Ty Unnos

Hi All I am registered self employed and have CS30 and 31. Three scenarios: 1. I am working at home (1/2 acre plot) felling trees for firewood / laying hedge etc. There is a public footpath that crosses our land. Do I need insurance? What else do I need to think about? 2. I am working alone in a woodland that I own felling / cutting firewood? There is no public access. Do I need insurance? What kind? Anything else? 3. I am working on a neighbours land. I am not being paid for work but am sharing the firewood with them. Do I need insurance? What kind? Anything else? All advice welcome!

Hi All Just to say I passed CS30 and 31 this morning using my 346xpg. I bought the 346xpg based on the advise in this thread so just wanted to say thanks to all who contributed. It took me a while to get to grips with the 346 - it cut so fast I often went straight through a hinge or it would climb in a boring cut and come out the top. Once I got to grips with it I really started to appreciate power and balance. If any other beginner are thinking of getting one I can recommend the 346xp for CS30/31. Only thing I would change is I would have put a 13" bar on it and not the 15" I had. Smaller is easier to control and less bar to worry about when snedding. And can now appreciate the comments about no safe chainsaws - only safe users. Cheers

Hi John I share your thoughts - I would love to own a wood as stunning as the beech wood but am not sure it is practical. I really do want a working wood. I think what I am probably after is something a bit more mixed. Maybe a small block of conifer with some broadleaf mixed in? I could slowly clear the conifers and get some coppice going. Or even some naturally regenerated broadleaf. Either way some thing that was less pretty but cheaper! I would love some sweet chestnut coppice but that seems fairly rare in North Wales.

Hi. Thanks for the information about Freedom Wood. Looks like I had my facts mixed up a bit! Can I ask if you use your 21 acres as part of your firewood business? I presumed that as smaller woods go for a premium it would make it uneconomical to try and use them as part of a business. Do you have other similar sized woods which all contribute firewood?

Hi - Thanks for the link. That wood is very local and is a stunning beech wood on limestone. My concerns are that it is expensive: 65K for 11 acres. Does that sound a lot to people? My feeling is that for a bit more money (100K) I should expect a lot more wood. It also has a restrictive covenant that I don't like. The whole wood used to be owned by the Forestry Commission but was sold off to woodlands.co.uk and broken up into little chunks. It's all locked gates and keep out signs now. Maybe a taste of things to come if the FC break up goes ahead in England.

The rules are here: Agricultural, horticultural and forestry vehicles exempt from vehicle tax : Directgov - Motoring And some examples here: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0CEQQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fcustoms.hmrc.gov.uk%2FchannelsPortalWebApp%2FdownloadFile%3FcontentID%3DHMCE_PROD1_029747&rct=j&q=agricultural%20vehicles&ei=g09QTfjAOIimhAf70L2NDw&usg=AFQjCNFaw7bMpMbgvVPEl_qA4NXS-KIJKw&cad=rja

Hi John Sorry to hear it took 8 years to get your barn. Was it for agriculture or forestry? Why did the planners refuse the permitted development? Did they claim it was not 'necessary'? Of course you are right - the planners are not 'supposed' to say no to permitted development but they do still seem to try and find a way to refuse usually by claiming you do not meet the criteria.

Permitted development rights for farming and forestry drive the planners mad. Its what allows farmers to build so many barns / buildings when no one else can build in the open countryside. The planners are simply not allowed to say no! (as long as certain criteria are met) You don't tend to see as many buildings going up for forestry purposes - maybe because the margins on woodland do not justify the cost of a building?

Hi If they claim the road is for 'forestry purposes' they can put it in with permitted development rights. This means they do no need full planning but still need to submit a 'prior notification' to the council before they go ahead with the work. Some details here: Woodland Planning Legislation and here: Wodland Planning System Hope this helps.

Hi John I am also looking to buy woodland (North Wales). I have similar aims to you - a bit of firewood for myself and extended family and maybe some coppice and charcoal. I am aiming for 20 - 50 acres and hoping for broadleaf but may go for conifer if there is some broadleaf mixed in. I would hope to be able to make a small amount of profit from my wood - maybe £5k - £7k a year based on 2 - 3 days a week work. Does anyone who does something similar know how realistic a return this is?

I think you might also be able to get the ms200 rear handle in Ireland. It's listed here under Mid-range saws for professionals: Irish Grass Machinery | Stihl > Chainsaws Can anyone confirm?

Thanks Presumably if you pick up a top handle one you can also convert it to rear handle for £60? Makita top handled chainsaw - not stihl MS200T on eBay (end time 30-Jan-11 15:29:16 GMT)

Hi That looks like a nice saw. Can I ask what kind of work you plan to use it for? I am still thinking of getting a small saw for coppice work / hedge laying etc.

Hi All Thanks for the replies. Regarding the saw vs trousers: I am hoping I will be ok with type C / class 1 trousers. I believe the class 1 bit means they are rated to 20m/s. Now the 346xp has a max chain speed of 18.5m/s The 357xp has a max chain speed of 21.4m/s so in theory you need class 2 or above trousers.

Hi All, I have ordered a 346xpg with 15" bar. Been doing some background reading and it looks like the 346xp can run a 1.3mm narrow bar or a 1.5mm bar. Also there seem to be different chains: H30 for the 1.3mm bar. Or H21, H25, H28 for the 1.5mm bar. Does anyone know what the 346xp is fitted with as its stock bar and chain? In the USA it seems to come with the 1.3mm bar and H30 low kickback chain. If this is the same in the UK is this the right set-up for a user with little experience doing CS30 / 31? Cheers

Hi All Many thanks for all the advice. This is what I went for in the end: Husky Helmet. Husky Wellies. Oregon Gloves. Oregon Classic type C trousers. I went for the Oregon trousers as they were cheaper and I wanted type C and found them the best fit. The idea would be to invest in a more expensive pair of type A trousers once I have a bit more experience. I went for wellies in the end as they are cheaper and I am based in Wales! Again I will invest in boots when I have bit more experience. And the best bit: I went for a Husky 346XPG. I will let you know how I get on once I have had a play with all the new kit!

Hi Does someone have the details of this auction. Where / when etc? Are the lots online somewhere? Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. Its given me a really good idea of what to try and what to avoid. Does anyone know of a place that stocks this gear in North Wales? I have been to Corwen Forestry who have some stuff but not all. They can order stuff in but I would really like to try out different options before I buy. Also are the any recommendations for trousers at the cheaper end of the market. I prefer baggy rather than the tight fit stuff as I am on the chunky side! What are the Oregon Classic Green ones like? or has any one tried the Stihl Value Plus or Forestwear Classic trousers? And I might have to go for wellies to start with. The only time it stops raining around here is when it snows!

Hi Guys Thanks for all the replies I am only looking for ground gear for now. I cant see myself climbing any time soon. Does that mean I only need the type A trousers? Are type A ok for CS30/31

Hi Again, Trying to get my head around what PPE I should buy for my CS30 / 31 next year and afterwards. I have little experience as yet and I will not be climbing so am looking for gear for a beginner on the ground. Helmet - Are all makes the same? The place near me sells the husqvarna one. Is it good enough? Gloves - Protection on one hand or both? Again are the husqvarna gloves any good? Trousers - Conflicting advice on this one. Do I only need type A as I will not be climbing, or do I need type C as I am complete beginner and am likely to do something stupid! Boot or Wellies. I am sure the boots are way better but they are around £175. The wellies are £50. I am tempted to go for wellies on cost alone but do people actually use them? The guy in the store told me people wear the wellies in winter and boots the rest of the year. Is this true? Jacket - As a beginner I like the idea of a protective jacket. I know its not required but did anyone actually wear one when they started out? All advice appreciated.

Hi Gordon You could try volunteering with your local wildlife trust or conservation group. They are always doing stuff like hedge laying, coppicing etc and don't usually use all the wood they cut. I have been involved with several groups and they were happy to let volunteers go home with a boot load of wood in return for a days effort. Good luck with it!

Hi guys. Great advice thanks. So if the saw is dangerous its my fault and if its heavy it because I am a pussy! I think I am going to like it here. Guess its time to stop being a whimp and get the pro saw. So down to business: 346xp or ms261. I like the idea of heated handles and have found a place which will sell me a 346xpg for £440 + vat. It is a about £100 less than the first place I tried so think I have done ok. I am tempted by the ms261 but am wary of the 'new' technology and electronics. Is the 346xp going to be cheaper and easier to repair? I also like the sound of the reduced emissions but it depends if it really makes any difference when using it. Is there going to be much noticeable difference to the operator between the 346 and 261 in terms of fumes and emissions? Or is a face full of petrol fumes just part of the fun! I also like the sound of the 13 inch bar to begin with but what practical differences does the shorter bar make. I guess lighter and more manoeuvrable but what is the down side?

Hi All I am just getting started and am doing my CS30/31 in the new year. I have been looking into getting my first chainsaw. What I cannot decide on is what size saw is right for a complete beginner. The advise on this forum seems to be something like an MS260 or 346XP as a good start. My problem is that when I go into the local chainsaw place and ask about a 346XP they look at me like I am mad and try and sell me a non-pro saw. Would I be better off with a 30cc or 40cc saw to begin with and then work up to a 50-60cc saw once I know what I am doing. Is a lighter / less powerful saw going to be safer? Easier to handle? Less likely to kick? Do less damage if it does! I will not be climbing but will be doing plenty of coppice work and hedge laying so a small saw might not be a complete waste as I could have a second saw for felling. What do you reckon?

If you are in Wales you can get 75% of your course fees paid for by these guys: Focus on Forestry First You have to be self employed and pay a £75 fee but can get up to 3K a year for courses. They are paying for my CS30 and 31 plus the assessment as well as a woodland management course. Give them a call and see if you are eligible.