spudulike

You may remember a week ago I had a Stihl 064 in bits and had stated that the aftermarket piston previously fitted had been stamped with an arrow facing the wrong way. the second one I have seen like this. The ring ends had eventually snagged the inlet port and thankfully let loose before doing and real damage. The new piston arrived on Saturday, I always try to fit a quality piston if they are available and here is the picture clearly showing the ring retaining pins facing the wrong way on the old piston:001_rolleyes:

Cheers - may be useful!

Personally I would avoid splitting the bottom end unless the crank bearings are shot - generally the clutch side will go first as it gets all the abuse of overtightened chains etc. Just get it on the bench with the clutch off and push up and down and side to side on the shaft and feel for any movement. With the flywheel, clutch and top end removed, feel for any rough points in the bearings, if all good, leave well alone as it is easy for a novice to kill an otherwise good machine for no good reason!

Didn't know you could get the single part:blushing:

Just one little addition - you will find the idle will drop when richening the L screw, just locate and turn the idle screw clockwise to increase the revs back to even idle speed. Make sure it is the idle screw you are turning:001_rolleyes:

Yes - just buy a new carb kit for the carb and insert the new mesh filter and save the rest of the kit for when the carb needs it. It wont cost much over £10 just make sure you get the full kit.

For those who don't know - B Snelling, the guy in the vid, is a porting God in the US as you can hear from these saws especially the 346XP it certainly isn't running at 14,000rpm! Nice job methinks:thumbup:

No Worries - just PM me if you need info, help etc..... always glad to help out. I got that 254 Husky up and running so drop me a line if you need it.

Chainsaws can have a real long life, just depends on who uses and maintains them. Usual parts that suffer are plastic casings, chain brake parts, carb parts and Piston and cylinder. Most Pro saws have heavy duty ball race crankshaft bearings and usually have a very long life. Seals can go but can be replaced as can many other parts. Many will write off a saw when fitting a few new parts will resurrect it, seen many 20 - 25 year old saws come through the workshop - and go out with years of life ahead of them. The modern saws will weigh less and cut faster with better AV but the old ones will still be around for years to come usually retired to home owners with log burners or to landscapers on a lower budget rather than pro arb operators .

You been breaking my machine - don't know how you managed that, this may help: - IPL - http://www.jonsered.ws/2065.pdf 365 IPL - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20365.pdf Same Part:thumbup: Supplier - Quick Order Take it easy and look after the saw:001_rolleyes:

I am sure you will get to an answer but PVA isn't it, this is an internal sealent and will just go milky and wash off if it gets wet again. I am thinking some sort of pitch - possibly the cold adhesive used to glue felt on flat roofs as a possible fix? Not too expensive but not a great time of year to lay it!

Yeah - thats guys off my Chrimbo card list and hope his saw don't go wrong - I ain't fixing it now wheres me Husky rifle.....you left out sewing machines!! Just had a thought....two stroke sewing machine - that would be a weapon - could port it ....Mmmmmm got me thinking:thumbup:

Got the latest MS200T licked - pulled the carb appart and found a loose welch plug in the diaphragm chamber - sealed it back in, rebuilt the side cover and fired it up, all good:thumbup: Another one ready for sale!

MS200Ts have a single sided clip and pawl - never had a problem, shared design with many other Stihl machines, the larger with double pawls but yours has a slightly different pulley and the other components would not be there on non ergo start machines. If taking off the lubrication doesn't fully work, close up the spring slightly in a bench vice - that should do it:thumbup:

I guess giving it a good old spray of WD40 with the side cover off when it is screaming may tell you whether it is the crank bearings or an external problem - my thinking was that the chainbrake band may be skewing the needle bearing or putting force on the crank bearing making it scream - I wonder if the bearing internal is spinning around the crankshaft rather than being a tight fit - bit of a weird one:confused1: Personally I think I would pull the clutch off and grease all the parts, reassemble and see if the noise goes away or anything changes, if it doesn't then it is internal, if it does, even for a while, then it is external to the crankcase!

Thats shocking, the retaining screw is usually punched to stop it coming lose, if the screw had managed to come out think of the consequences! The symptoms sound about right though!

If you pull the piston out, post the gudgeon/wrist pin diameter, piston diameter, piston height and top of the wrist/gudgeon pin to piston top edge dim as well as noting if the piston is domed or not. Once I have this info, I can do a few checks!

Just been working on a 064 where an aftermarket piston had the arrow stamped on the crown facing the wrong way - the rings caught in the exhaust port and smashed - fortunately the cylinder survived - second time I have seen this. You don't mention fault finding the original problem - he may have an air leak or the carb incorrectly adjusted. To do the job properly I vac, pressure and compression check and finally tach tune the carb.....I run the saw for 20 mins min when taching to ensure the set up is correct! To do the job is relatively easy, if the problem is straight fueling then you may get everything back together and sorted - it is when you have problems, some of them I list on "Whats on my bench" thread that the good and bad repairs are found out for what they are - Another common fault with aftermarket P&C kits is the forming of the ring ends making the ring either impossible to fit in to the bore or damn tight - everything is easy when it is going right:001_rolleyes: You may know all this but calling this type of repair "easy" is a bit misleading after some of the problems I have seen and been involved with - check out my thread.