Ty Unnos

Ok I got a reply from Makita U.K. They say they will honour the warranty on a European purchased Dolmar chainsaw as long as all the paper work is correct and there is an equivalent Makita model chainsaw sold in the U.K. Unfortunatley they said they cannot do warranty work on an imported USA chainsaw as they are not CE marked. Seems a shame to honour one but not the other but at least now we know.

Thanks TCD. I have emailed Makita U.K. and asked if they will honour a Dolmar Warranty - I wil let you know what they say! I have seen a couple of websites in Germany that might ship Dolmar chainsaws direct to the U.K. What are the differences between a USA model and European model 5105?

What's the story with the warranty if you import a Dolmar saw? Will Makita U.K. honour the warranty of a Dolmar saw from USA or Europe?

Not specifically forestry but these guys know there stuff: Owen Devenport - Chartered Town Planners and Chartered Property Surveyors in Colwyn Bay, Denbigh and Anglesey, North Wales

Thanks all - sounds like there is no one answer. I know I will need the fail at some point but reckon I could use the topper for this job. I might try and borrow or hire one and see how I get on. One more question. We will probably try and make hay off the same site next year. So a drum mower would make sense as an investment. But how would it cope with the wet / over stood grass from this year? I am guessing it is easier to rake if cut with a drum mower but what are they like on wet long grass?

Yes sheep is the answer but site cannot be made stock proof. Is this the sort of "buckrake" you had in mind? Lawrance edwards 6ft buckrake silage tractor | eBay

Yes I was worried about that. But what are the other options? Will a topper leave it easier to rake? Or I suppose I could use a drum mower but then rake it not bale it. Will a drum mower cope with grass thats been left this late in the year?

Not trees but I bet a few on here also cut grass! I have a 35hp compact tractor. I have been asked to do a job cutting 2 acres of wildlfower meadow. The plan was to make hay but they didnt get around to it so now they just want it cut and raked up to compost on site. Its a nice flat site with no rocks so I thought I could just buy a 5ft topper for this job: Compact Tractors | Small Tractor | Used tractors | Compact Tractors For Sale But I am also keen to get other work and be able to cut scrub, conservation sites woodland rides etc. Which means I am better off with a flail mower right? Flail mower ELITE L - from 19 to 45 KW (25-60 HP) Trouble is they are about 4 times the price of the topper! Anyone else do similar work? What do you use?

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/fctg001.pdf/$FILE/fctg001.pdf

Hi We use a 516 - its a great winch but a tad heavy for some jobs - but it has always been up to the job when we have got something stuck! We have 4 ton snatch block: 4.5" 4 Ton ( 4000 kgs ) Heavy Duty SNATCH BLOCK Swivel HOOK - Pulley Lifting | eBay A couple of these: 3 TON ( 3000 kgs ) 4 METRE Duplex Web Sling Strap - Lifting Strop Reinforced | eBay And a couple of these: 8 Metre x 5 Tonne Endless Round Tested Lifting Sling (4m EWL) | eBay And a bunch of these: 3.25t Blue Pin Tested Shackle | eBay

From my medium trees assessment:

I did my Medium Trees last week. It was great to practice on hardwood (beech) as this is what I am normally felling. A massive thank you to Phil Dunford for the first class training! Chainsaw Training with Phil Dunford : Welcome to Phil's Chainsaw Training Website Here is a video of one of my assessment trees: And a few pics......

