fixed spacers, true, they can be filed down, but its a tricky job. One stroke too many with the file and the blades pinch. There is no return from this and another spacer is needed. Come on Stihl, get your act together.
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Thats one of the things I cannot understand about Stihl. Most other makes have blades that can be adjusted easily using a threaded backbone and a locknut. I 'set' these on every service or sharpen and they will cut brilliantly. Stihl still use fixed spacers, true, they can be filed down, but its a tricky job. One stroke too many with the file and the blades pinch. There is no return from this and another spacer is needed. Come on Stihl, get your act together.
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The thing with universal oils is that they are a compromise in some motors. If all oils were the same there would not be so many oils. The Briggs engines mentioned should run on SAE 30 momograde oilin the UK climate, the use of thinner multigrades may result in some consumption. Japanese motors such as Honda and Kawasaki should use a 10w30 oil.
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The thing with universal oils is that they are a compromise in some motors. If all oils were the same there would not be so many oils. The Briggs engines mentioned should run on SAE 30 momograde oilin the UK climate, the use of thinner multigrades may result in some consumption. Japanese motors such as Honda and Kawasaki should use a 10w30 oil.
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Yes Andy, I agree. A grinder in the wrong hands can be disastrous to a blade very quickly. In the right hands its a very good tool and cannot beaten, the blades can be made as good as new.
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Yes Andy, I agree. A grinder in the wrong hands can be disastrous to a blade very quickly. In the right hands its a very good tool and cannot beaten, the blades can be made as good as new.
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I sharpen in the region of 100 hedgetrimmers each year and have tried many methods. The method that suits me best and that I have used for the last 10 yrs is a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a 1.0mm cutting disc. I probably should not reccomend this, as a cutting disc should not be used for grinding, but they work really well, and I have never had one break in use. Safety goggles are essential.
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I sharpen in the region of 100 hedgetrimmers each year and have tried many methods. The method that suits me best and that I have used for the last 10 yrs is a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a 1.0mm cutting disc. I probably should not reccomend this, as a cutting disc should not be used for grinding, but they work really well, and I have never had one break in use. Safety goggles are essential.
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Its one thing to have it. Its another thing to use it. But then, if you don't use it I guess you don,t have it.
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Its one thing to have it. Its another thing to use it. But then, if you don't use it I guess you don,t have it.
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Its one thing to have it. Its another thing to use it. But then, if you don't use it I guess you don,t have it.
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Those who think they have it, probably don't. Those who do have it, probably don't think they do.
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Those who think they have it, probably don't. Those who do have it, probably don't think they do.
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Those who think they have it, probably don't. Those who do have it, probably don't think they do.
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put a tracker on it:biggrin:
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You had a good deal there worcswuss. My service price for a self propelled walk behind is £85 inc vat, plug and oil. Blades, filters, belts etc are extra. £10 less for a push walk behind.
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Not for pro use. Try Tanaka.
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Bio-flows really do work, no placebo about it. Put one on an old dog (4 legged variety) to find out.
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grind properly and there is no problem, simples:biggrin: Just as Spud says, light touches with the wheel, dont try to grind out too much damage in one pass, go round again. 'pulse' the wheel onto the top of the cutter, whilst not in contact with the steel the air movement of the rotating wheel carries off some of the heat. As you move further down the cutter the wheel can be left on the steel longer as there is more bulk of steel to absorb the heat. wipe off the burr with your index finger then you will know if you have overheated it:sneaky2:
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Hi Woodchip, I have not been able to source allen ( komatsu zenoah) parts for years. There are no agents in the UK to my knowledege. I would be very interested if anyone can point us to a reliable supplier..
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I have had several Ryobi saws in with a chain brake problem where the the handle has to be held slightly back all the time to keep the brake off. One customer had been doing this from new for about a year and was grumbling about how difficult is was to use. The brake housings on these saws eventually melted just like the one you had in. Rubbish saws IMO
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I agree Steve. The chain brake is designed to work from WOT, thats what its for. It will stand up to it although it does feel a bid extreme and hard on the machine. The reving with brake on test will test the brake OK, but should not be done for any more than 1 or 2 seconds. The heat build up in the clutch is immense and if done for too long, or too frequently can lead to premature clutch/bearing/seal failure. The clutch springs may lose their tension early resulting in chain drag.
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Anyone in the Robertsbridge area - Ebay dilemma
GardenKit replied to spudulike's topic in General chat
: I must learn to read the post properly Steve. I thought you had bought a Mountfield saw:lol: -
There are many good mowers suitable for the OP's task on the market, many of which have been mentioned here. There are also many machines totally unsuitable. I am a dealer, so this opinion is biased, but I do feel that the success of the chosen mower is in part down to the dealer it is bought from. Maybe rather than choose a mower, choose a dealer who is good and local. Ask his advice and buy from his product range. You will then have excellent support and spares backup.
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The Aspen wont clean out an engine as it has no Solvents. It will however keep a clean engine clean. A clean engine is not a low compression engine, a worn one is and that will stop a saw starting on either aspen or pumpy juice.
