spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The oil tank breather appears to be some sort of tube coming from the bar side of the saw - I have done a few but can't remember the breather! The IPL is here - http://www.h-machine.jp/part_list/husqvarna/136_141_2004.pdf If the outlet and feed pipes are clear, the most probable causes of failure are the worm drive or the gear on the pump shaft. On very old machines, the pump sharf housing can wear and cause lack of pump action. Check the breather out on this parts list and make sure it is clear - you could run the saw with the cap off and see if the oiler kicks in to life!
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Looks like a similar idea, my method does give a good enough edge and at minimal cost - just can't justify a heavy service bill for a grind on a mower worth around £60! I did hear that puting the mower in a bed of sand and using the sand to grind in the cylinder and lower anvil was another option but that sounds a bit Heath Robinson to me:001_rolleyes: 30 min sharpen against hours and a lot of expense....sorry Barrie, the course emery paper and card wins every time:thumbup:
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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Damn power washer, didn't work, stripped it down again - still no good, tried it without the lance on it and all fine so tried another lance and it works fine:blushing: Fork it and bugger, it was the lance that needs a bit of TLC, the rest of it is fine Porting a 346 now - stripped, cleaned and ready for modification!
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Well.....the Qualcast 19" is serviced - oil change and sharpened the cutters then cut the grass for the first time. Used up a little of the crappy fuel/oil mix pulled out of various saws! Tore down my power washer, the thing kept starting then stopping so reckoned it was the pressure relief switch - adjusted the thing and will see how it goes now!
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<p>Hi Ed, I believe I have sold the saw but will let you know if it falls through </p>
<p>Sorry </p>
<p>Steve</p>
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The early Kawasaki Z1 engines failed and the route cause was found to be that when you gave it a fist full, most of the oil in the sump ended up at the back of the engine and starved the oil pickup - result, they fited a plate in the bottom of the sump to stop the shift of oil on acceleration.....simples:thumbup: Oh - for the unintiated - ZI=1000cc old school superbike:thumbup:
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Well that pretty much covers it....Chemistry class over:lol:
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Mmm, brothers mate had a Cortina with one and the rear was hard strutted - didn't corner too well but was fast in a straight line! The bike engine looks the easiest option to me - motocrosser is the way to go!
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Nice job Alec:thumbup:
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I carry business cards - very useful as they remind me what my name is, the job I do and where I should be going each morning....if you write your home address on the back...........
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A step forward to getting this Stihl Red Eye working, tried a few different settings - one was backfiring, one was spitting back through the carb and the other almost wrenched my arm off:thumbdown: Went back to the MS650 I have and measured 22 degrees of advance again so reset the Red Eye back to as close to 22 degs advance now I know where on the flywheel to the coil it fires the spark. Fired it up again and got it running well, good idle and pickup so now need to key the flywheel to give the magic 22 degrees of advance ignition - what a job:001_rolleyes: It advances 10-15 degrees when revved so will end up at 32 - 37 degrees - about right!
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This is the correct way of removing a seal but isn't the ONLY way:lol:
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Be damn sure this is correct - I have seen 3/8 on a 0.325 sprocket before - it was gruesome and didn't do the saw a lot of good - you should be able to pull the chain around the bar in both directions easily and with little resistance all being well! Check the sprocket type, the chain pitch and the bar pitch, if the bar is 3/8" then the chain and sprocket should also be 3/8th.
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Does heated handles need any extra maintenance?
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
I have done a couple....357XP locally and a 346Xp very recently! No reports back but am guessing that they get extra hot - about right with this weather! -
Does heated handles need any extra maintenance?
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
Not really - just need checks to the wiring and switch if they fail. I do wonder how much power the heated handles take from the machine as you can feel the resistance the magnets make on the crank - guess you have toasty hands though:thumbup: -
Sounds like the bar has done it's best, you can close the rails and level them but not a job for the beginner. Try getting the bar details from here - OREGON®: Selector Guide Or you can try mailing "Rob D" on here, he runs "Chainsawbars" and will give you a good bit of advice and discount:thumbup: The clutch slipping is probably worn shoes so these will need replacing however it is worth cleaning the clutch drum to make sure it isn't just gunked up and worth making sure the shoes aren't binding on the central boss - bit of overhaul this bank holiday:thumbup:
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£80 - 100 IMO for doing the seal and the following checks to make sure it is good. You could just change the seal and hope it cures the issue - not too bad removing them if you are inventive:lol:
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Classic signs of an airleak - sorry, not a simple one to resolve for the uninitiated. Note that if the saw does have an airleak then if used flat out for any length of time it may seize - check the colour of the plug and if nearing white, get it repaired. You can try making sure that both carb H&L screws are one turn out from fully in, that the tank vent is clear and that there is no dirt in the carb but it is probably the crank seal behind the clutch that has failed!
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The Stihl oil will be of higher quality and will have had more development in its manufacturer, 25:1 is more relevent to oils used in the 1980s, Amasoil is mixed at 100:1....and still works!
