spudulike
-
Posts
14,795 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
I think from your posting, you are getting the H &L screws mixed up with your needle valve. The needle valve regulates the fuel pulled up from the tank and held in the metering section of the carb above the diaphragm, to check the needle, the metering arm, spring and needle needs to be removed and this can only be done by removing the diaphragm and diaphragm cover! I would say that your needle either needs a clean or replacement, I recently had one where the metal part of it had corroded and the plating was stopping the thing moving properly. Put a tube on the fuel pipe, suck it and seal the end with your tongue, if it holds pressure then it is probably OK, if it doesn't then the needle is faulty. This is a very basic test as this circuit operates at a higher pressure but can find faults in this area. Yours are classic signs of needle valve problems - also check for muck behind the diaphragm cover - much less likely but a possible problem.
-
Just for the record and in no way wanting to put pressure or dictate a view - the 024 had wear on the inlet side and this is down to ingestion of woodchip through the air filter - the bottom end feels solid and the rest of the saw looks in very good condition considering the age. I don't know if a better filter is available for these saws - got the wire mesh one - haven't investigated yet!
-
The most likely cause of this is a needle valve that is stuck open in the carb, also possible is sawdust lodged between the diaphragm and the cover but less likely. You will need to pull the carb off - a quick check is to attach a tube to the fuel inlet and see if you can blow down the tube - it should hold pressure!
-
Just got the new piston in the MS460 - good compression but noticed the pressure was dropping 1psi per minute, bit faster than I would like so traced the leak back to the crank case seal behind the clutch - it was popping a little. Gave it the soapy water once the oil pinion was off and bingo - it is leaking.....within Stihl specs but would be false economy to leave it so got new ones on order. Not what I wanted but at least it is a fault that could have caused the heat seize in the first place.
-
Yup - you will lose some low end grunt but have higher chain speed - the low end grunt seems more useful.
-
Sometimes you can clemp it in a vice with a couple of blocks os wood either side of where the bar stud holes are but generally it is easier to put it back on the bar studs and pull the brake handle back firmly!
-
The Stihl part is 1129 640 2004 which is 7T, 6T is standard so you may well need a new worm drive pinion gear - part 1129 640 2052 plus a new bar and chain. TO me it doesn't make sense at all as all the MS200Ts I have had in have been running 3/8 1.3 12" - 14" bars with 6T sprockets - much easier to find spares!
-
Thought work had found out how to block this site - me as well:001_rolleyes:
-
Chain speed, more teeth = higher chainspeed but on an MS200, you will need to change the oil gear/pinion, you will lose some of the low end grunt when fitting a larger 7 tooth sprocket, that's if you can get hold of one as 6T is the most common one fitted. You may get away with it better on a 12" bar with a 7T sprocket than a 14" bar.
-
If it is smokey it sounds like it is running rich, a holed air filter would make it run weak:confused1: A fluctuating idle could be a number of issues to do with the carb and are unfortunately all too common with these saws. If the saw struggles to pick up or the idle increases in pace - be very cautious of air leaks - common with the carb boot. The spark arrestors are only fitted on the open sided exhausts!
-
An easy out is by far the best idea - try to drill it out as central as possible and that way if the easyout fails, you can open up the hole and re-tap it. I believe it is a T5 (5mm) thread. If this fails, use a helicoil as a last option - done all three in my time - all work:thumbup:
-
Right - the 394 is now back together again, pressure checked which was fine, have run it up and it idles and revs fine, next stage is putting on a bar and tuning the carb which has been stripped and cleaned. After 30 secs of running, compression is 150psi which is encouraging:thumbup:
-
Just pressure checked it and fired it up - revs fine, just needs the normal carb tune - nice saw and the body doesn't show the same wear as the cylinder - reckon the previous owner didn't clean the filter off regularly! Will give you a price once it is all 100% and when your MS390 is done:thumbup:
-
That dark brown fluid is seizing juice:thumbdown:, the petrol has broken down the two stroke oil and left it with zero lubricating properties. Hopefully the new carb kit will do it - I would check the fuel pipe, filter, impulse line (not sure if it has one - not had one apart) and the carb boot - if any are holed then replace them. Any sign of a racing idle and the crank seals may need replacing! Good luck
-
Personally my choice of weapon is the Stihl double ended plastic tool for small bore saws which are not particularly hard to shift and then use rope on the real difficult and larger ones. I have only ever needed to use an impact drive on a saw once and that was on a 038AVS with a clutch that I don't think had ever been off - nothing would shift it appart from a direct drive and turning action of an impact drive. I don't like using too much force in this area as you can break the end of the crank off if you abuse it:thumbdown:
-
Some of the yanks leave them on all the time - more the tuned and ported ones rather than workhorses - that way you can get the revvs in the cut! You will need one capable of reading up to 20K rpm and a refresh of 0.5 seconds.
-
Got a Stihl 024 I aquired, low on compression and running badly, whipped of the head and found this, I now have a new P&C kit - the saw will be up fpr sale later if anyone is interested!
-
Got Windfalls MS390 on the bench, he thoughtfully cracked the connector on the plastic engine cradle for the oiler elbow. A new engine cradle would be rather expensive so got a small piece of stainless tube and drilled out both the broken part (I broke it off to effect the reapir) and the casing and inserted it in both - looks strong and will definitely last.
-
Sounds about right, had a bad bout two years ago, the temperature was so high, my eyes wouldnt stop watering - if I could, I would have taken them out and put them in cold water:lol: The only time I felt right was in bed with the heated blanket on full tilt, probably not the best thing but every joint ached and a trip to the loo wore me out - this was no man flu:thumbdown:
-
Does any one know if Stihl force this in the US? The US is the worlds biggest market and funnily enough the only Stihl website to have online manuals available. Mortens version sounds about right, having worked for a German company for 29 years it all sounds a bit famillier - the company forcing their practices on the public but then having to bend the rules in the US as they wont take any rap:001_rolleyes: In our company all of Europe has to purchase products from our German HQ but the yanks do their own thing!
-
Thats frothy man:lol: shows the importance of pressure checking the crankcase - if it had been run like this - bang:thumbdown: Good work!
-
My father has had one for 25 year, it is an inset one and gives out damn good heat and is well built so thumbs up from our family:thumbup:
-
Dishwasher.....my wife would kill me if I did that, been tempted many times though:lol: Nice little haul - service agents are limited to OEM spare prices and one mans junk is anothers gold!
-
Have now had the cylinder off the 056 Stihl, the piston is a little scored on the inlet and out let side. It looks like a bit of carbon or light seizure on the exhaust side and an ingestion of sawdust on the inlet side. Now got a piston on order, couldn't get a Meteor or Episan as they come in at 52mm and this is 54mm. A light hone with some wet and dry and a new piston should get some good compression readings.
-
Sounds like you have a carb from a MS181/171 on your saw as they have no H setting!
