muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Yes. All timber in kitchen is the same species.
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Nope can only guess to be fair, most kitchens I can tell quickly and easily. This one not so much. Will sand a bit on the weekend and see if I can match the finish. That's the job you see. Make up a matching end panel and moulding and repair any damage to rest of Kitchen. If I can't match it then it will be a complete strip which won't be fun. Kitchen also getting new worktops from specialist stone company.
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I always thought sycamore
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Yeah. Not softwood. Not beech either. Will sort some better pictures. Going to sand the back of a door down so that should help. Cheers
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Trying to identify the wood in these cabinet doors. Got my own thoughts but thought I'd throw it out there for some second opinions. Cheers
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Which way you going to play it. Buy or sell?
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Half way through yellow jackets. Loving it. Very dark
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The whole 6" mill is currently about 15k so brace yourself for a shock. It won't be cheap.I've seen some home made permanent rail setups and they dont have to be that complicated.I have the model 8.If you need any advice or pics of how things work then shout. Its well worth getting it to work. Awesome Mills for big logs or dimensional timber. I quite fancy a second carriage myself so you can have one set up cutting either direction. Also shout if you want to sell. Edit. Saying that I think the 6"carriage is narrower than the 8
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The man has a point. Seen some people Do since crazy things with 5 mins on the Internet.I couldn't find you but got a mate who could if I asked him nicely. Full name, where you work, not sure if ive seen your car reg or not, doesn't take a lot. I say build what you like. Sod the planners. There is always retrospective if your not being unreasonable which I dont think you are. No idea of permitted development laws in Scotland but no chance of that being permitted in Englandshire with the lean-to. Always best to keep neighbours on side.
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Logs being moved by oxen were considerably smaller than the other pictures. Still doesn't make sense to me. A 4 or 5 ft Diameter tree is hard enough to process with modern machines. Rip cutting one of those by hand must be torturous. Must be easier to take smaller ones and process more of them.
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Can't imagine why you would want to cut down and mill a tree that big when there were smaller but still huge alternatives.
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I think you miss Interpreted my post. With all land, buildings etc that they are gifted, and private company would make way more gains than they do.
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Oh please. Your the one acting like a child here. Trying to wind the situation up and take the moral high ground at the same time really makes you look stupid. It's a public forum. People are allowed to reply. More importantly this is a joke thread. I think it's clear to most who should shut up and go away.
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I was chatting about this with my labourer a couple of months ago as he was towing the net gain line. We made made some wild assumptions and fag packet calculations but came to the conclusion that if any company was gifted the kind of land and infrastructure that they have, they would be pretty disappointed with the gains.
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Would love the morris 1000 Manual please
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Done it a few times. As long as you follow methods fro green oak construction and the oak is of good enough quality it will be ok. Any fixings must be pegs or stainless timber screws. Stainless timber screws are expensive so price them in. Don't try to make anything too long. If the oak is low quality it will move more. However good the oak is 10% shrinkage is inevitable so design it in. Timber fixings may need tightening in a couple of years if they will move
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Thought I bet update this thread now, Didn't fancy rebuilding the turbo my self and couldn't get hold of a new one. So I fitted a recon turbo. Was a bloody hard job, really bad acsess. Got there in the end. Fortunately the diagnosis was correct and has been driving lovely since, Basic conversion coming up. Cheers all.
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Best process to finish and treat elm timber
muttley9050 replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Lovely work Steve. -
Plus 3.5k for the power pack to run it.
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A 12" battery cutter would be interesting but 9" too small. Have a plug in 9" which covers that bracket. Looking like husky it is then. Thanks
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Seems silly not to get the bigger capacity machine as its next to no difference in price. Makes a difference when cutting through a rendered wall or thick concrete. Ruled the makita out because I heard it was a bit sloppy. Haven't heard anything bad about husky though.
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Hi guys. Need to buy a new disc cutter today. Sold my two old ones recently on the bay to cover 50% of the cost and need one next week. Choice between either the stihl ts420 or the husqvarna k770 14". Run all stihl Chainsaws and local dealer is stihl. They won't go below £730 on stihl with abrasive blade though so they are priced out. Currently I can get stihl on abrasive blade for £620 and husky on no blade for £640 Stihl is marginally lighter. That's the only benefit of it I can see other than including blade it's probably £30 cheaper. Husky is lower vibration, more hp, can take 20 and 25mm arbor blades. I'm leaning towards the husky but have never used one of that model. Any first hand experience or opinions any one wants to share.?
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I certainly wouldn't be putting a 36" bar on my 391. 25 at a push.
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She only wants advice on the most helpful tools to help her continue with the job. Not people questioning if she actually can cut a hedge no one has seen in a day or not.
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Best process to finish and treat elm timber
muttley9050 replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Woodcraft Forum
I wouldn't use a chainsaw for that job, but with limited tools the chainsaw is a good choice. I suspect you know how to use one anyway. [emoji848]