Tractors & Agriculture, MOD Sales, Military Vehicles & Used Ex MOD Land Rovers for Sale

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/42360-oregon-yukon-trousers.html

Q2. What if my trees are older and greater than 1.3 m in height? Recommendation: Cut, treat stumps and optionally burn Cutting and immediately treating cut stumps is likely to be the most cost effective option for older plants greater than 1.3 m in height. All stumps should be cut below the lowest live branch, but left tall enough to be visible. Treatment: Cut trees and apply a 10% solution of a 360 g/l glyphosate or similar product to the cut stumps. Ensure you follow the application rates detailed on the product label. (Further guidance is provided in FC Field Book 8 – The use of herbicides in the forest.) Disposal: Cut stems and branches may be left in situ, or be disposed of by burning on site for improved biosecurity. This is the preferred option, where allowed, under legislation on smoke control areas and subject to the potential risk of smoke nuisance. Chipping of whole trees or branches and leaving the chipped material on site is not currently a recommended treatment for infected sites because of uncertainties over the risk that this may have in spreading the disease. However, chipping and removal for use as biofuel is safe, as long as the material is removed quickly from the site, and stored under cover, or dried to <20% moisture content, before burning. Timing: Cut and spray in November – mid March for optimal control, avoiding the period of spring sap flow. Applications at other times are also possible, but are likely to be somewhat less effective, particularly during April – early June. Where it is intended to immediately burn the arisings then treatment in the period July-September/October is preferable to waiting until November as it will destroy the current season’s leaves before autumn fall. Application: Applications should be made to saturate the stump surface, paying particular attention to the outer circumference of the stump containing the phloem. Avoid run off to surrounding ground. Applications should not be made to frozen stumps. Ideally, for optimum control spraying should take place within 1 hour of cutting, although a reduced level of control may still be possible if applications are made within 24 hours of cutting. If spraying cannot take place within these time frames, the stems should be re cut prior to application. The use of a dye marker such as Dysol Turquoise (50% Acid Blue 9) @ 2% of final spray volume can be helpful in ensuring all cut stumps are properly treated. Monitoring: Signs of re-growth from the stumps should be monitored and a repeat treatment made if necessary. Product: Examples of suitable effective herbicides for cut stump treatments include Montsanto Roundup (Pro Biactive, 360 g/l glyphosate); and Dow AgroSciences Triclopyr (Timbrel, 480 g/l triclopyr;). From here: Forestry Commission - Chalara ash disease - Disposal and removal And more here: Forestry Commission - Plant Health - Chalara grants and guidance

Sorted - Aspen you really should do more to promote this product: HUSQVARNA ASPEN ENVIROMENTAL Kit - Accessories/Lubricants Buy Petrol Cans and Mixing Jugs Buy UK

I have a fill partner.... But how do I get hold of the gizmo to turn my 5L can into a combi can?

BBC News - Wentwood Forest: Larch disease felling in ancient woodland

And here: Lesson Five - Winching | Woodlot Management - Home Study Program

Lots of useful stuff in here: http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/fctg001.pdf/$FILE/fctg001.pdf

Rebuilds and the law - by Glencoyne 4x4 (Thetford)

Most vegetable oil sold in supermarkets is made from rapeseed oil. The one to avoid is sunflower oil. Just read the label and makes sure it is 100% rapeseed. Also if you are switching from mineral oil don't mix the two - make sure the tank is empty of mineral before you fill with vegetable. I have been using veg oil for three years no problem.

£4.50 sound fine if selling direct. We sell the small Sellway bags as a 2.5kg bag at £4.00. You can try and get 3kg in the small bag but with some batches of charcoal it can be tricky to get 3kg to fit in the bag. We also like to overfill to avoid underweight bags so our 2.5kg is actual 2.7-2.9kg. If selling to a shop they will want it cheaper so they can make their margin.

You mesh sounds fine - I am still only doing small batches myself so have not sorted out a proper sieve / grader. I use something like this to empty my kiln which sieves as I go: Draper 10 Prong Potato Fork with Wood Shaft and MYD Handle GARDEN TOOLS | eBay The only other thing is looking after the charcoal once bagged. If you are rough its all going to turn to powder anyway so treat it with care.

Yes we buy the plain ones and then print our own logo on them. There may be cheaper suppliers out there.... What makes it expensive is the delivery - unless you buy in loads of bags at once. Also you need a decent pliers stapler - and there not cheap!