spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It is clear that the trimmer is resenting being worked on by someone that has bad feelings for anything that hasn't come out of the Stihl factory so is playing up:thumbup: The part is probably genuine then - you sure it is the correct part and the parts it is meshing with are OK? The recoil system is used on loads of Husqvarna saws so there must be more that is being missed......Oh Lord - another Riches MS200 thread:001_rolleyes:
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Yeah - the MS200T is without the best topper made in recent history but that doesn't mean every Husky product is a load of old rowlocks:001_rolleyes: That recoil pulley that you have that is made of something ressembling soft French Cheese will have a number like 5XX XX XX-XX on it and possibly "EM" if it is a real Husqvarna one. It will also have a date code in a circular format with the year in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month of manufacture or something very similar - unlike Stihl, with this one, you can actually tell when it was manufactured - God bless the Swedes:001_tt2: Funny enough, the last non standard recoil pulley I found was on an MS200T - that was crap to:001_rolleyes:
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Nothing worse than Aspen sniffing Stihl owners:lol: The trimmers are a bit fast, opened up the Wolfmans muffler and the think revved like a Pro Am TZ250 off the start line at Brands:lol:
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The missing bolt is part- 503 69 63-02 The parts list is here: - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1997_AAaa/HUSI1997_AAaa_I9700011_.pdf
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See what you mean, fine condition and it looks like that missing bolt is the cap for the greasing point!
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That's a good offer from a decent bloke
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Yeah, funny ha ha - thats a rim drive:001_rolleyes: and you better use "Piles" - takes less spelling prowess
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It was the missing screws - one on the recoil, one on the carb, then the two holding the lower air box molding in place, an AV mount I helicoiled and the one that needed drilling and tapping that were unexpected! The rest of it wasn't too bad! Much cleaner now, Your rim is on order and so is the piston for the 036.
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Put a picture up so we can see what you are on about, Rob D may be able to assist???
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Funny you should say that - got an 084 coming in next week and a 395XP almost ready to test:thumbup:
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Pretty much finished the 395XP, just needs a new rim drive, started work on a 036, the owner knew it was seized and it is:thumbdown: carb settings are OK so guess it is old fuel or an air leak but will se what gives once the saw is back together. Cleaned the cylinder, a little rough below the exhaust port but looks OK above so a new piston and all should be OK again!
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Mmmm - what are you and Martin doing this week then:001_rolleyes: Conifer by any chance! Just got to hit the rest with the 357XP - just done another tweak on it and will see what it gives me:thumbup:
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That looks fixable to me, strange getting intake transfer but it should clean up. Just make sure it is the OEM part and not some Chinese crap you are lavishing effort on:001_rolleyes:
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Guess you could pop a pilot hole in with a compass or awl and then push the spur through, I usually just push it in carefully and centrally then folloy up with a continuity check to make sure it is OK.
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From what I have found, the main gains to be found are from a muffler mod, ignition advance and porting. Unfortunately the ignition mod is a degree wheel job, cock it up and you run the risk of detonation but it does appear to have a very positive effect. Like most of these mods, you do what you can and then measure the results. Not one I have done to date but reckon that may well change soon. Lots of my nodded MS200 out there now!
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It is the small spring spur that sits inside the plug cap not pushing through the HT wires and making contact. You still get a spark because the HT will jump 5mm + but can cause a few issues and something I pick up on when doing an all in problematic machine. Some Huskys are sealed in - most of the new ones are but I have fixed them in the past, this one was screw in and 7mm HT is useless on small kit like this, it must be 5mm.....sorry:blushing: One for the bin:lol:
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I think that many of the saws I get in have never been cleaned before! I reckon to remove around 3-4 mug fulls of crap from an average MS200T on a full refurb!
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Another happy ending:thumbup:
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SOunds like th eL screw is a little lean and only works when the saw has a bit of warmth in it. The 346/357 saws are like this and bog on the first three or so grabs at the throttle but pick up well soon after. Try giving the L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn out (counterclockwise) and adjust the idle up a tad to compensate as the revs will drop with the richer mix. You may have other issues - the sparkplug colour should be a nice coffee tan colour - any deviation to this - especially white and you need some expert help as you may have an air leak but would think a lean L screw is most likely. Sorry to contradict others but say as I would do. If the saw is excessivly smokey when cold it may be an over rich mix - but less likely IMO.
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Ask Burrell (Martin), he has converted a 024 to an 026 - he also bakes a nice cake:lol:
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Started work on a Husqvarna 395XP, it has a bit of a stumble on running sometimes. Repalcing a few screws that are missing, re-tapped a couple of holes, helicoiled another, replaced a screw missing on the carb cover - 13 year old saw:001_rolleyes: Carb in the US cleaner, replaced and rebuilt the HT lead which is good now. Just need to take a look at the clutch, pressure/vac check and then do a final run up and tach tune. Should be fine after this! Almost forgot - rebuilt the kill switch wiring - didn't work but does now!
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MS200T just rebuilt for a chappie in Wales - last fault found - a hole blown in to the pumping membrane flap - seen this one a few times now! FIxed Alec AGG221 dodgy Stihl 026, initially had done a pressure/vac check and a carb tune but still wouldnt pull although it seemed OK when I handed it back:blushing: The plug lead needed sorting as there was lack of continuity on it. I then tried cutting with it and seemed OK for a bit but then started dying and playing up, tried a couple of settings on the L screw and once I leaned it right up and richened up the H screw, it all came alive and works fine. Gave it some abuse with a lot of noodling as can be seen and works just fine now:thumbup: Is it just me or are these 024/026 a right pain on carb adjustment - very finiky and a right PITA to ge right - seems to be on older carbs!
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A good thread - I almost lost my sight as a kid and it was a pretty bad moment in my life. Apart from cutting - the workshop is also a danger area, clutch springs, recoil springs, compressors, carb cleaner, WD40 etc - STICK ON THE SAFETY SPECS, they are only £3.00 off ebay and have protected my eyes many a time!
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Good point - when the saw is playing up, tilt it in its side, loosen the fuel cap and start it up and see if it revs out and idles OK, if it does then it is a blocked fuel tank vent. General symptoms are the top end goes loopy at some time after running, then it won't rev out and may idle fine or die depending on how blocked it is. Basically the fuel pumping area of the saw (Carb/Impulse) is pulling against a vacuum in the fuel tank caused by the vent failing to let air in to replace the fuel taken out by the saw running.
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That sounds like the text book version of what I wrote in my post just before this one. I would think Rich knew what he meant from experience!
