spudulike

All I ever do is find where the shaft stops turning, if at all and once you find where the drive power ends...you see what is knackered. From your description, if the shaft is turning with decent power and you can't stop it by gripping it with cloth, it will be either a worn shaft end (pretty rare) or the trimmer gearbox has gone and the screwdriver check should tell you this.....then it is a strip down if the gearbox has failed. Can't say they are easy to work on but you can fix them! Is this the earlier trimmer head with an alloy body or the white and orange painted one that replaced it?

Take the cutter attachment off, grip the shaft with a cloth and get someone else to rev the machine lightly. What you are doing is making sure the clutch and shaft are OK. Common issues are the clutch shoes rusting and sticking shut....usually after rain and storage. The shaft ends can wear but not very common. Sometimes people don't mesh the shafts correctly on the Kombi units and sometimes the trimmer heads aren't pushed on fully. Inspect the ends of the shaft to make sure they are still well formed and square. The gearbox may have failed but they are usually pretty strong. You can put a flat head screwdriver in to where the square shaft would go and try turning the screwdriver to turn the trimmer so it operates slowly. Mind your fingers, the cutters can be damn sharp!! Report back what you find.

I have a 11' hedge around my garden, I face it twice a year and have worked hard at keeping the depth of the hedge and height down without killing it.....if you go in too deep on Leylandii, it won't come back. I actually climb up each trunk and lop the top off with a silky as it is often easier than getting the ladders out. Those tripod ladders are a superb idea, I invented those whilst wobbling on mine and then found out "they were a thing"!! The dead bits on a top of a Leylandii tree are rock hard and as others have said, not hedge trimmer material, it wont do the gearbox or blades any good and in bad cases, have seen clutches sheared in bad cases!

It is the hunter gather thing in a fella. Most look at it and see a pile of logs. We look at it and see heating for the next winter or two....just a perspective. I guess it is too easy now to twiddle the thermostat and ...bingo...heat. A big pile of stacked logs is a thing of beauty and means heat in the winter...simple.

I would suggest a bit of a payment for a load of wood that I guess you will cut, split and season. I usually bung the lads £20 each and do a bit of free servicing when their kit comes in....sort of goes down well and shows that it isn't a one way flow if you see what I mean. I fully rebuilt a MS200T once for a guy that had all his kit nicked and just charged parts only....he dropped off a big Isuzu dumper truck of wood and we were both happy as Larry....well, I was warm and he continued in business! Just call it bartering, respect, common interest etc!!

This is the breather, it is slightly possible it has been loose for a long time and worn the hole larger...I trust it was an OEM part. Fuel Tank Vent fits Husqvarna 135, K770, K970 Disc Cutters - 501 15 29 01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Fuel Tank Vent fits Husqvarna 135, K770, K970 Brushcutters Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 501 15 29 01 Suitable for the Following Applications: 135, K770, K970, K760 CUT-N-BREAK...

That is the later one and should be more stable. I would wind the H screw in and see what I have set it to. If it is near 3 turns, try 2.5 turns out and see if that clears the issue. Make sure you clean all the oil off the air filter with brake cleaner (or similar) and blow through with an air line. The one I had in recently had a bit of oily residue on the air filter closest to the engine and it improved with the air filter cleaned but improved more with leaning off the H screw. Try that - you will need the correct screwdriver. You can check the plug, if it is dark black/brown, it is almost definitely running rich.

I got fed up with losing my reading glasses so....after a visit to poundland, I have them in the car, workshop, house upstairs and down, in the kitchen, suitcases for holiday and in the holiday home, tinted and clear.....no idea how many I have now but I rarely don't have a pair to hand.

Just had another in. I reckon in time, the air filter gets a little bit of fuel/oil on it and it is enough to cut off enough air to cut the max revs and I tend to tune the H screw a bit fat to ensure no engine problems....check the H screw setting and lean it up a bit. It should sort it if the issue is not hitting the high revs as it should.

You only need to worry about the infamous Nomex Jacket Woodworm

You know when you get a drill sharp after a grind, the swarf comes out thick and fast! Glad you like the magnifying glass idea!

