GardenKit

its not easy to get the right bend to get the hook in the right place. Another new spring may be in order methinks.

There was a thread a while ago. Basically you need an automotive type tester which will read up to 300psi, although your operating range will be 50 to 180psi generally. It needs to be a screw in one, not a push fit. Most 2 strokes used 14mm plugs until the last few years when a few 10mm plugs have appeared, so make sure the tester has a 10mm adapter, many do not. I have two currently. One is an old Draper and the other a new Sealey CT955 V2

Hi mowandgro. It should be a very easy job. Take off the 'R' spring, washer and rope rotor. Carefully remove the broken spring. Drop in the new spring (4180 190 0600) in its cage. install the rotor, making sure the curl on the spring engages the slot in the rotor. refit the pawl,washer and 'R'clip. Tension the rope, making sure that when the rope is pulled all the way out it is stopped by the knot, not by the spring being coil bound. Job done!

Its an old thread, but nevertheless a good question travis. I think the problem could be along these lines. If the Huskie was run for a time on 'pump petrol' before being swapped to aspen, then the carb diaphragms would already have started to degenerate. This is due to the solvents in petrol permeating the synthetic rubbers and nitrile material and 'washing' out the chemicals built in to maintain the suppleness. The solvents then take over the tasks of keping the material soft whilst slowly destroying it. When you swap to Aspen which has no solvents present, you can sometimes find that the materials start to harden up and crack. If left dry for a period they will harden but not soften again when reintroduced to Aspen, but reintroduce pump petrol and they will be attacked by the solvents and softened once more whilst they continue to be destroyed. But this softening may have been enough to enable a start. New diaphragms which have only ever seen Aspen will remain supple indefinately, as there are no solvents to wash out the inbuilt chemicals which maintain the suppleness. When using Aspen it is best IMO to leave the machines 'wet' as there is nothing to gain from emptying them. The severity of the the problem you experienced will depend on the previous exposure to the pump petrol. Machines changed whilst fairly new will not have the problems that may be experienced with older kit. Install new diaphragms and you should be fine for ages on Aspen. Incidentally, some of the old posts on this thread seem to hint that all machines need a retune on conversion, but that is simply untrue. Over the last 12 months I have converted hundreds of machines to Aspen, most of which have needed no retuning for aspen, in fact I usually service them first with the petrol that they come in with it if it not stale. Most will need a small retune on service to run at their best ON THE ORIGINAL FUEL. I will then drain the tank and refill with Aspen. Then test the state of tune again and normally they need no further adjustment. Hope this has been of some help.

Matt, you can do it yourself its a doddle. To do the engine shaft, take off the centre coupler, slacken the throttle assy and unclamp the tube from the clutch housing. Release the plastic retainer sleeve at the coupling end and pull out the shaft. Push in a new shaft c/w clips and new plastic sleeve (part no 4140 710 3220). slip the tube from the clutch hsg and fit the rubber grip over the shaft. Push it all fully home and refit the coupler. Tighten every thing up. The Hl-KM end is treated similarly, just release the plastic guide sleeve, pull out the shaft and replace it with 4140 710 3225, not forgetting to fit the rubber grip behind the guide (it stops the shaft sliding out) Retail price of parts is around £40 plus vat.

Thanks for posting Will. Its good to see a thread closed properly.

We have a Dr Pepper. But Donald Duck is a brilliant name for a local quack.

Of course not:001_tongue:

Of course people work for the money Andy, but my point was that they should not have two standards. If they accept the offered rate of pay then they they should give 100% in both effort and care. Its one thing to then find that their standard of work is not up to your expectations, this is your problem if they really cant do do it right and you have to review their employment. But to give an incentive payment and find that they can then suddenly do it correctly is totally wrong. A good guy will give 100% whatever the pay if he has accepted it, the ones who dont are virtually holding the employer to ransom.

A few years ago in another business I started paying incentive bonuses to get the the work done on time. For example, a particular tractor clutch could be done in 8 hours, but was always taking 12. I started paying incentives to get it done in 8, and suddenly it could be. Then I found I was paying incentives to get done what could be done anyway, so stopped the incentives and ended up with disgruntled staff. I would think very carefully about the long term consequences of incentive bonus payments. If they can do it properly then they should, irrespective of money. If its only money that makes them perform properly then maybe they should work elsewhere?

I have a Biffa bin specifically for recycling plastics, paper and cardboard, which is emptied weekly. Many of my customers now bring back their empties and pop them in the Biffa bin. (This works particularly well with Aspen customers). Maybe one of your suppliers can offer a similar service?

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg317.pdf This should explain it.

