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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Yup, I know that fact as I have three 024s, two 026s another in a box in bits and have an 026 and a MS260 in for repair - this saw isn't a 026, an 024, a MS260 or MS240 - it isn't the 026 with the grey sludge in it or the MS260 with the oiler - been multi tasking with different saws and a drill, difficult as I am not a female but I do my best camping it up in the man cave:lol:
  2. I am really confused now - all I know is I have a fixed MS260 with a fully functioning oiler that someone:confused1: has put a 18" Stihl 3/8 bar and chain on but it has a new 0.325 rim on it - do you reckon the bar came off the 064? If it helps - I will stick it on ebay - gotta be worth £250:lol: Dont want to get anyone in to trouble - just fixing what comes in and this one came in!
  3. The tank isn't off a 026 otherwise I would have taken a second user one and used this, it is now repaired and happy it is probably stronger then the original with everything lining up. Thanks for the help but was convinced it was an exhaust blockage - you get a bit of an instinct or hunch on these these faults after a while - all becomes second nature.....ever heard a chainsaw in the distance and thought - "could rev a little higher":lol: The drill is a BT45 -quite right there, the cleaned arrestor is as pictured, just about to refit and tune the carb. It was completely bunged up and have burnt the crap out of the exhaust as well.
  4. Jonnys 64:001_rolleyes: it is a MS260:confused1: not oiling - it is now:thumbup: downside is that it has a 0.325 rin on it and a 3/8 chain and bar - he is damn lucky it didnt all let loose and hurt him. Found out that no one fits 3/8 on MS260 and have offered to fit a decent second hand 0.325 bar and new chain but it is someone elses saw so he is seeking approval for the spend. Told him I wasn't going to refit the bar and chain as it is dangerous and gave him the options. I said he should have a chat to you about it - he doesn't know me from Adam but I think he got the message and thankfully, knew the chain wasn't turning well - will show him what I am talking about when he picks it up - don't think he knows much about saws Oh - the two stroke drill - bunged up spark arrestor....whose the daddy:thumbup:
  5. Just tached the 023 and 026 I have fitted new pistons in, all good, the 026 sounded pretty flubby on the top end and notied the choke spring wasnt sited properly and the choke flap was opening and closing on full throttle, once I sorted this, it came alive and was perfect - the owner will be very happy. Just working on that broken handle now.
  6. Latest kit to hit the bench - the 026 has been cleaned and the new piston fitted - compression is 170psi + and sounds good, no noise from the crank bearings and will see in time if it is a good job but all looks good. Got a repair to a handle moulding - owner didn't notice it had broken, expensive part so I am patching it and have made the metalwork to do so. Another project - a two stroke drill....no I haven't seen one before either, symptoms are inabillity to rev - owner thought carb but a quick tune and removing the air filter briefly made no difference - I reckon it has a blockage in the exhaust - perhaps carbon in the baffle plate but will see!
  7. Got to agree, the only time we open the damper thet puts air in from under the burning logs/kindling is when we are lighting the fire, once going well, it is shut off and all the air comes from the airwash and upper dampers. The glass stays clear to look at with a slight haze that is easily removed - in my experience, the black crud on glass is formed by lack of air or unseasoned wood.
  8. spudulike

    No oak???

