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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. I have done a couple....357XP locally and a 346Xp very recently! No reports back but am guessing that they get extra hot - about right with this weather!
  2. Not really - just need checks to the wiring and switch if they fail. I do wonder how much power the heated handles take from the machine as you can feel the resistance the magnets make on the crank - guess you have toasty hands though:thumbup:
  3. Sounds like the bar has done it's best, you can close the rails and level them but not a job for the beginner. Try getting the bar details from here - OREGON®: Selector Guide Or you can try mailing "Rob D" on here, he runs "Chainsawbars" and will give you a good bit of advice and discount:thumbup: The clutch slipping is probably worn shoes so these will need replacing however it is worth cleaning the clutch drum to make sure it isn't just gunked up and worth making sure the shoes aren't binding on the central boss - bit of overhaul this bank holiday:thumbup:
  4. £80 - 100 IMO for doing the seal and the following checks to make sure it is good. You could just change the seal and hope it cures the issue - not too bad removing them if you are inventive:lol:
  5. Classic signs of an airleak - sorry, not a simple one to resolve for the uninitiated. Note that if the saw does have an airleak then if used flat out for any length of time it may seize - check the colour of the plug and if nearing white, get it repaired. You can try making sure that both carb H&L screws are one turn out from fully in, that the tank vent is clear and that there is no dirt in the carb but it is probably the crank seal behind the clutch that has failed!
  6. The Stihl oil will be of higher quality and will have had more development in its manufacturer, 25:1 is more relevent to oils used in the 1980s, Amasoil is mixed at 100:1....and still works!
  7. You are probably quite right, quality pistons are developed with a critical amount of silicon in their metal and that gives it hardness and durabillity against heat damage during ignition. At best the piston will fit and work, at worst I have had rings break, rings snag in over bevelled ports and even an arrow pointing to the inlet port rather the exhaust port on one - bit dubious IMO:thumbdown:
  8. Good choice and Leo is a good trader, you will get it in 3-5 working days and have used Episan before, better than Golf and not far off Meteor - he also does Meteor but didn't have the earlier piston.
  9. Running a 357XP heavily ported and pop up piston at 200psi on Stihl HP.......and......whats the issue:001_rolleyes:
  10. Forget the Chinese ones - they can come in a bit sloppy in fit and the rings can be brittle. Fit this one - Piston Kit fit STIHL 044, 044 W, 044 R, 044 C Early Edition Chainsaw (50mm) | eBay Episan are Turkish and second in choice against the Meteor - it will work fine and is of good quality.
  11. Update on the 066 - it almost pulled my arm out of it's socket and when it did start - it sounded like it would let loose if I revved it:thumbdown: Too much advance I think...on to plan B:001_rolleyes:
  12. As Rich says, shame you aren't a little closer, recently got seven MS200T bodies that I made five solid runners out of - they are pretty easy to work on and know most of the carb issues by now:thumbup: I guess one option is to send the carb over?? Beyond the seals, the other issues are carb, impulse line and carb boot.
  13. Got the keyway formed in the 066 Red Eye flywheel, got it back on to the machine and it isn't a bad fit - fairly snug. A rough estimate is 28 degrees advance - 5 more than standard. Next job is to mark up a timing plate to sit above the flywheel with the degrees of advance on it and then strobe it to see what ignition advance I have! Over 28 degrees and I may have a problem:blushing: A little bit hit and miss and this saw may just wrench my arm out of it's socket but wil find out soon enough. Have learn't a little more and that is always good:thumbup:
  14. Great constructive comments gents:001_rolleyes: He said the chain is sharp and comments on the depth gauges being the correct height, call me sherlock but that usually means that he may know how to sharpen a chain correctly:lol: Lets stick with what Andy and I reckon - always like it when the advice is correct:thumbup: Now wheres that deer stalker and magnifying glass:001_tt2:
  15. God, more twins, whose the short one big in the trouser department and whose the tall beefy one:lol: Think it may be more dumb and dumber - which one are you Martin:001_tt2:
  16. Well I guess not but did find a karting site where they said they were soldered in place - some are not supposed to be changed - one reason I got one powered with a PP3 9volt battery - nice and simple! Sorry - can't be of further help:thumbdown:
  17. Quite possibly - but he is still short:lol:
  18. Just an early sign that the clutch springs are getting a bit slack. Normally at idle, the clutch springs should be keeping the clutch shoes fully retracted!
  19. Well the first attempt failed - got the degree wheel on, found TDC and then used a piston stop to hold the crank at 23 deg advance, sharpened the key and drove on the flywheel.....damn, Stihl flywheels have a steel central boss - it flattened my nice sharp key so am now filing in a new keyway and it should give some sort of registration crank to flywheel and will test with the degree wheel before attempting an arm wrenching test pull:blushing:
  20. If the chain is in good condition then it is highly likely the bar has splayed rails and possibly one is worn more than the other. I have had a tuned saw at full bore in the wood with nothing coming out and no depth being made down to a bar that has worn. Try to roll the chain from side to side in the bar - best done with the machine switched off:blushing: and see what th eroll is like. Also remove the bar, put it in a bench vice and put a steel rule across the rails 90 degrees to the cut and look for the rails being longer on one side that the other (the rule will not be square to the bar). A sign of this is the cutters on one side of the chain getting polished away and the other side looking almost new!
  21. Barries your man - think we must have been twins in a previous life:thumbup: If the saw is making a ring ting tinging sound - a bit like a small tinging bell then it will be as GK says - the clutch shoes just catching the sprocket drum. The fix - either lower your idle a tad and if this is not possible, fit new clutch springs. A simple test - apply your chainbrake and see if it goes. 346XPs tend to have rattly clutches, the shoes actually move on the worn central spider carrier part - a new clutch will sort this but it does give a heavier sounding rattle - new springs may also help. Other than this - you may have a bar side crank bearing rattling or small end play/rattle but far less likely! Good luck!
  22. Just said the same thing on my bench thread:blushing: Think the OP has enough to go by or totally confuse him by now:lol:
  23. MS200 - pretty simple job, as Rich says, take the torx 27 screw out of the lower handle and then the AV mount will either unscrew by hand or I use a pair of long nose pliers on the thin steel plate between the AV rubber and the saw crankcase to unscrew the AV from the crankcase - if you have the new one, you will see what we mean. As far as the blower goes, the bubble either needs replacing or can be cleared in a decent Ultrasonic Cleaner - the carb fault also sounds like the carb needs a good clean - it may be just woodchip in the small gauze filter under the carb top cover - the one with the single screw holding it on but could also be petrol residue/resin in the jets which is a carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner job. Worth looking at the fuel pipes and filter at the same time. Good luck

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