GreenGui

This is an interesting read and does not go down the blind alley of politics, right blaming left and vise versa. As he explains, the issue is far bigger than that. The decline has been occurring for years it is just now that it is reaching the final stages and the deterioration is speeding up. The Cancer Stage of Capitalism: From Crisis to Cure by John McMurtry It's on Amazon but for some reason I can't link to it from here

I've got a few Liquidambar in various hights/sizes and several as big as that and they never just drop their leaves without a colour display first. They are all different every year but the colour seems to vary based on the amount of sun the tree has received during the summer months which as I understand it builds the sugar, giving the colour in Autumn. I would imagine the autumn weather is a factor too but mine always put on a show regardless. To me it looks like that homeowner just needs to wait a little longer, they normally start the colouration at the top and work down, mine here in northern France are currently in their full flush of colour and we are typically about 10 days to 14 days ahead. Agree re soil testing. I put some wood ash at the base of a red oak one year. It took 5 years for the leaves to put on a show of red in the autumn again:blushing:

You need to make it public. Only registered FB users can view it at the mo.

Crazy isn't it. I'm on a Euro 4 without active regen The one that's also known for breaking its crank It is a lovely drivers engine though Boiled down in Isuzu's case it has to come down to cost pure and simple. It always does doesn't it?

The problem exists on all diesels (to a lesser or greater extent) with an active regen cycle that relies on post ignition secondary injection. The technology works fine on things like trucks (indeed thats where it originates from) that spend all day on a motorway and maintain a very high DPF and oil temp but on smaller vehicles doing short trips the DPF never warms up so the active regens fails and cause a vicious cycle. The theory goes that excess diesel should evaporate off (diesel boiling point 190 deg approx.) in the hot sump oil and in a truck, yes. But short trips and cold oil it just sits there and builds up in the sump of smaller passenger vehicle engines. The fix on the latest generation small diesels is to put an injector directly into the DPF and do away with the post ignition injection on the main injectors. Several companies now claim to be able to clean the DPF, it requires more than just a hot air gun unfortunately. The manufacturer stating this is an acceptable state of a fairs makes a mockery of all the manufacturer requirements for fancy (expensive) oil specs IMO.

No Worries - some people talk louder then others on here My research on Subaru diesels indicated that Subaru work to a 10% oil dilution ratio. At this point if active regens are still occurring and this percentage has been reached the DPF light comes on, limp mode and a mandatory trip to the dealers... The ratio is based on counting the number of active regens so by implication they know exactly how much oil slips past the rings on each regen event.

I was too tight to buy a ripping chain and tbh the bar on my old Husky 350 is a bit short for serious milling so I took an old chain and ground the angle down to 15 deg and took "a bit" off all the depth gauges. Nothing scientific. It made an immediate difference and if I was going to pursue milling properly I would look to ripping chain as being part of the investment - along with a bigger bar and chainsaw, some nice ally rails, something to hold the log, Aspen fuel (the fumes really got me) and on and on....

I run a 2008 legacy and use an OBDII plug in Bluetooth code reader with an Android tablet - works a treat. It depends on the model year, tell him to go to the UK legacy forum, its all there.

Awesome. Post a pic big boy:lol:

I cut one of our a landy hedges about 10 years ago and within 30 mins of finishing started getting what I now know are the symtoms. The hedge sits under a canopy of very large oak trees. I learnt that its not just tree work where they are a problem - I've suffered it about 3 times now but this was the worst case for me. The combination of the hedge cutters and brushing off the clippings whilst wearing a T shirt and shorts... Doh!

Yes I do -willow igloo with tunnels. Cut back hard each winter 'treat it mean, keep it keen' There's lots of 'do this, do that' advice but essentially cut back hard, if it has gone over because the previous person was a bit "RHS gardens" i.e starts to get leggy, cut back harder still. Think of it as a pollard or coppice

Know what your going through. Its been a bad year for them. This spring I have had several nests on oaks and pines that I have either cut out or burned off with a blow torch on the end of a pole. The rash reduced after about 24 hours for me.

Now you've added that bit of crucial info, I would tend to agree it could be the coil

I've got a couple of Robin powered bits of kit and find them to be very reliable motors. The only issues I have had are blocked main jet and a stuck float valve on one with a slide carb. If it has sat for years as you say, I would look to the fuel system. Strip and clean and go from there.

Had a WRX years ago as a company car complete with fuel card. Loved it but would not like to pay the fuel bill unless it was a low miles per year toy. I averaged 14.5 mpg over 45k miles. It made going back to a FWD hack feel positively dangerous regards road holding - you get used to its grip and road holding very quickly! Ask your question over on the Subaru Impreza forum, your more likely to get some sound advice.

Oxalic acid. You can (or could) buy it on ebay in powder form. Mixed with water to make a solution and left to soak it eats rust, leaving clean albeit discoloured steel. Here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-KG-Oxalic-Acid-Hull-Deck-GRP-Cleaner-Rust-remover-/222155639950?hash=item33b9820c8e:g:YewAAOSwsFpWR6vn

I understood you. I am not a tool maker, just a bloke who makes them from old mower blades AND files using a coal fired forge. Your description made sense to me but then I was not looking to take cheap shots regarding how you described the process. Leave em with their petit minded, ignorant point scoring.

Carcassone is a fantasic city, we went 2 years ago and are going back this Autumn to visit some of the sites we missed last time. Might be worth thinking about car hire even for a couple of days, there's so much to see. Recommend Las Tours about 20 minutes north and Peyrepertuse to the south east as historic monuments, amazing views and you can explore all over them unlike National Trust monuments in UK. For wine, just to the east/south east there is Corbieres and Fitou. Minervois to the north east, Cabades to the north ans Malepere to the south west. Your spoilt for choice really as they are all good and on the doorstep, our favorite is a Fitou from the Vignerons of Mont Tauch in Tuchan. Stop off at the Tourist Office in Carcassonne and pick up some info re climbing, canoeing, rafting etc. they have all the details and would be happy to help - understandably they are very geared up to tourism and label the region as "Cathare Country". Read the wiki entry before you go re the history of the region and Catharism, gives a background to the region. Lastly if you had a car I would also recommend the coast road south of Perpignan crossing into Spain.

Keep going with your standard bar and chain, if you can carve with that and YOUR pleased with the results then a carving setup will only make you better. Personally I still carve with a Husky 350 on a standard bar, I'm happy with my results and I'm not fired up enough to invest in another saw/bar etc. too many other interests and hobbies but thats just me. Looking good BTW, keep going

Only you know the image of what you want - it's in your head. Just keep going, who's to say if your right or wrong. The fact your having a go is in itself an achievement, thats what I tell myself...

What on earth makes you want to broadcast that to the world on a public Arb forum. Keep that sort of thing between you and your partner or choose the correct forum. Christ I despair!

Defo a good 2 meter plus Pole trimmer, works so much better than any other trimmer, just make sure you pay him the going rate, it's immoral not to.

Actually, thinking about it, aren't you supposed to run the chain loose for carving so it does not overheat? Like you however I always carve with a normal tension chain

Isn't that caused by too loose a chain? "Light use" it might be but its got bloody hot, looks like the header pipes on my Guzzi. Still, like the old T cut joke, "that should file out...":laugh1:

What a great thread, knew about it being used as such but not the method, particularly the bit about the sun and how it flows. Going to give it ago. Thanks:001_smile: