spudulike

Nice, Cantonese style...little chilli kick!!

If we didn't feed the birds, the rats would still be there but we wouldn't see them. It isn't a problem for me, got a couple of decent rifles that will dispatch a rat very easily. The bird food falls from the holders on to the ground and usually the fat pigeons hoover it up and the odd rat that turns up doesn't last long! I am sure most of the people in the village would say that they couldn't possibly have rats...really They aren't under my shed....anymore

And me....a big bugger eating the bird food, got him smack in the head, no chance of escaping

I stapled damp course membrane on my raised garden wood after the first lot rotted after a few years. Seems OK so far after a couple of years.

I always thought No 6 was sweet and sour chicken

My generic oil issue check.....flush the tank with a bit of Diesel/Petrol/Spirit, Check the pickup pipe and attached filter - pop a bit of WD40 down it and make sure it comes out of the filter - do not use an airline on it as it will BURST!!! Inspect the pinion oil pup drive gear, it is easy to miss damage so inspect for a flat on the worm thread and also look at the start of the thread and follow it whilst rotating the gear, I have had one where the thread was broken and ran in to itself instead of completing the path to the end of the pump thus stopping the pump rotating. FInally, blast some WD40/cleaner in one end of the pump and expect it to come out of the other freely if the housing is worn or less freely if it is in good order but.....you should beg some through. Blasting with a compressor is fine, wigling any blockage out with a pin is an option and, depending on the pump, you can often see a blockage or see the pump shaft if it is OK. Blockage is more likely to happen on the pickup/Input side. This should fix most pump issues. Pump housings do wear to the point they stop working, the initiated can tell from blowing down a pit of fuel pipe pushed against the pump input or outlet holes.

This is the tool ADW mentioned. If you have an old socket of the correct dimensions, you can fabricate one yourself! Make sure you take the recoil cover off when removing and refitting the clutch as the pawls locate in the recoil pulley unlike many other saws. I personally find the Stihl piston stop, one of the best - that is the dog bone double ended one. Never use a metal screw in type as it is likely to crack the crown of the piston. Puller for Husqvarna 445, 450, 455, 460 Chaisnaws - 502 54 16-03 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Puller / Koppling Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 502 54 16-03 Suitable for the Following Application's: 340, 345, 346, 350, 351, 353, 445, 450, 455, 460

But......new saws are run on Alkalyte fuel in the factory as you can smell it in the tank on new machines.....just saying what I have found!

Yeah, but there is "adjusted" and "ADJUSTED"!!! Not sure I can describe these BRs as being adjusted.

PCP air rifle and a good telescopic has done a few in my back garden. Poison and traps if you don't fancy a shooting party. They are partial to peanut butter and bacon for the traps! Terriers/Jack Russells are formidable ratters!

It is strange but....it has wiped this fella out, taken me a long while to get them sorted. The MS150 was pretty normal and a re-tune sorted it within minutes but these blowers were something else! definitely carb related and no retune was going to get them running correctly!! Just read your post again....the 881 must be just a few months old....probably the reason it is OK!!

Following on from this, I have a local customer who purchased a drum of Aspen and most of his kit now has running issues. His MS150T stopped idling and would stall - that was the easy one, richen up the L screw and speed up the idle - bingo. BR700 & BR600 back pack blowers - one would pop but not run, the other dead. Had the BR700 apart, adjust the tappets which I always do and went through the carb - clean the strainer, cleaner down the H&L screw hole etc. It would now run flat out but the low speed part of the carb was dead, no idle. I had to resort to the ultrasonic cleaner, strip the carb right down and then clean it for 40 mins with a bit more carb cleaner in the H&L screw holes half way through. This did it and the machine worked so repeated on the BR600 and had the same result. All I can think is the Aspen purged something from the tank and whatever it was, stopped the carb check valve working or blocked the low speed carb circuit. I have had this before but not had to resort to the US cleaner before. No doubt I will get a lot more of his kit through over the next few days

As much as I like the bloke for championing the underdog, he doesn't do the Pensions, ISAs, share thing on his TV program and openly states so. As much as saving £125 on your yearly heating bill is good, cracking on with a pension as young as possible and making as much use of tax free investments is a much bigger game changer if done earlier enough in life.

Someone has taken the "Delete Gasket" at face value and done just that. It is a common mod to the 372XP but....you must use liquid gasket otherwise you will lose crankcase pressure and vacuum ie....an air leak! You have two options, degrease both surfaces and use a suitable liquid gasket or fit a new gasket. You will lose a bit of compression if you put the gasket back - circa 15-20psi.

I had a mint one through a few years back, almost unused. Serviced and sold to a good friend.....nice machine!

Then phone them, they will get in what you need if it isn't listed on the site but is available from Stihl!

Good subject this and congratulate you on sorting it out and hope your ethic flows down to your kids through their lives. 20 years is a good long time to save money over and compound growth is your friend. Compound growth is where you re-invest your earnings through dividends, interest or whatever and it increases the pot so has a much stronger impact than taking an income. I would stick the £4K in an equity ISA as they are a great way of tax free saving, the money going in may be taxed but when you have a good large pot, you can take money out with no tax implications. A decent ISA should be able to double its value every 7 years so in 21 years you should be able to double your £4k and double that then double that in the 21years period. There are no guarantees to this as equity can go up or down but long term, it makes a lot of sense. You may like to start in relatively safe European and UK funds but as they get bigger, look at China, Japan, Tech and North American funds. ISAs or its forerunner PEPs were predominantly UK based funds but that has now expanded. One caveat to this is that equity has had a long bull run so you could wait a bit and invest if you see a major decline in share price but.....you have to be in it to see the growth over time! Personally I would avoid any funds managed by banks etc. Do your research, select a fund and invest through a platform such as Interactive Investor as they charge very low administration fees but they will NOT advise you. My late father did exactly this for my nieces and £1000 grew to £6k in under 18 years....work it out!!!

Yup, looks like it...it has a torch light when you turn it on, it beeps when its near metal and faster when closer plus it vibrates as well Found this on eBay.....it will be a Chinese seller but with you in a week..... Metal Detector GP-POINTER Pin Pointer Water-Resistant HandHeld Gold Pinpointer WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 1 PC × Detector. Size: Approx. 215.5 41.5 43.52mm. Working Environm ent: Temperature -20 ℃ -60 ℃. 1 PC × User Manual. 1 PC × Leather Case. 1 PC × Pinhole. The sensitivity distance...

Sorry, missed your post. It is branded "GP Pointer". It looks like the Garrett pointer which is much counterfeited so watch out for fake ones if you see a bargain one. I have used it a fair bit over the last few years and helps direct you where to dig once you have a bit of a hole and can't tell exactly where the metal is.

They don't hold as much charge, short burst of energy and they are depleted unlike a battery/cell.

The CS4PI is a beach detector. PI detectors don't get effected by the mineral changes from dry to wet sand as many other detectors do. They have very deep detection, are a bit weird when you first try them if you are used to other machines but they go very deep but no discrimination like VLF based machines that can. On those "magic carrot" hand held pinpointers, they are useful when on the beach and the Chinese copies are actually quite good for the money!

Something like this - just tap the hole first and use a little permanent stud lock on it...... STAINLESS STEEL SLOTTED SELF TAPPING THREADED INSERTS NUTS M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK M8 x 15 – 10.6 – 10.8. M4 x 8 – 5.8 – 5.9. · M2 x 6 – 3.8 – 3.9. M4 x 8 – Int – 0.70 Ext – 0.75. M2.5 x 6 – 4.1 – 4.2. M8 x 15 – Int – 1.25 Ext – 1.50. M6 x 14 – 8.6 – 8.8. M2 x 6 – Int...

With oiling issues I normally make sure the oil pimp isn't plugged with fine wood chip, make sure the pinion oil gear isn't shredded, check the oil pickup pipe (if fitted) isn't blocked and flush the oil tank. If the oil is getting to the pump, the pump is pumping and the oil pinion is turning the pump, you usually have oil flow. I think this is the IPL for your saw: - https://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/951_IPL.pdf I would assume that "sump plug" is a pre filter for the oil pump and probably draws the oil through that filter.

Good method, often works well.

Not sure what a "40" is like but the only one I have done had a worn oil pump and the whole engine had to come out to get to it. very poor design from this perspective. Never again, just not worth the time and effort! As Mark said............ball ache!