spudulike

Yes - and I have been dreaming hedge trimmers most of the week thanks to the Wolfman:001_rolleyes: At least one of the three is fixed - the others will follow. ........and the wife keeps complaining about the state of the loo bowl:blushing:

Always a pleasure, I guess the 066 is running well:thumbup: Glad the fix is lasting, never did find why it went in the first place but glad all is well now.

Check the bore out to make sure the plating is in good order, sometimes saws ingest sawdust that wears the inlet side of the bore. 60psi really sounds like the saw has seized at some stage. The MS200Ts I have done run at between 145psi to 150psi on standard build up to 180psi on modified tuned build - low comp means low torque:thumbdown: I would always thoroughly inspect anything running at lower than 140psi and expect wear. Hopefully it is something simple! What gauge are you using, some do read low - just depends on what sealing valve they have, the Gunson Hi gauge is what I use most of the time.

But even a decent 009 is worth £100 - £125 in good working order:thumbup: Got one myself, not fast revving but still pulls well, good for the typical 1-2 hours work a week in the winter months doing a bit of logging. The saw was the No1 selling Stihl of all time in the US - not sure if it still is! Stick a 12" bar on it and it will surprise you:thumbup:

Just got on this, been in London the last three days - work:lol: Firstly there are no aftermarket cylinders that I know of, the original cylinder may well be salvageable, if it isn't the saw is FUBAR:thumbdown: the OEM parts are painfully expensive! I have salvaged around 85 - 95% of cylinders and managed 150 - 170psi on all of them, I believe the only failure I had after fixing was caused by a Chinese piston with poor ring tempering - since primarily using quality pistons, I believe all my repairs are still working fine - based on the good rep above....cheers lads:thumbup: AGG221 is spot on, the bore is Nicasil plated and NOT Nitrided. If you do anything apart from a soft hone, the plating will be damaged and the saw won't be worth fixing. I use chemicals to remove the aluminium in a soft manner and then lightly hone/abrade with abrasive paper to ensure a good bore finish. Pistons - you are limited for choice, if the saw is a keeper then I would recommend fitting an original piston, not cheap but the best solution as I don't believe a Meteor piston is available. There is one BRANDED aftermarket piston available that is an option but would steer clear of any "White box" parts:thumbdown: PM me if you want to talk - choice is yours - I have done MS880, Ms660, MS650, MS460, 395XP etc so some big kit!

Not sure how that 019 is running on 60-70psi - usually around 110psi is about the least that will work and Barries 90psi is pretty ropey as well. Pulled the 345 apart, the previous owner had fitted a rim drive sprocket without changing the oil worm drive and it was never specified with the part so the inevitible happened, the oiler worm drive/pinion was forced in to the seal and has killed both the seal and the worm drive:thumbdown: New sprocket, worm drive and bearing/seal to be fitted:thumbup: The saw was perfect on pressure testing but leaked like a sieve on vacuum plus it didn't rev down to idle swiftly but held on to the revs after revving flat out. Pulled off the cylinder and those interested will note that the lower crankcase is made up from the engine cradle that holds the cylinder. It is made of hard engineering plastic and works well. The 345/350 are decent enough saws feeling similar to the 346 and have punchy performance.

I ported my 346 and 357 but both are decent light saws that pack a good punch, spares OEM or aftermarket are in abundance and shared with many other saw models - they also have damn good AV systems and air filtration! I used a 353 and thought there was something wrong with it as it was pretty gutless compared to even the standard 346Xp. My opinion - 346XP if you want a decent light saw that will be solid on anything 12" and smaller or the 357 if you are cutting timber at over 12" regularly.

Well the Husky Hedge trimmers fired and with a little tweaking of the carb and loosenig the cutters, they ran, revved and idled. Just need to get the cutters cleaned and sharpened - not too bad going:thumbup:

Second on Barrie (Gardenkit) being a good fella, always good banter on the site.

I have purchased parts from them with no issues and good service.

I always find getting the circlips in more difficult than the rings IMO

Got a Husqvarna 325HS75 hedge trimmer in, wouldn't start, checked the spark and it would spark on the first pull and then nothing. Had the thing apart, the HT cable had some worn parts so managed to get a couple of layers of heat shrink on those. The kill switch connector had no cover on it and was damn close to the flywheel housing casting so sorted that out. Put it back together again with a tight flywheel to coil gap and bingo, nice fat spark again. Looked at the muffler as they can block and ........full house - had to open it up as in the pictures - nothing much will block that again:thumbup: Did a pole cutter for my brother with the same exhaust problem after a local dealer had serviced it - still running fine:thumbup: Will put it back together again and see if it works - gut feeling is it will!

Zama C3-EL32 on the New Edition Silverside, and Walbro HDA 182 A on the old 45cc ones, I do know the 45cc one has a twist and pull air filter and the new on is clipped. Not tried swapping them over or know if it is possible!

Weasles are weasily recognizable but Stoats are Stotaly different:001_rolleyes: Good fun living in the country! Havent seen any rats around for a while - shot most of them!

"Magnificent"....I gather U2 saw the thread and wrote the song....think that one may have gone over any non U2 fans out there!! Cheers Barrie:thumbup:

Yes, very pleased with the 372 figures against what we put up against it, cheers for your time

Sounds about right, it is usually a case of putting the chain break mechanism in to the "On" position and then cajoling the spring in to position with grips and or screwdrivers.

With care and wearing safety specs usually! I have done them before usually with the aid of a big screwdriver but not really a job I have done regularly!

Yes, it is around 15,000rpm, it is the 8 pin rim, on the smaller stuff it will go faster than yours but on that big lump of wood, it didn't like it. Think I may stick the 7 pin back on it and try again! Got a thought about advancing the ignition as well:001_rolleyes:

On thinking about it, if the clutch has been off, it is possible when the clutch drum went back on, it wasn't meshed with the oiler pinion/worm drive and this means that the sprocket is standing forward of it's normal position and locking against the clutch - just a thought:001_rolleyes:

It sounds like something is locking the crankshaft when the brake is on, have you had the clutch apart, is the bearing OK, is there twine or dirt around the clutch/sprocket etc. With the brake off, it sounds like the clutch and sprocket are spinning together and when you put the brake on, the engine stalls as the sprocket should be held and the clutch should still spin within it and not alter the idle!

While we were testing the 372, we ran some comparisons with other saws through the same piece of timber - results below Stihl 036, standard with 18" bar - 7 secs Stihl MS441 - 20" bar - 5.5 secs Ported Husky 372 - 4.4 secs Burrells Spud ported Husky 357XP - 5.2 secs My ported 357XP - 5.7 Secs Conclusion - think my saw needs some more running in and maybe the 8 pin isn't good in larger wood as it has had more work than Burrells but was a bit slower! The 372 is blistering and knocks over a second off the 441:thumbup: Shows what can be done with a little tuning!

Worth checking the plug colour but would put another 5-10 tanks thrrough before a retune. Will have some time in a couple of weeks - not as if you are a million miles away:thumbup:

Hope he gets sorted quick Andy, at that age, it should be OK, lots of time to repair and faster than when later in life like us old boys!

Sorry - 010................ I am pretty sure this saw has an impulse pickup that goes through the carb manifold and it is important that the gasket lines up with the hole in the manifold, I reused the old one and made sure it lined up on the rebuild. I reckon the oil has been pulled through the carb and may have blocked the jets or H&L metering part of the carb. It may need a complete strip down and a good blast out with carb cleaner or an overnight soak in white spirit to clear it out - the filter may also have been impregnated with the oil. If you have been trying to start it on full choke, the saw may be flooded so it is worth pulling the plug out, pointing the saw vertically and pulling it over to clear any puddled fuel - the plug is worth heating with a plumbers propane torch or gas cooker hob to get rid of residue fuel/oil. If you have a can of carb cleaner, take a note of how many turns the H & L screws are to reach their stop and then remove and blast carb cleaner through the jets and replace - I reckon if this is done and the impulse holes line up, the saw should start. You may get through it by just getting the saw going by pouring a little fuel down the plug hole and eventually it will pull the thick oil fuel mush up through the jets but it may take a while:thumbdown: