spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Looks like I am OK now:thumbup:
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I just hope it works out for you and the saw lives up to your expectations:thumbup: Goodluck
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Well said - I hope thet the saw turns out well and we are proved wrong but my experience on a couple of Chinese Zomax saws put me right off these cheap imports. IMO, you get to an age where you know you should pay that bit extra and do so and end up with the satisfaction of a good product! My example of a 350 for £150 was second hand - sold one on here for that a year ago - only a couple of years old!
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I am doing up a 268 for a member on this site but the carb fitted is incorrect and damaged. I am now looking for a secondhand carb, not worried if it needs a clean or attention but complete would be good - I am sure we can come to some arrangement as far as cost goes. Carb type is Tillotson HS234A if that helps - only fitted to these two saws!
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If you do nothing else - make sure the carb boot has no holes or splits in it, make sure the impulse line has no splits and is pushed firmly home both ends and make sure the carb adjusters are 1 1/4 turn out from fully home before you run it. It is unlikely the seals are gone - it is also worth making sure there is no carbon build up in the exhaust port. I won't bore you with the technicalities but if you don't do this, you will probably have the same fault again:thumbdown:
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Will be interested to see the results in how it cuts - 10,000 rpm is a very slow reving saw, even the very big saws (880, 395) usually push 12,000 - 12,500 max revs and the 346XP is limited to 14,100 - more revs means faster chain speed means faster cutting. There is more to a saw than fast chain speed - keep us all informed though, at £200, I would have purchased a second hand 350 Husky and had £50 change:thumbup: my choice though!! I look for weight, balance, power and quality in build - the 345, 350, 346 etc all have these IMO. Good residual prices as well!
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I think this site is keeping me pretty busy as it is - thanks for the thought:thumbup:
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I would think that 10,000rpm is where max power is made and not maximum revs - the 056 I have just done peaks at 12-13,000rpm:confused1: The 346 makes top power at 9,000rpm
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It means you have probably got reasonable compression but I prefer to use a gauge to get a good reading - hope you know the reason for the failure in the first place as you may get the same failure with the new piston:thumbdown:
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The 268XP is turning in to an interesting one, I have fitted a second hand piston that is in far better condition and measures 0.08mm larger than the old one - compression is 155psi on a WD40d bore so very good. Pressure and vacuum check 100% fine! The saw has a poor idle and on the last pic, you will find out why, someone has had the welch plug out at some stage and punched a hole through to the venturi and then it has been repaired with some form of epoxy - Mmmm nice:001_rolleyes: Anyone out there got a spare carb for a 266/268XP?
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Yup, there is always one and you are todays winner:001_rolleyes: Green oil turns amber and then red before vapourising your saw engine:thumbup:
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If you have spark and fuel then do you have compression? Personally I would pull the muffler and look at the front of the piston and inspect for scoring,if this looks OK then I would take a look at the fast idle start throttle mechanism - this should kick the throttle valve plate open around 2-3mm, If this isnt happening, starting the saw will be a bitch! If the piston face is clean, pull the plug out, turn the saw upside down, pull the saw over fast to get rid of pudled fuel in the crankcase, dry the plug -preferably with a torch and then take the choke off and get someone to hold the throttle open whilst you pull the saw over - avoid using the decomp valve to increase comp while doing this. If there is no puddled fuel in the crankcase then do the above with the choke on! If you get stuck, PM me - if the saw has been seized then I may be able to save the cylinder.
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I believe the 435 is a bit underpowered but have never used one. If you can't afford the 346XP then what about the 345/350, they are not of the same build but have a very similar feeling about them and they do scream rather nicely - been running a 345 for three years for home firewood and I love the saw - sounds great and cuts fast:thumbup:
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At £100 you are in the Stihl 171/181 and Husky 136/141 area, you do get what you pay for and these are just in your budget secondhand. Both will do the job, the Stihl runs a flimsy 1.1mm chain, the Husky IMO feel a little more solid and am aware of their Electrolux background. If you can get a few extra bucks, the 345 Husky or 023 Stihl are better saws.
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If the saw shows signs of seizure then stop running it, the more it is run, the more damage will occur - if it has seized, it will have done so for a reason. Megatron is right - pull the muffler and take a look at the piston, this works 95% ot the time (just had one saw with scoring outside of view). any vertical scores are bad news! The more the saw is used, the higher the chances of further damage occuring.
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Yes - big difference to a big banger running at 9,500rpm and a 346XP screaming at 14,100:laugh1:
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Here we go again:001_rolleyes: First picture - carb rebuild on a Stihl 024 - been playing up since I sold it to a local guy so I stripped it down, pulled the welch plug, ultrasonically cleaned it all last evening with a blast of carb cleaner between cleans - refitted the gaskets, needle and plug and gave it a very rough tune but will give it a blast at the weekend. Other pictures - a Husky 268 that hass had a seize, a new ring and the carb has been replaced with a carb probably off an L65 or 280CD as the idle adjustment is from the back of the saw:confused1: Reckon the bore can be cleaned - talking to the owner about a cost effective course of action.
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It will be very unusual if the engine is still locked up as in most cases the piston contracts when it cools. I would not keep turning over the engine, the more this is done, the greater risk of scoring the bore. See what you have and let me know if you want to send it in, just cleared a backlog so will have some time soon. Good advice earlier about finding the route cause - all the saws I do are pressure checked, now vacuum checked and tach tuned to ensure the faults are found - I also check filters, breathers and pipes!
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To be honest, all my old stuff goes in to the Suffolk Colt and dont run old mix in saws - you can tell when the mix is past it's best when the mix goes yellow and not cherry red but age is the best guide. I always drain down saws in for repair and replace with fresh fuel, I have had some pretty bad stuff come out of some of them. The extra dollop of oil isn't one of my better ideas:blushing:
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Yup - 160psi on the 357, can't remember the 372 comp but think there were still machining marks on the piston - that is always a good sign - no problems there. How is that flippin 357 running - is the carb still behaving....what a job:001_rolleyes:
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I personally would put an extra dolop of two stroke in it if you really want to use it. Chainsaws rev to around 13,000rpm so considerably more than most bikes or outboards so damage can occur far quicker than on other equipment. The cost of the fuel??? The cost of a new Piston and cylinder???? You know it makes sense!
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To pressure check correctly, you need to blank off the muffler and the join between carb and cylinder. If you blank off the choke side of the carb, you will get some leakage through the carb throttle plate shaft and give you dubious readings - you are checking the crank seals, mating surfaces, inlet boot and impulse line if fitted and not the carb although you can pressure check a carb. I don't use the Stihl unit as I find the price tag a bit high, I have developed my own kit and I do connect through a modified spark plug as it is the most convenient area to do so. Sometimes simple and cheap are the best solutions:thumbup:
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If you havent got a tach, tuning this saw will be very difficult - it probably has a blue limited coil that limits the revs to 14,100rpm which makes it difficult to tune by ear and makes tach tuning difficult - that's why I put a black one on my tuned one - 14,600rpm:thumbup:
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Yup - 266 bullet proof:thumbup: If you are using the saw only a few times a year and need a light revvy saw with good anti vibe then I rate the 345/350 Huskys, some say the exhausts come loose but I have never had this problem. They are good saws and will not break your back if you use it for a few hours. If you are flush and want a pro saw then the 346XP needs no introduction!
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Yup - on the older saws in the day ran 25:1 but two stroke oil has developed and generally most work at 50:1 and Amsoil works at 100:1.
