Jamespepperpot
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Everything posted by Jamespepperpot
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I usually start off with a smoothing plane then go straight to hand sanding or belt sand then hand sand with a decent sanding block. Depends how good the finish is after planing. On some straight grained timber like cherry you can pretty much finish off a smoothing plane if it's set up right
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Mobile sawmill required, Bushey, Watford
Jamespepperpot replied to J The Tree's topic in Milling Forum
I could possibly fit it in next Friday? Bit of a drive for me but send me a PM if you cant find anyone else. -
That's an awesome way of attaching the a big slab as a top! The round table took about 2 days including milling the timber on my Woodmizer. It's kinda hard because I do it mostly in the evenings after other work so it's not consecutive. The bigger table took pretty much the same, although I milled the top slab with an Alaskan on that.
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A couple of tables I've made recently.
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It's not really a case of felling it in case they get it, the OP had said he is concerned about the union opening up and causing damage/being dangerous. At the end of the day it's a cankered pole with a bush on the top of it. It just seems to me that there isn't much point in trying to retain something like that if it's going to bother the owner so much I would bet half the people posting on this saying how it shouldn't be removed probably took down trees in the last week that were far healthier and for much less of a reason...
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Im on the border of East Sussex and Kent, I can see trees with dieback outside my front door. Also seen a fair bit in Mayfield and whole coppiced copses where the regen has been affected pretty badly by it.
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More like realist. Perhaps you should drive around Sussex and see the effect it's had. It's not like it's a particularly specimen ash tree is it?
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It's hard to say really, from what I've read on this thread about its location perhaps something slow growing so it doesn't get too big too quickly. Perhaps something that has fruit in the autumn which would be good for the birds? Perhaps a Rowan ash?
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Is it worth all that work when it's probably going to get Chalara soon and die anyway? I live in Sussex and have seen quite a few trees with it now. I'd fell it and replant with something decent from English woodlands
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I'm sure I saw a frame on eBay once that did clamp a chainsaw in to do mortises. I think it was for doing chestnut post and rail stuff. Was pretty pricey I think
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I don't have any pictures of the boards as they are under a whole load of other stacked timber but I took some pics when milling. They're not the cleanest but have some nice patterns in them.
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Ah I see you've put Maidenhead, that's about 60 miles from mine
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I have a few boards of robinia but I think I'm pretty far away from you. They're about 2 inch thick probably 15"-20" wide and 3 metres long
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Hi, I've been milling some Deodar Cedar for a client today and I have a couple more butts to do yet. I need to get it kiln dried in order to make some desks for them. In total I'd imagine there will be around 30 boards that are 3 foot by 5 foot and 2 inches thick. Is there anyone near Wadhurst that has a kiln and can do this for me? Many thanks James
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Haha it's not if you shoot it yourself
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I've made venison jerky before which was really good although I saw it off in about 3 days!! Was in the US a couple of weeks back and they sell it in almost every shop you go in. I did mine in a dehydrator, it took about 6 hours.
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A couple of benches I finished today to go with the table I posted a picture of a few weeks ago. Good to get a use out of the top and bottom slice
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I did a 2mm offset which seemed to work pretty well. No I went all the way through one side of the mortise, the tenon and then half way through the other side of the mortise. I did 16 drawboring joints in that desk and only broke 2 pegs which was probably my fault as I was using a round carvers mallet to knock them in and I think I may have hit the top of the peg out of square and snapped it. An article I read before I did them has some really interesting pictures including a cross section of a drawbored joint. Drawboring Resurrected - Popular Woodworking Magazine
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I did some drawboring joints on the last desk I made. If I remember correctly I did 9mm pegs made by driving a 10x10mm square of straight grained oak through a plate with a hole drilled in it. I cut the hole through without anything under it so it burred over and knocked them through on the burred side which helped cut them into pegs. Drawboring is really time consuming but it makes a very solid mortise and tenon joint.
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I had a problem with my 361 stalling when the chainbrake was on or left to tickover and it turned out to be a whole load of really dense chain oil and sawdust stuck behind the clutch and around the clutch cover. Gave it a right old clear out with the air line and its been fine since. I've been using Oregon chain oil which gets really thick when its cold so I think that may have been part of the issue as well as it not getting cleaned enough..
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Cheers guys, really enjoyed myself building it. It should last a fair while! Took 4 of us to move each of the planks on top!
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Thanks, They put bricks underneath the feet to keep them off the soil as they're planning on putting some stone around them I think
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An oak table I made for a customer using an oak tree they had felled a year or so ago.
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Tates have a yard in hadlow now as well. I use tates for all the closeboard I do and its good stuff!
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I've got a vice bolted into the back of my transporter. Best vehicle mod I've ever done. If I'm in the landy I just used a stump vice though
