spudulike

Lucky you didn't take something out or hurt yourself:001_rolleyes: Hope it is running OK now!

Because I have been having a long dialogue about a saw I sold to him that needed some tweaking and wanted to pass on some info specifically to him. Don't worry, we weren't talking about you:001_tt2: Think I said the blower should have a gasket as you can see the impression of where it was, told him there was a carb on ebay for £15 and that I would remove the spring to fix the carb plus gave some advice on how to clean the cylinder and brought him up to date on his saw - nothing more inclandestine than that - I will now have to kill everyone who reads this:lol: Oh - I also said that an aftermarket P&C for the blower may be difficult to find. Feel free to add anything you may like - been wondering where you have been hiding:laugh1:

Don't worrk about it, there is an age old argument between what is best, the Husky 346XP or the Stihl 026/MS260, Husky upped the 346 from 45 - 50cc, stihl upped theirs to keep up. All depends on what you like, my brother loves his 026, I love my 346 - both are well made and feel well balanced, the 346XP develops more power, has better AV IMO but don't want everyone having a go as that is my own opinion - both are very popular as good groundsaws depends if you prefer orange or orange and grey:001_rolleyes:

Season two years, mix with a bit of softwood and give it a little more air. Lasts a long time in the fire and gives off good heat. Try cutting it a bit smaller?

Ash - will mail you about your new projects:thumbup:

Should he stay or should he go, if he stays there could be trouble but if he goes there will be double, so come on and let me know............ Good track that - Clash....nice:thumbup: Bored with this now:001_rolleyes:

Busy day today, sorted out the 020T and it is now running sweetly - it was the impulse hole in the carb boot misaligned with the carb not giving enough fuel to the carb. Finally sorted out the Frankensaw 268, sorted out all its little problems and is now ready to go. Tach tuned the 020, the Stihl MS650 and my own ported 346XP - all fine now. Been reassembling my own Husqvarna 254 that will be up for sale soon, the picture below shows why people send saws to me - the pressure check failed and has been traced back to the crank seal on the clutch side - you can see the bubbles in the soap solution that I have used to source the leak. I have had people say that putting a new P&C on is easy - it is if everything goes well but it is problems like this that the inexperienced will miss and will fry their new parts in minutes:thumbdown: Just got the fun job of removing that brass pinion now:001_rolleyes:

If you are that bothered by the bulb, just fit the older style top cover, take out the bulb and seal the pipes! It does help after it has run out of fuel but you soon forget it when the saw hits 14,000RPM and starts wailing:thumbup:

346XP - ring ting ting:thumbup:

Or even a trillion:001_rolleyes:

Just seen the full clip on TV and urge all to see it, basically he said the strike was great as London was quiet on the roads (it was here as well) and then he said being the BBC he better address the balance and said all strikers should be shot - it was just his unique sense of humour and was said in a normal "Top Gear" type of way. Looks like the press have again blown an innocent remark all out of proportion. Me - I lost my final salary pension when Osama flew planes in to the Twin Towers and the shares collapsed, I was fortunate that the company owner bailed out the fund before selling the company. The pension is now frozen, I have a crappy stakeholder and now have to change it again due to Government legislation - I gather 2/3rds of the UK population don't even have a pension. I have had one 2% rise in 6 years and am not on that great a wage compared to many. So.....whose having a hard time - the public sector:confused1: Think some should wake up and smell the coffee IMO

The clock is pretty much finished, keeping pretty good time but like saws, need a little bedding in as it is probably 80 - 100 years old and hasn't run for a while - the escapment had been knockjed out of adjustment - this is the bit that allows the big main spring to gradually unwind through a ticking motion controlled by a number of gears and a very fine spring that oscillates. It was missing one foot that someone had thoughtfully replaced with a big golden bead:001_rolleyes: and now has four nice new smaller brass feet:thumbup: I think the wood is inlayed Walnut and the glass is unusually bevelled around the face.

