muttley9050

Nice, will make all the difference to your accuracy. If you have a waney edge slab you want straight you can screw or hot glue to a piece of ply to use as a guide down the fence.

Yeah will be fine for a rustic look

It certainly is rustic, I would want my oak about 20%moisture to build this or you will end up with large gaps Between boards. I would imagine in good drying conditions you could get your oak down to that in one year milled at 35mm.

"More imprtanly they do the job they are designed to do" Exactly they are designed to be built using joints that are suitable for green oak construction. A screwed Ledged and braced gate isn't this. Yes you can do it. Yes it will be OK. But will it still fit well and look better in 5 years time like a well weathered gate would. I doubt it. Id rather follow well known standards in timber construction for my employ. If I build a gate like the op wants it would be made from softwood or seasoned oak at around 20% moisture ideally. You just have to make a gate of different construction for a quality green oak gate

If I really wanted to make that green out of oak I would slot the clearance holes for the screws so the boards can move freely. Giving it 6 months to dry is a much better shout. But still slot at least one of the holes per board on each horizontal. You will probably find fixings will need tightening up in 6 months so I wouldn't dowel them.

Green or seasoned completely depends on the design of the gate. With the right joints it can be built green but you will have to allow for the shrinkage in the posts. A picture of style of gate would be useful.

Looks good. What you paying for decent oak at the moment?

I wouldn't even use any screws. Just ratchet strap it together. Make sure small bridges to span the trench and prop it with these in 6ft sections. Build a 6ft wall in that section, then prop and dig the next 6ft section

It's not logitudal shrinkage that is the issue it's across the width. Two fixings across the joist will stop the board being able to shrink and it will more than likely crack. Softwood is much more forgiving than hardwood, but whatever green cladding is being fixed only one fixing per batton/stud should be used to eliviate cracking across the width. If I wanted to crack on with green timber I wouldn't be milling ash for the job. Any softwood would be better. 10% shrinkage is a good rule of thumb when drying hardwood but of course not accurate. As I said I allow more when milling oak. I would rather plane another mm off than have saw marks left in a par board.

Remove roof. Ratchet strap under last good board and around top board/plate. Prop up strapped wall with 4x2 temporarily. Dig out in sections underneath and build a wall to support it all. Point up areas where straps are after Everything else has gone off. Depending on design this may be very possible without removing roof.

This is possible but thoughts to how they will be fixed will be needed and acceptance of large gaps when dried. If two fixings where put into the same joist on each board, one at either side, then the boards may crack badly whilst drying as they are not able to shrink. When fixing green timber either one fixing per joist or one fixing and one slotted fixing would be better. Although only one fixing may give you a wonky floor. If it's an unheated garage I would recommend a minimum of 6 months air dry but preferably a full year at least. If it is a heated garage I would air dry for 18 months, or get them kilned. However I would still air dry for 6 months before kiln drying.

It all depends how thick you want the floor boards when finished. This may be decided by the spacing of the joists. As a rule 400mm centers on the joists need 18mm and 600mm centers need 22mm. As it is going to be home milled timber I would be inclined to add a couple of mm on. So say 20 or 24mm depending on centers. Allow to lose 10% of the size in drying. Ash is pretty stable and dries well so shouldn't need too much machining off to flatten. So I would allow 3mm per side I wanted to finish. So 32mm minimum for par 20mm floor boards or 36mm minimum for par 24mm boards. If the logs were oak I would allow extra.

Cheers. Will check it out. Assumed it would be on bbc sounds

Not heard of cabin pressure. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be available anymore.

Spoke about this kitchen repair job a while ago in another thread and some of you helped me identify the wood as American cherry. I now need to try to match the finish so I can do some local repairs and make a few new pieces of timber to match. I've tried all the finishes I have and none of them are close enough for me. I assume it has some sort of spray finish on it. Any ideas on the best way to match this?If it was able to be touched up rather than the whole thing refinished then that would be better. Thanks for the help with this.

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I've got the portek. Good machine.

Nice work

Lucas 8-30

I'm not leaving 20+ks worth of kit on a trailer. And you say im sillyAnd I'm not trying to justify it. Just explaining how I got there

Like I said it's more involved than taking out a woodmizer. There is a lot of individual pieces to load and secure. I don't take a trailer so everything is loaded onto a Ford ranger super cab. You can claim you know how inefficient I am if it makes you feel better but you know nothing of my setup. Parts of the mill are stored in 3 different places on the property. Lots of other equipment to load. If I rush I can get the loading done in a hour but it is usually after a hard days work and I don't charge my time out at rushing around like a blue arse fly. Most of the milling I do is cutting oak beams or huge slabs. Which are all manually moved, I don't charge lightly for this. As I said I don't want to contract mill anyway. My mill is used for my own timber supply and timber sales. Most enquiries I get that I don't pass or refuse, my quotes are accepted, so I think you might be surprised how many people are willing to pay that much. There is also not many people offering the service of a mobile mill to cut plane and thickness 5ft slabs though. You crack on with how you do it but my prices aren't changing. I like to work 3 or 4 days a week and that suits me. For the record I hate bricklaying to and dont do much of it. But it was a good example of another job I can do with very few tools or outlay.

There is another tip there Steve. Easier to link a video Than explain.

For me sawmilling big 4ft plus diameter trees, I would be losing money at £450 a day with the Lucas. I see it like this. I can easily earn £280 to £350 with a trowel and a level in a 5 mile radius of home. So that's my starting rate. Then I charge for the fuel the mill uses£20 Blade costs are in the price excluding metal damage. The Sutton job in question is 1.5 hours drive for me. Each way. Then, Evening before 1.5 hours loading, sorting, buying fuel, checking oil again. After the job 1 hour unloading, blowing off etc. There is probably 2 hours of sharpening/blade repairs to do. Allow 30 mins maintenance on the mill. So that's a days milling, plus 8 hours extra work, plus money back on the mill. What's the point in doing it for less than £600. Irs more involved than taking out a Woodmiser because it isn't trailer mounted. If I'm cutting 5ft diameter oajs into slabs I'm cheap.

I earn that without the mill most days, why would I take £20k worth of kit, sharpening etc etc for the same money?Woodmisers cant mill the trees I can.

My milling rate is £630 a day. I don't do part days. So a couple of small sticks like that gets expensive. Same cost to mill two 20' by 4' cedar if I can do it in a day.