Stubby
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Everything posted by Stubby
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Hi Mark . hope you mend up well mate and get back to it soon . Regards Andy .
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Cheers mate.
It’s a tad sore to say the least, but everything appears pretty good, no swelling etc.
I’m not very good at lying around, but hopefully will improve with practice!
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Yea but I am laughing now 😁
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Fat wood . Pine cut from the dark heart wood rich in resin . You can light a stick with a match . Bloody expensive though !
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Woodchip sites for Biomass near Swansea and pontarddulais?
Stubby replied to Jlgriff97's topic in General chat
Ah , ok understood. -
Woodchip sites for Biomass near Swansea and pontarddulais?
Stubby replied to Jlgriff97's topic in General chat
Have you checked the tip site directory ? -
Bugger indeed !
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Hi Sally . Put yourself in the tip site directory 👍
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That is , or used to be the answer but , he is only taking personal delivery and collections now .
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You don't have to split the crankcases to check the flywheel . Take the starter cover off and there it is . You might need a puller to remove it as it is locked on a taper . Once off you will be able to see if the key has sheared .
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Two other things you can do are a vac test and a pressure test but I still think for compression 120 psi is not enough . Have you done as ADW suggested and checked to see if the fly wheel key has sheared putting it out of time ?
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Do you mean a pressure test or a compression test ? If its a compression test it should be at least 160 psi . 120 psi might not support combustion .
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It can be room sealed but mine is not . The air slide fully to the right is wide open . There is also a first catch on the door that holds it open a few milometers . I have the air slide to the right with the door just open for a few mins to heat up the flue . Then shut the door fully for 10 mins or so and when you feel its hot enough move the air slide over to the left till you get the desired flame . Its very simple to use . These are no other controls . 👍
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It will be the wire that comes from the switch that shorts the spark to earth I would think .
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Thats the one . The lower one in the pic . Don't do what some bloke did and file with it still on there ! Just use it to test how much ( ie 3 stroke or 4 strokes ) per raker then just file all the others with the same number of strokes . If you want to be persnickety you can put a radius on the leading edge but to honest its not the exact science you are making it out to be . I am like the others , every 3rd sharpen I might put 2 strokes over the rakers . You kinda get to know whats needed .
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There is a bloke on Ebay ( somewhere in Preston Lancs ) selling ex demo Efco saws . For example - a current 51cc saw for £175 . The pics look like new but he does say ex demo .
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Not quite . The one I am on about has a step in it and is narrower and fits over the cutters .
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Check out Burley . I have one and can't fault it .
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I see no wide wheels ?
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The ground wire going to , well , ground ?
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I think I would have one over an MS180 . I did buy one second hand many years ago when Spud had my 346xp in for porting . Around 45cc . It was just a stop gap till I got the Husky back but I was quite surprised at how well it performed . Sold it about a month later for more than I paid so win win .
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It does it automatically if you use the cheap pressed steel gauges as they sit on the top plate of the cutter . As the cutter lowers as you sharpen back so does the gauge . Simples
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You mention above running different gauge chains . Do you mean the width of the drive link ? If you run a .043 wide chain in a bar with a groove width of .058 it will rock to one side causing problems ...
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December Raspberries, so is Greta onto something!
Stubby replied to difflock's topic in General chat
No bud . Never touched it matey . 🙂 -
Actually it looks , from the pics fixable . Is it do you think ?