Got a Stihl 020 back, sold it a while ago and the new owner has been complaining of problematic ideling when warm and bogging. It has the old Zama carb so no it isn't the usual accelerator pump issue. I like to have problems like this resolved and the saw up an running ASAP, unless it is obvious owner damage, all work will be free of charge - got a reputation to maintain and it should have been right but sometimes isn't easy to find hot running issues despite 20 minutes of warm up whilst tach tuning, letting it cool overnight and a final run up. I have found a little piece of dirt in the impulse, some fine dust in the carb gauze filter and a welch plug that looks like it has been out at some stage as it is dented and the glue sealing it came out with a prod. I have ultrasonically cleaned the carb, resealed the welch plug as in the last image, inspected the H&L screw seats that look fine, inspected the screws and given the carb a good going over - will try it out over the weekend and will cut some wood with it after I am happy it picks up OK. Top image is before the plug has been sealed and after cleaning

Yes, did AGG221s 066 a while ago - left a tank of Aspen in it and was impressed with the lack of fumes:thumbup: Fired up the Husky 268 yesterday and the exhaust cleared in seconds - not condoning firing up engines in confined spaces but it helps for when you need to make sure a saw will fire and start or when fueling/using solvent cleaner.

Bang goes the Christmas card from the neighbours once you fire that up:thumbup:

Not put in a conveyor in yet - got a nice new ventilation system - misses got fed up with me filling the workshop with smoke:laugh1: I try to keep the saws rolling through:thumbup:

Mmm - got two on the shelf and a spare cylinder....... The guys on here keep me too busy - just got too much on always - just fitted ventilation in the workshop so I can test saws a bit without pissing the neighbours off! The 346 is loud though the misses can hear it 1 & 1/2 miles away:001_rolleyes:

Very close to hitting your log pile with my ported and muffler modded one:thumbup: been tweaking the carb needle arm height to get a bit more fuel in to it as it was a bit boggy at low revs, got a new diaphragm to fit and will re-tach to a conservative 14,500rpm:001_rolleyes: and give it another blast - got to say it races through the wood and sounds great. Whats your money on, your 357 or my 346:lol:

Got the piston on the MS650 - putting the cylinder back on was a real tight fit, wasn't happy about this as it was tight on turning it over so pulled it down again and found the ring to location pin fit was poor so took a little metal off the rings and all went back together much nicer. So be warned people - had this twice now on the lower price pistons and leaving it would have caused premature wear and not spotted by the novice! Compression is 140psi pressure and vac tests 100%

Hop[efully it makes a difference - having the chain too tight will stretch the chain, wear the bar/sprocket and sprocket bearing:thumbdown:

IMO, something isn't right - it sounds a little like the chain is over tensioning on doing the bar nuts up - this is sometimes possible if the tensioner has a conical end or the bar studs have flanges on them. To tighten a chain properly in MY house - put the bar and chain on the saw so that the tensioner is located through the bar and the bar is sitting up against the flat of the bar mount on the engine, place the clutch cover on the saw, put the nuts on finger tight and nip them up but ensure the bar can still move up and down, chock a piece of wood under the front tip of the bar and lift the chain off the top of the bar - if you can do this greater than around 8-10mm then tighten the tensioner and do the test again - repeat until you can only pull the chain up around 10mm and then pull the chain up whilst doing up the nuts with a decent wrench. Take the lump of wood out and then make sure the chain isnt hanging off the bar and that you can turn it freely around the bar - if you grab it with a piece of cloth and yank it forward, it should keep turning for a few inches if right. Large and small bars are slightly different due to larger chains heating and contracting so need to be a little looser, many will have their own methods but this is what I use and it works for me. Make any sense?

This time of year, Ebay, working condition - £100 - £120! That's what people will pay. Anything lower than £70 and woeking is good IMO

On with the Stihl MS650, this is a sad case of the saw being rebuilt with many new parts with due care but when it came to carb adjustment, it was set to what the side of the airbox said - unfortunately the settings were for limit caps inserted and on this saw, these had been removed. The "H" screw was set to 1/2 turn - the engine seized and gouged the piston up. I have cleaned the bore, sourced an aftermarket piston on consultation with the owner. The piston has been checked with the vernia, edges cleaned and the ring end clearance checked before reassembly.

Yes- common fault, not a great design IMO but is OK if you know what you are doing - good advice:thumbup: