spudulike

The oil tank breather is to be found behind the stainless plate where the bar pushes on to - the one in my pic shows a blockage being pushed out - small round thing with a little turd of woodchip coming out! You can blow through it with a soft rubber tube, blast some cleaner through it or knock it in to the oil tank by driving it out and just soaking it or put it in a US bath. Richs tips are the laymans first shot at it, Gardenkits are the OMG, "it is still rubbish" option - the clutch does need to come off but the advice on worm drive pinion arms and oil pumps is spot on. Pumps can wear with age and on some, do lose pumping action.

Any top tips....yes....sell it on ebay and buy a two stroke:lol: The four stroke Stihl engines are the spawn of satan! If you haven't worked on them before...good luck - I did once and wish I hadn't! Listen to Barrie - he knows a bit about these.....suspect (thats me being polite).....engines.

Exorcism - It is the dark side Husky 61 taking over your workshop and casting evil spells on the Stihls - thats how it works Rich - Orange is good, just give in to it:lol:

Flat side to the outside, the grooved side on the inside as per any conventional seal! Never had any issues with them!

Nope - ithe broken key was throwing the ignition timing well out and causing the saw to backfire!

Love you too but Barrie does have a point, if the saw was running for a while and then plunged in to water, it will change the properties of the cylinder pretty quickly! The good bit of all this is the saw ran after the dunking meaning that no fatal immediate damage was done - I guess there could be some damage that didn't come out straight away. Dry it out, get fresh fuel and oil in it and possibly clear the carb out and see how it goes - if the rod is bent then the cylinder will wear quickly and compression will fall off fast! The saw will also be hard to pull over even with the plug out - is this the case......??? Let us know how it goes

Had an 028 in once, gave it a big pull to start it ......in the workshop and it gave off the biggest backfire you could imagine - scared the crap out of me and was pretty scared of pulling the starter again - came to the conclusion that the key had sheared after the second blitzkrieg bang:lol:

I have a set regime with the MS200T and when I had the one with the wrong diaphragm, I was pretty much taken aback, couldn't believe it wouldn't even fire - I now check the diaphragm and is yet another check I do! You will get there in the end, it is just a case of making sure each part is OK - one thought - have you pulled the flywheel and is the key present and OK? If the ignition timing is out a few degrees, you can get a pretty bad running engine!

Ah Spuds spark tester:thumbup:

I did put a "LOL" after it - no offence meant:blushing:, I am sure you will sort it in the end and come out richer in experience - it's how we all learn though we can all do without it when busy! Still can't get my head round the issues you have with it - sounds like a standard carb issue to me but it can't be from what you have done so far!

Here is the latest MS200T, it will rev but won't idle and bogs in the mid range:thumbdown: The owner wants it a bit hot so the exhaust port has been widened, th emuffler modded and the base gasket dropped - it should go very well once done!

I put it down to incompetence:lol: I would call a Priest in to exorcise it, it has been taken over by the devil and needs cleansing:lol: Got one with the same symptoms on my bench at the moment - a carb clean should sort it:thumbup:

The fact it ran afterwards is good and sort of means that all is OK - it has probably run the fuel out of the carb, drawn in the water impregnated water in the tank and has now got water in the carb. Don't leave it like this, either get it running or put it somewhere nice and warm to drive off the water. Drain the oil and fuel tank, take the plug out, turn ot upside down and spin it over on the starter handle quickly to get the water out of the crankcase. Turn it the right way round and get some WD40 down the plug hole and turn it over, do it again with it lying on the clutch side and again with it lying on the recoil side - make sure the WD40 gets in to the main crank bearings - don't want them rusting. If it won't start with fresh fuel - even after warming the spark plug on the gas stove - the carb will need a strip, a clean out, dry and reassemble and try again - make sure the airfilter is dry. This should get it going - hopefully the rattling is nothing - if the saw ran afterwards, I don't think there is an issue with the piston compressing against water and bending the rod!

No one got one of these flywheels - looks like a long job on the old one with a degree wheel to convert it to the later coil:thumbdown: Bugger:blushing:

It looks like a 61 to me - measure the piston - 48mm and it is a Rancher 61. Take the muffler off, get one of those red tubes that come with WD40 etc, pop it accross the piston so it pushes against the far side of the cylinder, rotate the flywheel so it nips on the upper exhaust port roof and then measure the mark to end of the tube with verniers - 48mm and you have your answer:thumbup:

Thats one sexy looking bar Rob:thumbup: very nice bits of kit, I am sure they will go like hot cakes!

Not done a 201 but from what I have read it is the same MO as the MS200t:thumbup:

Thats one of the aluminium ones that blew out:thumbdown: the reamer is OK and then used the correct tap for the job - lent to me by Burrell - cheers M8:thumbup:

Seen the same Rich, interesting stuff - sounds like a typical porting and muffler mod and then a tweak to the ignition timing makes the little buggers go like they should:thumbup: Doing yet another MS200 this weekend - did a couple last week....it just runs and runs:lol:

My reticence of helicoils for spark plugs comes from many years ago when I had one on a Yamaha FS1E - yeah, I am that old:001_rolleyes: It was melting sparkplugs -they were coming out like lumps of coal because the helicoil had poor heat transfer to the cylinder. It may have just been a bad job but it put me off them - don't worry Barrie - we are still buddies:lol: You haven't pissed me off:001_tt2: I have used EZLOK before - you ream out the original hole, retap it oversize and then put in the insert - they are nice and strong and won't come out with the plug when it is pulled out in the future! A strong solid repair! Sounds like others have had better experiences then mine so take your pick! You will find lots of kits on ebay - I have avoided the aluminium insert ones after I had one blow out - the steel ones are solid and strong!

It is a weird on Rich - are you using the Gunson Hi gauge with the schrader valve sticking out of the brass connector because 160 on that is a good reading??

The plug was probably loose and when it got to half way out - probably blew out under compression. A number of options - you can get oversize sparkplugs and re-tap to a larger thread. Not really a long term option as I have only ever seen Chinese plugs! You can helicoil it but don't like this as they can work loose and you can melt the plug through poor conduction of heat. Aluminium insert - one option but have had these blow out after a month or two. Steel insert - my favoured option as they are strong and once in, are a decent repair - you will need to fix them in with a high performance epoxy or bearing lock compound but the repair should last. A new P&C is probably £200+ or Chinese - £70 but may give long term issues on quality

Glad you got it fixed - saved me the :thumbup:job

Top man - good luck with it - just keep it away from Riches saw - the thing has some sort of virus:lol:

Normal behaviour IMO:001_rolleyes: