spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The early Kawasaki Z1 engines failed and the route cause was found to be that when you gave it a fist full, most of the oil in the sump ended up at the back of the engine and starved the oil pickup - result, they fited a plate in the bottom of the sump to stop the shift of oil on acceleration.....simples:thumbup: Oh - for the unintiated - ZI=1000cc old school superbike:thumbup:
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Well that pretty much covers it....Chemistry class over:lol:
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Mmm, brothers mate had a Cortina with one and the rear was hard strutted - didn't corner too well but was fast in a straight line! The bike engine looks the easiest option to me - motocrosser is the way to go!
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Nice job Alec:thumbup:
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I carry business cards - very useful as they remind me what my name is, the job I do and where I should be going each morning....if you write your home address on the back...........
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A step forward to getting this Stihl Red Eye working, tried a few different settings - one was backfiring, one was spitting back through the carb and the other almost wrenched my arm off:thumbdown: Went back to the MS650 I have and measured 22 degrees of advance again so reset the Red Eye back to as close to 22 degs advance now I know where on the flywheel to the coil it fires the spark. Fired it up again and got it running well, good idle and pickup so now need to key the flywheel to give the magic 22 degrees of advance ignition - what a job:001_rolleyes: It advances 10-15 degrees when revved so will end up at 32 - 37 degrees - about right!
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This is the correct way of removing a seal but isn't the ONLY way:lol:
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Be damn sure this is correct - I have seen 3/8 on a 0.325 sprocket before - it was gruesome and didn't do the saw a lot of good - you should be able to pull the chain around the bar in both directions easily and with little resistance all being well! Check the sprocket type, the chain pitch and the bar pitch, if the bar is 3/8" then the chain and sprocket should also be 3/8th.
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Does heated handles need any extra maintenance?
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
I have done a couple....357XP locally and a 346Xp very recently! No reports back but am guessing that they get extra hot - about right with this weather! -
Does heated handles need any extra maintenance?
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
Not really - just need checks to the wiring and switch if they fail. I do wonder how much power the heated handles take from the machine as you can feel the resistance the magnets make on the crank - guess you have toasty hands though:thumbup: -
Sounds like the bar has done it's best, you can close the rails and level them but not a job for the beginner. Try getting the bar details from here - OREGON®: Selector Guide Or you can try mailing "Rob D" on here, he runs "Chainsawbars" and will give you a good bit of advice and discount:thumbup: The clutch slipping is probably worn shoes so these will need replacing however it is worth cleaning the clutch drum to make sure it isn't just gunked up and worth making sure the shoes aren't binding on the central boss - bit of overhaul this bank holiday:thumbup:
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£80 - 100 IMO for doing the seal and the following checks to make sure it is good. You could just change the seal and hope it cures the issue - not too bad removing them if you are inventive:lol:
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Classic signs of an airleak - sorry, not a simple one to resolve for the uninitiated. Note that if the saw does have an airleak then if used flat out for any length of time it may seize - check the colour of the plug and if nearing white, get it repaired. You can try making sure that both carb H&L screws are one turn out from fully in, that the tank vent is clear and that there is no dirt in the carb but it is probably the crank seal behind the clutch that has failed!
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The Stihl oil will be of higher quality and will have had more development in its manufacturer, 25:1 is more relevent to oils used in the 1980s, Amasoil is mixed at 100:1....and still works!
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You are probably quite right, quality pistons are developed with a critical amount of silicon in their metal and that gives it hardness and durabillity against heat damage during ignition. At best the piston will fit and work, at worst I have had rings break, rings snag in over bevelled ports and even an arrow pointing to the inlet port rather the exhaust port on one - bit dubious IMO:thumbdown:
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Good choice and Leo is a good trader, you will get it in 3-5 working days and have used Episan before, better than Golf and not far off Meteor - he also does Meteor but didn't have the earlier piston.
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Running a 357XP heavily ported and pop up piston at 200psi on Stihl HP.......and......whats the issue:001_rolleyes:
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Forget the Chinese ones - they can come in a bit sloppy in fit and the rings can be brittle. Fit this one - Piston Kit fit STIHL 044, 044 W, 044 R, 044 C Early Edition Chainsaw (50mm) | eBay Episan are Turkish and second in choice against the Meteor - it will work fine and is of good quality.
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Update on the 066 - it almost pulled my arm out of it's socket and when it did start - it sounded like it would let loose if I revved it:thumbdown: Too much advance I think...on to plan B:001_rolleyes:
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As Rich says, shame you aren't a little closer, recently got seven MS200T bodies that I made five solid runners out of - they are pretty easy to work on and know most of the carb issues by now:thumbup: I guess one option is to send the carb over?? Beyond the seals, the other issues are carb, impulse line and carb boot.
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Got the keyway formed in the 066 Red Eye flywheel, got it back on to the machine and it isn't a bad fit - fairly snug. A rough estimate is 28 degrees advance - 5 more than standard. Next job is to mark up a timing plate to sit above the flywheel with the degrees of advance on it and then strobe it to see what ignition advance I have! Over 28 degrees and I may have a problem:blushing: A little bit hit and miss and this saw may just wrench my arm out of it's socket but wil find out soon enough. Have learn't a little more and that is always good:thumbup:
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Sounds like you need it M8:lol:
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Great constructive comments gents:001_rolleyes: He said the chain is sharp and comments on the depth gauges being the correct height, call me sherlock but that usually means that he may know how to sharpen a chain correctly:lol: Lets stick with what Andy and I reckon - always like it when the advice is correct:thumbup: Now wheres that deer stalker and magnifying glass:001_tt2:
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God, more twins, whose the short one big in the trouser department and whose the tall beefy one:lol: Think it may be more dumb and dumber - which one are you Martin:001_tt2:
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Well I guess not but did find a karting site where they said they were soldered in place - some are not supposed to be changed - one reason I got one powered with a PP3 9volt battery - nice and simple! Sorry - can't be of further help:thumbdown:
