GardenKit

Yep, the thing with the blower is that it is always under load, unlike most other 2t machines which have WOT speeds with no load. We tune a saw, for example, to 4 stroke under no load, so that as the power is demanded it uses more of the excess fuel and reverts to 2 stroking. The blower is always under load and so should not be fourstroking, so it needs to be weakened a bit, this will increase the revs. Check the plug colour after a bit of use, if its light coffee colour it is fine. If its white, then its too weak, and lean failure can result.

Matt, I think its got to be a carb problem, either due to dirt or wear of the metering valve, or due to a defect in the carb body. Your dealer should be able to test the carb for leaks by pressurising it under water. The solution may well be a new carb.

Stihl don't give max RPM for blowers as, in their words 'the power is constantly being absorbed by the fan' I've just checked this on the dealer system to be sure of my facts.

This is an interesting one, but, as Spud says, it should be fixable. As it was OK before the handle was replaced then its logical to think that the problem lies there. The major items which could have been damaged before or during the repair are the impulse tube, fuel pickup pipe and the inlet manifold boot. My first check would be the manifold boot. Once disturbed they often dont reseal properly as the rubber has hardened. It could be that as it warms up it deforms a little, letting in a bit of air. The MS 200 t is however well known for its 'finicky' carb, so it could be coincidence that this is playing up and not connected to the handle repair. It is often possible to clean and tune them, only for them to fail again. Its sometimes better just to slap a new carb on. I prefer to fit the old 020 type carb as its cheaper and more reliable IMO. I always keep a new one in stock, putting it on is real quick and provides a cheap diagnosis of the problem, if it works I know it was the carb and nothing else.

Sorry to hear of your illness, likeitorlumpit. I hope your treatment goes well for you. My brother in law has just finished some intensive chemo for a different type of cancer. He has had several chemo treatments over the last 25 years, followed by operations and has come through them extremely well. This time however, he almost refused the chemo because of his unpleasant expieriences in the past, but he decided eventually to go ahead. But this time he has hardly suffered at all and has been amazed at the difference made by the modern medicines. It is important, as said by others, to eat well to keep your strength up, and to avoid contact with anybody who may be suffering from any cold or viral infections. As regards the possible causes, I doubt you will ever know for sure, but benzene is known to be a possible cause, yet there is very little public awareness of this, so thank you for bringing it to members attention, it may help others. Best of luck with you treatment, mate.

There are plenty of holes out there without digging any more, Rich. They can make you stop fast when you find them. I used to be a helmsman on Atlantic 21 lifeboat, so my present boat is a bit tame, but still good fun. This is a little off thread though, methinks, Sorry Spud.

Could be nose sprocket, or could be a dry, or worn, needle brg in the clutch drum.

I'd go out more Rich, but my wife only likes it when its hot, and I dont get much time till all the mowers are serviced and running. Thats a 25hp bigfoot, 1999 model

Co-op . ( "Brewers" in my day, Jon)

I get customers like your mum all the time, and its a really difficult one to answer. The 1st option is to see if a good service could improve the starting of her current machine, delaying the change for a few years. Secondly, electric start. To my knowledge there are no retro E/S kits, so a new machine is the only option. The cheapest one I know of is £475 for an 18" machine, so probably a bit large for her garden. Most others are in the £700 plus bracket. Electrics are of course cheaper, many of the £100 ish machines are pretty feable but there are some very decent quality machines around at about £200. Rechargable mowers are good, but need to be of the lithium ion type and will be around £400 I am talking of decent, mainline dealer type machines. There may be cheaper models of dubious origin on the net, but beware. Hope this helps a little.