I really cant see why Aldi want to bother with chainsaws. Although as Pedroski says, there will be impulse buys, surely there cannot be a great volume in each store. Add to this the hastle they will get from returns (there will be loads) and I doubt they will make any money from selling saws. Returns of this type of product are huge. Some have broken down as discussed here, others have failed to start out of the box. Some are returned because they siezed immediately due to no 2 stroke being used, and some because they dont cut as the chain is on back to front. They will all be exchanged with no questions asked, as no staff know which questions to ask. Amazingly too, some will be returned with an excuse that it does not work properly, after it has been used to do the only job required of it. (buy the saw, cut down your only tree, return the saw) Good luck to Aldi.

Thats what makes an interesting thread on an excellent forum, in my opinion.

As I see it, its not a law that will get anyone arrested, more a code of conduct set by the saw manufacturers by which the dealers abide on the whole. If a code is set, it becomes the norm, if it is then broken and an accident follows then the dealer who broke the code stands on his own. The code has been set in response to the HSE guidelines on the use of top handles, which states that only trained operatives can use them. It therefore follows that only trained operatives should buy them. That is my brief take on it. Others may have more to add.

I guess there exceptions to everything Rich, and you have had good value from your cheapy saw. I think a good operator may be a lot to do with it. Cheapy saws breaking down dont give me work Rich, as I wont touch them. Cant get the bits and I hate working on them, so I dont.

yes, it is treated exactly the same

A guarantee does not stop it from breaking, it merely means that they will repair it, or replace it eventually. It most likely WILL break down, It most likely will be a bad starter, the chain brake will likely fail, the oiler be poor and the clutch will be weak. You will likely spend more time without it than with it. Why bother, put your money towards something better, that is backed not only by guarantee, but by service and parts. Once again, this is only my opinion.

The point is that like it or not, the chainsaw is a potentially dangerous bit of kit in uneducated hands. I agree that the other tools mentioned also have the potential to harm, but not like a saw which has an unguarded chain in close proximity to the operator. The powers that be obviously feel the same hence the need for the CS tickets, I dont believe the other tools mentioned need training courses in order to be covered by insurance. (maybe the Hilti ?) So where do you draw the line? I think the chainsaw is at the top of the list and the line is drawn under it. Incidentally, I am not advocating that potential buyers need to have a recognised certificate, only that sales staff are required to do what I always do. That is to commission the machine and instruct the purchaser in the various controls and adjusters and to explain the danger of kickback, loose chains etc. Its surely not too much to ask, is it? But as said, thats just my opinion.

In my opinion saws should not be sold by places like Aldi, or even B&Q unless they have suitably trained staff who can FULLY explain the safe use of the equipment. A qualified tree surgeon has to show his climbing ticket to buy a top handle at a dealer, yet any numpty can limp into Aldi and buy a chainsaw in a box with no assesment at all from the supplier

Andy, I cant comment on the accuracy of Aspens dealer list, I do know we were updated ONTO it quickly. Yes, it surely is regional, like many other things. My wife likes to shop at ASDA but there is not one locally, but in Cornwall where we often go there are two within about 15 miles. Bit like Aspen here in East Devon, two stockists now within 10 miles. I appreciate Pedroski,s comments on delivered price at around £23.00 per can. Its a lot of money, but I get customers travel 15 miles to me to get one can, so that is even more expensive in the end.

The supply issue is a problem Andy. There are an ever increasing number of stockists and volume sold nationally is increasing quite impressively. I agree that there is no local supply then it is difficult to even test the product which is a shame. Many of those who have gone out of their way to get some have been sufficiently pleased with the result to buy a supply direct from Anglo American. Your local supplier did not sell his pallet, but that does not mean it does not sell. The footfall through my small shop has, I estimate just about doubled in the last year because of our largest selling item which is Aspen. I took one pallett last september and only expected to shift one or two pallets a year, but am just getting to the end of my 16th pallet. That equates to nearly 1000 cans. So it Is a worthwhile product, with many advantages, but nobody is trying to force anyone to buy it. It is totaly up to you and all other prospective buyers to justify the cost to yourselves.

i agree with you, Likeitorlumpit, most pro users wont have a staleness issue as they have a quick turn round of fuel, and from being arbtalkers they are aware of the need to keep it fresh. The problems come mostly from domestic users who have no awareness and very low turnover. Although the tanaka mentioned above is used every year, it is not used much and 5 litres of petrol will be sufficient for several years use. The petrol put in this machine when last used last year was already several years old. I post this sort of thing to show the doubters that there really is an issue. I do recomend Aspen, as I am a firm believer in its many benefits, but in truth any FRESH petrol is ok to prevent the extremes pictured.

Whats under my bench? The metering valve lever spring from a Zama carb. These things fly easily so I always make sure the floor is spotless before stripping a carb. Makes it much easier to spot the spring:thumbup1:

I'm fairly sure that there is at least one screw coming through from the other side into the recoil/tank housing on the 020AV, totally different to a 200T. Be careful.