GreenGui

This is an interesting read and does not go down the blind alley of politics, right blaming left and vise versa. As he explains, the issue is far bigger than that. The decline has been occurring for years it is just now that it is reaching the final stages and the deterioration is speeding up. The Cancer Stage of Capitalism: From Crisis to Cure by John McMurtry It's on Amazon but for some reason I can't link to it from here

I've got a few Liquidambar in various hights/sizes and several as big as that and they never just drop their leaves without a colour display first. They are all different every year but the colour seems to vary based on the amount of sun the tree has received during the summer months which as I understand it builds the sugar, giving the colour in Autumn. I would imagine the autumn weather is a factor too but mine always put on a show regardless. To me it looks like that homeowner just needs to wait a little longer, they normally start the colouration at the top and work down, mine here in northern France are currently in their full flush of colour and we are typically about 10 days to 14 days ahead. Agree re soil testing. I put some wood ash at the base of a red oak one year. It took 5 years for the leaves to put on a show of red in the autumn again:blushing:

You need to make it public. Only registered FB users can view it at the mo.

Crazy isn't it. I'm on a Euro 4 without active regen The one that's also known for breaking its crank It is a lovely drivers engine though Boiled down in Isuzu's case it has to come down to cost pure and simple. It always does doesn't it?

The problem exists on all diesels (to a lesser or greater extent) with an active regen cycle that relies on post ignition secondary injection. The technology works fine on things like trucks (indeed thats where it originates from) that spend all day on a motorway and maintain a very high DPF and oil temp but on smaller vehicles doing short trips the DPF never warms up so the active regens fails and cause a vicious cycle. The theory goes that excess diesel should evaporate off (diesel boiling point 190 deg approx.) in the hot sump oil and in a truck, yes. But short trips and cold oil it just sits there and builds up in the sump of smaller passenger vehicle engines. The fix on the latest generation small diesels is to put an injector directly into the DPF and do away with the post ignition injection on the main injectors. Several companies now claim to be able to clean the DPF, it requires more than just a hot air gun unfortunately. The manufacturer stating this is an acceptable state of a fairs makes a mockery of all the manufacturer requirements for fancy (expensive) oil specs IMO.

No Worries - some people talk louder then others on here My research on Subaru diesels indicated that Subaru work to a 10% oil dilution ratio. At this point if active regens are still occurring and this percentage has been reached the DPF light comes on, limp mode and a mandatory trip to the dealers... The ratio is based on counting the number of active regens so by implication they know exactly how much oil slips past the rings on each regen event.

I was too tight to buy a ripping chain and tbh the bar on my old Husky 350 is a bit short for serious milling so I took an old chain and ground the angle down to 15 deg and took "a bit" off all the depth gauges. Nothing scientific. It made an immediate difference and if I was going to pursue milling properly I would look to ripping chain as being part of the investment - along with a bigger bar and chainsaw, some nice ally rails, something to hold the log, Aspen fuel (the fumes really got me) and on and on....

I run a 2008 legacy and use an OBDII plug in Bluetooth code reader with an Android tablet - works a treat. It depends on the model year, tell him to go to the UK legacy forum, its all there.

Awesome. Post a pic big boy:lol:

I cut one of our a landy hedges about 10 years ago and within 30 mins of finishing started getting what I now know are the symtoms. The hedge sits under a canopy of very large oak trees. I learnt that its not just tree work where they are a problem - I've suffered it about 3 times now but this was the worst case for me. The combination of the hedge cutters and brushing off the clippings whilst wearing a T shirt and shorts... Doh!

Yes I do -willow igloo with tunnels. Cut back hard each winter 'treat it mean, keep it keen' There's lots of 'do this, do that' advice but essentially cut back hard, if it has gone over because the previous person was a bit "RHS gardens" i.e starts to get leggy, cut back harder still. Think of it as a pollard or coppice

Know what your going through. Its been a bad year for them. This spring I have had several nests on oaks and pines that I have either cut out or burned off with a blow torch on the end of a pole. The rash reduced after about 24 hours for me.

Now you've added that bit of crucial info, I would tend to agree it could be the coil

I've got a couple of Robin powered bits of kit and find them to be very reliable motors. The only issues I have had are blocked main jet and a stuck float valve on one with a slide carb. If it has sat for years as you say, I would look to the fuel system. Strip and clean and go from there.

Excellent news, well done:thumbup: Don't forget to cancel that new motor!!

Yes, 30 years ago the electro mechanical stuff was straight forward but come the advent of electronics it often comes down to just swopping control units now. Still, at least a new motor will give you ammo to push back if it does not fix the problem - but hopefully it will:thumbup:

Presumably you refer here to the phase connections 'at the wall' so to speak. If everything after that is electromechanical then the only differences swapping phases round should make is a change in direction of the motor. That is true of 3 phase here in France as it is in the UK. If however you have an element of electronic control then it may well be you have to swap over on the input as you describe. I would suggest that if that is the case the actual sine wave of the electric current might be being managed or controlled and in which case it may be that you need to also swap 2 phases at the motor. The controller being phase sensitive on the IP might also mean it is on the OP or motor load. Again, the manufacturer must be able to provide you with a fault diag flow chart! From the way you describe this I am beginning to doubt it is the motor:001_smile:

If that motor Mega's out OK then it can only come down to a supply issue (to the motor). Electro-mechanicals are relatively easy to check and clean etc. but if its modern electronics obviously you would need more details of how they work and a test procedure from the company supplying them.

I would investigate that a bit further. Do you make that phase swap at the motor or on the connections to the machine? If on the motor, unless there is a mechanical reason that prevents the motor turning it should reverse the direction.

For current draw on each phase just use a standard tong ammeter/multi-meter on each of the 3 phases. Presumably this was all done by the electrician installing the machine - its standard practice - I trained and worked as an industrial electrician when I left school. Have you taken voltage (between each phase and earth as opposed to phase to phase) and current readings per phase at the time when the problem occurs?

Have you got another equivalent size machine operating on your supply Big J that proves it good? I know you said it has been tested out OK but... If it Mega's out OK personally I would re-visit the supply. I agree that the current should increase, what you describe is not normal.

First thing I would do is stick a Mega across the windings and check the resistances are all equal or there a bouts. A simple multimeter will not do, it will not give you an indication of the insulation on the motor windings i.e how the windings are behaving with a large current load. Have you checked the running current on each phase and situation the motor is running at or just the current on one phase? Also simultaneously check the voltage on each phase (between phase and neutral or earth) and make sure it stays constant. I have 3 phase and we have supply network issues during the winter. When the load is high the supply voltage drops to 190 volts on each phase and one of my machines (a refrigeration compressor) refuses to start

Had a WRX years ago as a company car complete with fuel card. Loved it but would not like to pay the fuel bill unless it was a low miles per year toy. I averaged 14.5 mpg over 45k miles. It made going back to a FWD hack feel positively dangerous regards road holding - you get used to its grip and road holding very quickly! Ask your question over on the Subaru Impreza forum, your more likely to get some sound advice.

Oxalic acid. You can (or could) buy it on ebay in powder form. Mixed with water to make a solution and left to soak it eats rust, leaving clean albeit discoloured steel. Here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-KG-Oxalic-Acid-Hull-Deck-GRP-Cleaner-Rust-remover-/222155639950?hash=item33b9820c8e:g:YewAAOSwsFpWR6vn

I understood you. I am not a tool maker, just a bloke who makes them from old mower blades AND files using a coal fired forge. Your description made sense to me but then I was not looking to take cheap shots regarding how you described the process. Leave em with their petit minded, ignorant point scoring.