Jamespepperpot
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Everything posted by Jamespepperpot
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Try a local sawmill, they could probably cut you a whole load for cheap. I cut some every now and then from hemlock on my Woodmizer. Get enough from one log to do a whole bunch of stacking.
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New Panther Chainsaw Mill Prototype - Raw Sneak Peak!
Jamespepperpot replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Yes I was planning to go on the 8th, do you have a stand there? -
New Panther Chainsaw Mill Prototype - Raw Sneak Peak!
Jamespepperpot replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Wow Rob that looks awesome!!... If you need someone to test one for a while I'd happily volunteer -
Could you have cut through the hinge on the other side? That would cause it to pinch even if you have hinge on the powerhead side. I would just do the downward cut but a bit higher up so you don't cut near your bar
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Wow that sink is epic!
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You could cut them down the middle, plane both sides then glue them back together. A lot less wastage that way
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It was felled about a month prior. Was a perfect straight stem though. Often can tell if a board is going to crack from what the butt end looks like. I milled 2&1/4 and 1&1/4 boards and they hardly moved. Oak on the other hand....
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I've had the opposite and found it pretty stable even when I milled in green in the middle of July. Did paint the ends straight away and stuck it under cover
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I would imagine you still need to air dry beech for a year or so before it goes into a kiln. If you really are wanting to do it straight away I would bring the wood into your house for at least a month before you do anything. That way a lot of the movement and cracking will happen first then you could design and build around whats left - Maybe stack it up with stickers and ratchet strap it down super tight to reduce the amount it warps. The other thing with green timber is that it doesn't finish very well. Not ideal but sometimes you gotta crack on!
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Thanks Mark, Various sizes all 2 inch thick. they are mostly 2m but are between 50cm and 80cm wide from what I remember. Probably around £40 a cubic foot I made a table/desk for my tv to sit on out of a bigger bit a while ago when I first properly got into woodwork.
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Cheers bud, Ive made a few things out of the boards but there is only so much burry wood you can have in your house!
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Ive got some burry oak boards that have been air dried for over two years, plenty of character. I could flatten them for you if needed. The best one looked like this when I cleaned it up. Im in Wadhurst
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Some pictures for the woodcraft and milling sections:thumbup:
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The worst thing you can hit with a saw
Jamespepperpot replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Found a mummified cat in some ivy around the base of a tree in Germany the other week. Crispy! -
Does she want it milled and turned into a table at the same time? I could possibly do it. Be worth it if its a couple of days work though.
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I've flown over to nice in France with BA before with 2 saws and climbing kit and been fine. Just asked them before hand and they said we had to drain the tanks and make sure they were clean
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Lasted pretty well after milling a hell of a lot of timber with the Alaskan!
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The granberg precision grinder is pretty much completely adjustable and has a limiter screw so you take the same amount off each tooth. Got the diamond bit on mine now and it's awesome
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I couldn't find a better picture but this kinda explains it. Although if you're sharpening with a normal file it would only happen if you were filing the bottom of the tooth rather than keeping the same profile so I doubt this is the problem - I don't 100% know that it was mine but it was the only thing I could see wrong on mine. It cut pretty fast though. More common with electric grinders as the stone shrinks in size when used
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I had this with a Oregon ripping chain, it was about half way through its life and was pretty hawksbeaked due to the grinding stones on the sharpener getting smaller and me not correcting it. I was starting to get it to cutting properly and then wrote it off on a 6 inch nail. Never got it back to cutting efficiently after that. Although it's strange how it's just a small patch on that board
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I've never found it worth cutting sleepers, especially on my mizer which doesn't have hydraulics either. They're only like £20 off the Internet, I've even thought about buying in sleepers to cut other sizes of timber out of as it saves a whole bunch of time and wastage. Chestnut gateposts tend to do alright though
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I could possibly help with this if needed. I've played around with curved bits of oak before to make a footbridge.
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Oak will never be completely dry in the centre no matter how long it's been dead for. I've milled dead standing trees in the middle of summer and they are still wet inside. I've found the wood to be a bit more stable when seasoning further though.
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The rail that they sell to keep the mill straight and square is pretty crucial to the operation. It is a bit of a faff to set up but I have two saws set up - one in the Alaskan and one in the vertical.
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A ripping chain will leave a fair better finish - pretty much as smooth or smoother than a bandsaw mill. Also it's semi chisel and seems to stay sharper longer than a normal chain would - especially if you hit any debris as it doesn't damage the working corner as much. However they are slower for cutting across the grain than a normal chain. For the time it takes to change a chain over it would definitely be better to buy a ripping one. You'll be thankful when it comes to preparing the boards for whatever you're going to use them for!
