Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

spudulike

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    14,795
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Yes - no easy options anywhere, just need to dig in and get on with it. Knocking on doors is always a possible option though times are indeed hard - not like my haydays in the 80s - 65hr weeks - didn't have time to spend the cash I was making!
  2. Yup - they are pretty good, no issues with them and good value. I have the advantage also of using our commercial couriers who do an overnight delivery for £6.50 but that is a negotiated price on volume (DPD). They got the saw from North Herts to Scotland overnight -
  3. Not sure how common it is as I don't get many 441s in but the spring on the chainbrake is pretty fierce and there is a real jarring action on this dowel - be interested if this is the same fault
  4. I fix PCs as well and have built and overclocked a few in my time:thumbup:
  5. I would pop the cover off - they have a tendency to break a dowel turret and repaired one a few months back but unfortuantely it has just failed again - needs a new crankcase now:thumbdown: This is a picture of the repair - made a new dowel with a flange on the back of it, pushed it through from the back, pinned it in place and built up the surround with JB weld but even that failed - it is a high pressure area and worth checking.
  6. I am not a Stihl service agent but have done a few 066/660s, firstly, if the tank breather is blocked, it is possible you may be able to get the saw to lean out when flat out but would have expected it to have been idleing badly and bgging down due to lack of fuel in the lead up to failure - has the saw carb been adjusted recently? It is unlikely any muck of any volume would get past the fuel filter and if it did, it would end up in the gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb. The most common causes of failure are airleaks - easy to diagnose with a vacuum/pressure check Carb set too lean - some don't understand the settings with the limit caps in place and removed or just badd adjustment Old or neat fuel - doesn't sound like this happened. If the saw is seized, the piston will have vertical scores on the exhaust side of the piston, easily checked by removing the exhaust. it will also have very poor comression. The saw will typically falter and slow down before dying and fail to restart after a long cut or long cuts when the saw is hot. I wouldn't like to cast judgement on other engineers diagnosis but I am yet to see a saw seize down to a blocked fuel filter, it is possible but any repair should be backed up with a pressure/vacumm check and a carb tune when running. I can generally salvage most cylinders as it saves a few hundred on a new cylinder and then fit a new quality non OEM piston.
  7. Cheers Robert, glad it landed OK and that it has fired up OK, I do my best to ensure all is OK including setting up with a 20 minute run up and a re-start when stone cold before sending out. Even then you can get unforseen problems but glad it is fine - it should do fine as the compression was all there after it was done. For Mozza - I cleaned all the aluminium transfer from the seize off the bore, lightly honed with wet and dry, fitted a new piston, found a light airleak when I pressure checked it, fited new seals and retested and cleaned then tach tuned the carb to 1,000rpm below factory spec to make sure the piston has a chance of bedding in.
  8. You are looking at a 45 - 50cc saw and may find it better to get a second user decent saw than a small brand new one, at £250 you are still a little short on a low use 346XP which is a fab saw but should be able to get a decent Stihl MS260 or a Husqvarna 345/350 or something similar. All will be more capable than your previous Husky:thumbup:
  9. Good advice - you can drink spirits and beer though - they don't stain like red wine when you spill them:001_rolleyes::lol:
  10. Hi Stuart - sounds like the compressed air is effecting your needle valve - I am not sure where you are blowing your saw with compressed air but perhaps turning down the pressure and using a small 1/2" brush would be better.

     

    What is probably happening is that the air is blowing the diaphragm up and opening the needle valve allowing fuel to over fill the metering part of the carb that then floods in to the engine.

     

    If the machine normally runs fine and this only happens when you clean it in this manner then change your cleaning regime. If this is happening all the time - strip the carb including the needle valve and clean with carb cleaner then would fit a new £10 carb kit but make sure you get the FULL kit not the diaphragm and pump foil only.

    Cheers

    Steve

  11. Been working on the MS650 which had beed seized, had a damaged big end bearing, had a new crank and many new parts fitted by the owner and seized again after 10 minutes of running due to the carb being set to the indications on the air box but not taking in to account these are different for when the limit caps are removed. The piston has had a thick strip of aluminium torn off it and welded on to the cylinder which I have now chemically removed and honed the area with wet and dry. It has a few nicks in the plating but looks OK compared to the carnage that first greeted me. Pistons are few and far between but have manage ot locate and aftermarket one.
  12. All sounds good - Unfortunately built in metal detectors is beyond me.....there again:thumbup: Glad it is behaving, the rod was my main concern but was pleased with how free it was on turning it over with no plug in it - no sign of binding so should all be good.
  13. The H&L screws only have half a turn on them as they have limit caps on them, this is done so the uninitiated don't mess with settings they don't understand and mess them up - result of a weak H setting is seizure. I don't know the reason for adjustment but if you are getting bogging in the mid range then it may be an airleak on the inlet carb boot or a crack around the impulse connector on the boot - both are very common:thumbdown: Other weaknesses are the automatic decompressors on the EPA model!
  14. No Worries, glad it landed OK and hope it gives good service:thumbup:
  15. It's one I did a few months back - the earlier comment about heat transfer is correct, an aluminium insert in a aluminium head is best, steel to aluminium may well play up - I had an FS1E that ate plugs as it had a loose fitting stainless helicoil:thumbdown: I believe the saw I did is still running fine - it was for a mate of a guy I know quite well and know it has been working fine.
  16. Can you dig it? Yes you can:thumbup: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/31336-ms441-cylinder-head.html
  17. I managed to fix the one off my 116 by taking a coil and the little metal can off a Stihl 010, remove it from the metal laminations and refit it on the laminations of the 116 coil with the faulty coil removed. It worked fine much to my surprise - I don't know if the 116 and 114 share the same coil though!
  18. spudulike

    new toy

    Mmm - had to stop as they had the grankids round - early to bed:thumbdown: Wife banned me from firing anything up today - was out with the axe splitting the wood up:thumbup: Half a log store split and stored!
  19. Anything from Mozart to Motorhead, many tracks invoke memories of past life but somehow AC/DC always gets turned up on the Stereo:thumbup: Always like a bit of Zepplin, Purple, Whitesnake, Maiden etc or anything from the 80s, U2, Blondie...Clem Burke - great drummer, The Cult, The Cure - Back in Black AC/DC...nice:thumbup:
  20. Ouch - at least an easy fix:thumbup:
  21. Interesting one this one, was given a Zama carb from a Stihl 020T to rebuild, did the normal stuff but noticed this fault - the pumping foil has had holes punctured in the pumping flappers - think I may lightly turn a drill in the holes before reassembly to champfer the edges to stop this happening again
  22. spudulike

    new toy

    Mmm been making a bit of noise myself, been out the back doing a bit of logging, started with an 020AV, then an 026, an 024, my ported 346XP and ended with an 056!
  23. spudulike

    new toy

    So you got it then:thumbup: was looking at it myself - I wondered what that rummbling noise was and the plume of smoke:lol:
  24. You have two options - make one if you are good on the lathe or butcher a plug with a hammer and then mod it with a tube and epoxy - not rocket science just brute force on this one:thumbup:
  25. Thanks guys:thumbup: I'm feelin the love

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.