I got a cheapo Silverline grinder....I use it to sharpen home owner chains and ones that have been mullered or sharpened very badly...a sharpener does make the job on each cutter repeatable and easy. The advice - I fitted a cheap speed adjuster on my sharpener to avoid heat build up and lightly dabbing the chain with the grinder avoids hardening the cutter. Dress the wheel with a diamond file if it gets glazed. Don't forget to file the rakers/depth gauges otherwise the chain won't cut well. I use a file if the chain needs a light touch up but when it is well blunt, if you are pretty good at sharpening as it sounds you are doing drills.....I do that also using a magnifying glass and bench grinder, sharpening chains should be relatively easy.

As ADW said....the flywheel fan pumps up air to around the air filter. There will always be fine sawdust in this air and it will end up around the carb. This is just one reason all arb types should have a compressor and air line to clean their chainsaws.

Oh no, this will go on to the old fish theme in a while!!

It probably also isn't a stuck open check valve. This is pretty rare and may have seen only 3 or 4 ever. It sounds like the carb needs adjusting. Using the correct adjuster...the "D" shaped one, wind the H screw in noting how many turns it takes to do so and wind it out 2 & 5/8th turns out. Do the same on the L screw and set this one 1 & 7/8ths out. Your saw should be around 90% there on these settings. You may need a little more on the idle and without a tach, it isn't easy to set the H screw with any further accuracy. If the saw has the paper serial number over the recoil cover...these were a bit unstable, if the serial is laser etched in to the metal, it is a later one and these tend to be better. It is possible the carb has some dirt in the internal gauze strainer, this is very common and worth checking. Blowback through the carb is something you get slightly but the bad cases have been caused primarily through worn pistons and generally through fine dust getting through poorly maintained air filters.

That's an impressive lot of saws. A bad case of CAD I would say!!

All I do on these machines is a muffler mod and a carb retune.....the invoice and charge would have stated this and charged accordingly! Blowback of fuel vapour through the carb is generally down to two things....the piston skirt on the inlet side of the port being worn allowing the port to "Freeport" or the carb being set too rich or it possibly having a stuck open check valve or other carb issues. I would have tuned the max to 13krpm but if the air filter is blocked or something has changed, you could try readjusting the carb unless there are other issues present.

Probably the plastic plug in one....degrease both with brake cleaner and I use a US sealer called "seal all" but you may get away with cyanoacrylate or super glue to the uninitiated. Just make sure you don't get it on the breather parts, just the outer casing.

A belated good spot, most aren't aware there is often a needle adjuster located under a small bung. It often eases a poor idle on some machines.

Not bad little saws, relatively tourqey but no AV so can give you vibe issues in your hands. Not worth a fortune, £80-120. I have one and it was billed as the most popular chainsaw in the US many years ago. It has a halfway house rear to top handle which is a bit strange but relatively comfortable.

Mmm, guess that is in your username....Scottish and a crofter....not from a Manchester housing estate with that job eh!!

Glad it is all done. I always spend a bit of time if I think the coil has failed as new ones are pretty expensive. No idea on the CST cost...around 30 mins I would think with the hard part being separating the connector to plug it in to then you need the coil part code to update. TBH, the info you get off the CST is by far from being definitive for fault finding and have yet to find it useful. The carb settings are usually the most interesting part. For those that have messed with a cars OBD2 fault finding, these saws are around 20 years behind...no disrespect to Husqvarna....saws just have far few sensors and are infinitely less complex.

In my first post I said pretty similar...... "The first photo, sometimes but not always, there is a plastic or soft rubber tiny bung in the brass bit and if you prize this out, there will be a screw underneath which is actually the top of the barrel needle and you can richen the low speed running by undoing it a little. " No disrespect......even my wife has problems keeping up with me, even after 30 years😉

I agree on this, the main trouble is finding someone who is pretty decent and knows what they are doing. Not pushing for the business as I am not doing much now. I guess resealing the crankcase upper to the engineered plastic lower and see how it goes. Make sure the small impulse pipe is connected between the manifold clamp and the carb union and it that doesn't do it....take it to someone who knows their two stroke engines. The blowback through the carb concerns me still as the top end is good .....was the "new" carb an OEM Husqvarna brand new boxed one or secondhand one?

I think we may be digressing....what about dynamite....may as well share it with the neighbours 👍