spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Glad to see you got them in the right way round
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You haven't heard me play, not as sweet as your 372XP:lol:
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Nice......Very nice, got a Telecaster. Yamaha Pacifica and an Epiphone Les Paul Gold in the collection. just no time to play them!
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Been there, the lathe is too small - who needs fingers....fingers are for whimps:blushing: Just need a reverse gear on the mower - can't be that hard....can it??
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Mmmm - you don't know what is going through my mind though:blushing:
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Now theres an idea - motorbike, back wheel off, side cover off the mower.................. Of course you are right about the leading edge but TBH can't be arsed to take the cylinder out to do it the long way, I got the mower off my dad who had at some time clumped the cylinder and it had a high point that I took down using the "emery and beer mat" which stopped it thumpinng the anvil and got it level. It cuts fine but guess it could always be better - will have to get my thinking cap on....will the mower run upside down???? Wonder if I can get it running backwards!
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The oil tank breather appears to be some sort of tube coming from the bar side of the saw - I have done a few but can't remember the breather! The IPL is here - http://www.h-machine.jp/part_list/husqvarna/136_141_2004.pdf If the outlet and feed pipes are clear, the most probable causes of failure are the worm drive or the gear on the pump shaft. On very old machines, the pump sharf housing can wear and cause lack of pump action. Check the breather out on this parts list and make sure it is clear - you could run the saw with the cap off and see if the oiler kicks in to life!
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Looks like a similar idea, my method does give a good enough edge and at minimal cost - just can't justify a heavy service bill for a grind on a mower worth around £60! I did hear that puting the mower in a bed of sand and using the sand to grind in the cylinder and lower anvil was another option but that sounds a bit Heath Robinson to me:001_rolleyes: 30 min sharpen against hours and a lot of expense....sorry Barrie, the course emery paper and card wins every time:thumbup:
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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From the album: Husqvarna 335XPT
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Damn power washer, didn't work, stripped it down again - still no good, tried it without the lance on it and all fine so tried another lance and it works fine:blushing: Fork it and bugger, it was the lance that needs a bit of TLC, the rest of it is fine Porting a 346 now - stripped, cleaned and ready for modification!
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Well.....the Qualcast 19" is serviced - oil change and sharpened the cutters then cut the grass for the first time. Used up a little of the crappy fuel/oil mix pulled out of various saws! Tore down my power washer, the thing kept starting then stopping so reckoned it was the pressure relief switch - adjusted the thing and will see how it goes now!
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<p>Hi Ed, I believe I have sold the saw but will let you know if it falls through </p>
<p>Sorry </p>
<p>Steve</p>
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The early Kawasaki Z1 engines failed and the route cause was found to be that when you gave it a fist full, most of the oil in the sump ended up at the back of the engine and starved the oil pickup - result, they fited a plate in the bottom of the sump to stop the shift of oil on acceleration.....simples:thumbup: Oh - for the unintiated - ZI=1000cc old school superbike:thumbup:
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Well that pretty much covers it....Chemistry class over:lol:
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Mmm, brothers mate had a Cortina with one and the rear was hard strutted - didn't corner too well but was fast in a straight line! The bike engine looks the easiest option to me - motocrosser is the way to go!
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Nice job Alec:thumbup:
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I carry business cards - very useful as they remind me what my name is, the job I do and where I should be going each morning....if you write your home address on the back...........
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A step forward to getting this Stihl Red Eye working, tried a few different settings - one was backfiring, one was spitting back through the carb and the other almost wrenched my arm off:thumbdown: Went back to the MS650 I have and measured 22 degrees of advance again so reset the Red Eye back to as close to 22 degs advance now I know where on the flywheel to the coil it fires the spark. Fired it up again and got it running well, good idle and pickup so now need to key the flywheel to give the magic 22 degrees of advance ignition - what a job:001_rolleyes: It advances 10-15 degrees when revved so will end up at 32 - 37 degrees - about right!
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This is the correct way of removing a seal but isn't the ONLY way:lol:
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Be damn sure this is correct - I have seen 3/8 on a 0.325 sprocket before - it was gruesome and didn't do the saw a lot of good - you should be able to pull the chain around the bar in both directions easily and with little resistance all being well! Check the sprocket type, the chain pitch and the bar pitch, if the bar is 3/8" then the chain and sprocket should also be 3/8th.