I reckon everbody would be happy with a Landrover body on Toyota running gear:thumbup1:

I'd love the time to give it a try in my Jeep Cherokee 2.8 Ltd

I am sorry if you think my contributions are not helping the case, it is certainly not my intention to put anyones back up, or to push the product too hard and I don't think I have. I do however totally believe in the product and try to dispell some of the misconceptions that I see posted from time to time. I totally agree with your statement that Aspen has a place alongside regular 2 stroke and sell to many of my customers on just that basis. As you have found, the greatest benefits are found in the areas of the highest exposure to exhaust fumes. This is usually in hedgecutting, and I truly believe that all users engaged in this activity will benefit greatly from using Aspen and really owe it to themselves to give it a try. The advantages in normal saw usage are not so easy to prove. One area of benefit however is in large companies with high staff levels. It is quite common in some of these companies to suffer higher than average engine failure due to incorrect mixing, or confusion over the contents of various fuel cans. The use of a clearly identifiable pre-mixed fuel cuts down on a lot of these problems. It does not need to be a alkylate fuel to solve this problem, being so is merely a bonus.

Treequip, I dont know if it will actually save my life or not, but Aspen has certainly made a great difference to my health. I don't actually use the kit in the field, but have used it in the workshop all this past winter. For the 4 or 5 previous winters I had suffered from chest pains for which no medical reason could be found, also from quite severe sinus congestion. I now put this down to constant exposure to both unburnt, and burnt, petrol fumes as since swapping to Aspen this winter I have had neither the pains nor the breathing troubles. Another bonus is that my clothes dont stink of exhaust fumes at the end of the day and the workshop smells much fresher. It may be worth you giving it a try for a while, I'll bet you notice the difference.

Find a large nut to fit over the mashed head, the tighter the better, bash it all the way on with a hammer then mig around inside, welding the cap head bolt to the nut. Allow to cool, the heat will travel down the thread, breaking the rust seal. Get a good size socket and bar and undo. Simples.

In the OP a JCB teletruck was mentioned. My neighbour has one in his timberyard, its a brilliant bit of kit, BUT, dont ever take it anywhere even slightly soft, it will dig straight in, and it takes a lot to get it out. I have watched them try, several times. (you would think they would learn!)

part no 0000 350 5802 tank vent:thumbup1:

Even on a day off, can't get away from engines. Getting her ready for the first good sunday of the season.

We Sassinacks are more sensitive, Stevie.

I am so sorry for Ian and his family. Losing a child is the very worse loss. RIP

To be fair it was 15 yrs old, most steel decks don't even last that long. Many Honda Izy models are holed in 8 yrs.

Cider is a good alternative to lighting the fire Jon.

Vapourisation is indeed a possibilty, but I don't see how it will affect the operation of the primer, which draws fuel from the tank via the carb, thru the bulb and back to the tank. Another thing to check is the plug gap. Wide gaps cause hot start issues.

My niece took her 3yr old to London. They live in a sleepy village on the Mendips. On the tube they were sitting opposite a very, very dark gentleman of african origin. The young lad had never come across such an interesting person and stared at him intently for the duration of the journey, before pointing, and saying loudly "what,s that, mummy?"

Firstly, welcome to the forum, oldnwrinkly. Secondly, you are right, you should bin it. But in theory it should be fixable, if it was a Stihl, Huskie or similar there would be no question, but the quality of components used in the low end machines often make repairs next to impossible. Dealers in general, wont touch them. Your hot start problem is, I reckon more due to the mixture being a little weak. You should not need to prime on a hot start as the fuel should not have run back, but the primer should still work. If it really does need priming, then I would suspect the carb pump membrane. This has two little flaps which act as an inlet and outlet valve for the impulse operated fuel pump. If these flaps are worn, damaged or degraded in any way the fuel supply will be disturbed. Many of these cheap saws have the carb mounted to the base plate using coarse thread self tapper bolts (not sure if this applies to the Ryobi). The plastic gets 'pulled' into a little lump when the screws are tightened and when the carb is refitted it does not seat well and an air leak can develop. This effects both the mixture, and the strength of the impulse, causing problems such as yours. Hope this helps a little.