difflock

Since the piece is very 3D and the finish is naturally rough, with bark still clinging on despite vigorous pressure washing, I cannot cannot seek to achieve any sort of gloss or satin finish, I merely wish to preserve the natural reddish colour. Anyone want to comment on the effect of using oxalic acid to restore the natural colour of timber, if it happenes to oxodise on me before I get it sealed? Or how dry does it need to be before I start applying the Osmo oil product? I would have thought it needed to the near the end of the summer, hence my concerns re oxodation. regards, Marcus

Surely it is not beyond the wit o man to design a strong, secure hermatically sealed container, that could be aircraft approved, for to put the properly emptied and vented chainsaw engine in? Just checked, since I had too, as a frequent non-flier, since one is permitted aerosols in checked luggage, why would a 2-stroke engine in an approved sealed container be any different? Scheesh!

Though it was just me, that could find nowt pertaining to this film. Pity.

Very impressive, I presume for the pine nuts, which must have been bloody valuable. I also noted it was an entirely cooperative effort, with all the labour contributing to a single pile. France or Spain, more probably? Any background information?

Sitting in the early afternoon Sun, with the sliding patio door wide open, and still blissfully warm and pleasant in the garden room.(it was 30 unheated deg until I opened the door) And 21 deg plus behind the unheated glass at the front door keeping the Peach tree happy. Post a magnificent lunch of home cooked quiche, washed down with a couple of bottles of London Pride, and anticipating a snooze on my favourite bed of South facing pine needles up the Moss while dog-walking. Did I mention, life is good! Marcus P.S. I will be all clabber and peaty shite later as I furthur pressure wash my root-plate. But life is good!

P.S. Mostly the product of a manic-depressive nature, my positives magnified by, and my negatives stoically lived with, by the 17 girl I met, wooed* and married and the woman she matured into. Unfortunately, I have not as yet matured commensurate with my advanced growth rings. Marcus. P.S. *wooed as in I chased her until she caught me.

Well one does have aspirations . . ., for the next but one, but not yet gestated, generation. Fingers crossed.

Is that another way of saying the purchaser will only leave the very very best trees, that is, taking as many of the acceptably good trees as they can get away with, simply to line their own pockets? Because as a woodland owner, that is how I would understand such wording. My woodland is worthless conifer, but I still know there has to be a clear dichotomy between those who own woodland, and those who earn a living from felling trees and selling timber. Especially if the tree felling party if offering tree felling/tree retention advice to the woodland owner. Regards, Marcus

I really really want to preserve the natural colouration, but that I presume means using vast quantities of resin* Which, for 1 I resent paying for. The other option is creosote which will leave it "near enough" but I will lose the pleasent reddish colour. Or gallons of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain, in Red Cedar perhaps Or allow it to naturally oxodise to the silver grey such pieces exhibit in the various piles in the Moss. *I could make up formwork and pour concrete to the rear, and only use the resin for the front, but that still leaves me with the surface finish issue as I do not imagine it would look right glassy smooth. Having though as I typed the above, tending towards the Osmo solution, and I can still creosote the back for some economy. Regards, Marcus P.S. Ratman mentioned using oil somewhere above, thanks.

All the bog timber hereabouts is referred to as "Fir", and from the fibrous stringy nature of the wood, clearly conifer of some sort. over where I was born, it was all Oak. mth

Yes indeed, I can see that too, 2 dragons tearing a man apart!

Well seeing as the house was built in a field that had been cut-out peatbanks. And there was always a soft spot on the new(ish) access road, which I tasked the diggerman to investigate before I laid any kerbs or paid for any asphalt. And "voila" The diggerman looked perplexed when I asked him to treat it with care and leave to one side.

But how do I preserve it? , a shallow tray(which I have not got) and gallons of creosote spring to mind. I suppose I could stand stand it under cover with the legs in a couple of cut-off 45 gall drums and periodically and liberally douse with creosote, as it naturally dries Nervous of letting it dry/get too dry though. mth

Absolutely non-artistic me, can actually see the makings of a running man in their, & very clearly being attacked by a winged dragon.

see att image, just under 2.0m square, intention is to bolt it to a sturdy galvanised support and artfully mount the 3 digit house number across it as it sits presented. If I can get it sufficiently preserved, it was dug out last spring/summer and left in the grass, and does not appear to have deteriorated any since. I have only so far given a quick pressure was to establish how much was peat, and how much was actually rootplate.

And, perhaps?

see this image; Photo taken looking due north, i.e. glass facing fully due south.

I spoke to the NFU about my intentions to re-engine the "G" Wagen. As long as the replacement engine is not of more cc's than the origional OM617 no odds. So I can go from a 88HP N/A 3.0 litre to a firebreathing 388 HP T/C I/C 3.0 litre beast. No odds. Seriously!

Draw me a diagram of the shear forces and bending moments and how they differ with the plate up or down. The towball is still carrying a vertically applied load when static, and moving, more-so when braking. Plus when moving it is subject to longitudinal acceleration forces, causing a bending moment in the plate carrying the towball. I cannot see how these forces differ due to the low or high mounting of the plate, EXCEPT If the towball was stupidly high it could concievably cause an overturning/lifting moment during braking, and perhaps dangerous when cornering? regardless of braking, but this should be more than counteracted by the excess downforce caused by the load on the trailer rotating the hitch downwards. The mounting bolts should be engineered to withstand forces in any concievable direction. I will now do some independant research. Anyway, intuitively I imagine it has more to do with the stability of the towing vehicle, than any failure of the riser plate. Regards, Marcus

It it was ever finished, its been 22 years and counting, P.S. I am currently looking for a"G" Wagen hearse?

this should work. BTW , having enquired re the cost of putting the wee red 1884 G on the road. I intend to minimally fettle her to go through the MOT, and tax her for 6 months each from Feb to July. Hopefully driving all 3 to our Donegal meet over the late May Bank holiday weekend. The other 2 are already fully road legal already.

see image taken this morning

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