    I have burnt a fair bit of oak - needs two years seasoning and mixing it with softwood keeps it going as it struggles by itself. Did a lot of oak and conifer last year - burnt well:thumbup:
  9. Got a Riva 40 - small inset stove, had it seven years - the seal has had to be stuck back in once but is still in very good condition, the glass stays clean, it has very good efficiency and combustion - you can see the gas burning that comes out of the wood then reburning from the design of the flue channeling th egas back in to the fire- it is only a pressed construction and firebrick but can say it is a great bit of kit - very modern looking and am 100% happy with it -the combustion design is 1000 times better than the Westminster I had before and the seal design is great - a big rope that has lasted! Father has a jotul and one brother a Clearview all seem pretty good IMO
  10. You could possibly ask agg221 - he has a 076, a 066 and 044 plus a mill - he has milled wood for house cladding and canal barges - bit of a technician - he may be able to help out and is in Cambridgeshire.
  11. The saw not turning of may be a faulty switch, damaged wire or poor connection on the coil, would agree that the saw not having any throttle response may just be a jamming linkage - had a 346XP where the linkage caught on the rubber boot just in front of the handle giving an uneven idle.
  12. I think we should refer to this cut as "The Brazillian":thumbup:
  13. Sounds a bit iffy - be worried if you have a varying idle, a racing idle, a boggy midrange and no high revs or high revs that just sound too high - all are possible symptoms of varying degree of airleak or leaning out- can be other things such as stuckthrottle linkages but make sure the saw has settled down to normal running.
  14. A saw that has been started a week ago or under should start on 3-5 pulls, more is too many IMO. A saw that has stood for a few months may be closer to 8 - 12 pulls only because fuel needs to be pulled through. Anothers problem now
  15. That piston is toast, not sure about the cylinder, cant tell. Here is tonights project, Stihl MS260 oiler not working - didn't even piss around without stripping it down, clutch off, oiler off, clean the tubes, filter, check the pinion and blow through the pump - bit of gooey black stuff in there - oil and wood dust. Works fine now, unlike the 0.325 rim sprocket with a 3/8 bar and chain - God knows who fitted that:001_rolleyes: wondered why the chain was so notchy on pulling it round:lol:
  16. Make sure it is tuned slightly rich on the L and H screws as the saw won't like being held on mid rev band - another thread was about a 261 that had seized when carving!
  17. Worth checking the breather - it is a little rubber pipe sticking out of the fuel tank on the left hand side with the filter cover removed. It could be the early sign of the carb boot failing so be careful - worth also checking the fuel line, filter. The L screw may just need a tweak anti clockwise but make sure it isn't well off factory setting and that you havent got a varying idle mixed with over revving at the top end! Oh - it may also be the gauze filter in the carb!
  18. I think it is one for the owner to decide upon after all it is his saw and cash, I have filled the crankcase cavity with petrol then drained it out and used WD40 and carb cleaner on it - still needs a bit more attention but is much cleaner now and the bearings feel good but take your point on the cages. The £100 parts plus £30 quality piston plus £15 plus my labour starts making this repair uneconomical on an older saw which is why I try to reach a half way point to where the owner gets a decent repair and I havent overdone the cost of spares. As I say - customer will take the call on this one but reckon he will take it as it is and see how it goes. Will keep everyone posted:thumbup:
  19. Good result - if your dealer supplies it direct it may be worth talking to him about the work you do but glad it all turned out OK:thumbup:
  20. Well spotted:thumbup: the saw is pretty old, in an ideal world you are spot on and fitting these parts is good advice but the saw is old and has some sentimental value and like always, am trying to meet customer expectations on cost whilst doing a repair up to a good standard. Don't think a £400 repair bill would cut it! All I have done so far is to take the pot off, clean and inspect it, a decent clean with petrol and a spin of the crank with the coil off will show up if the bearings are a bit slack and have play - will do this before buying the piston but hopefully, if I clean it out, the saw will have an extended life without heavy cost. A cheap way to sort the flywheel is to take metal of the opposite side of the flywheel - perhaps not in the book but should even up any imbalances! I haven't even taken the cover off yet, better have a closer look before I splash out any expense - may find other horror stories:thumbdown:
  21. Second on Bacton woods - best woodland I have been to in a while was on the Isle of Wight - ancient Oak woodland - not seen woods like that for a while and also saw red squirrels:thumbup:
  22. Nice job - exhaust - BBQ paint or stove paint as previoiusly advised:thumbup:
  23. I know what you mean but the saw had been seized and someone had fitted a new piston without cleaning the bore, the grey sludge is a mixture of petrol, aluminium that the new rings have worn from the bore and a little WD40 I put in the bore as the saw was dry and I wanted to measure the compression. Bit of a mess but probably looks worse than it really is - will take a judgement on the bearings but there is no play and the crank bearings spin freely even without cleaning. One thing - a new flywheel:confused1:what is your thinking on this?
  24. Todays project - 026, low on compression, a glance down the plug hole, the bore looked quite clean - Took the exhaust off and the piston is badly scored, stripped the top end out and wow - what a load of grey sludge is on all the parts. Someone had rebuilt this saw and it never ran well afterwards - this was before I got it. The bore looks like it has cleaned itself as I got very little aluminium off it, the pic is the bore before cleaning. A new piston will get it going, the crankcase needs flushing out - fortunately the aluminium is soft and fine and the bearings feel sound but will retest after cleaningl:thumbup: Pics -

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