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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. A compressor airline would be far better, the ingress of water would cause the clutch and needle bearing to sieze and may well cause other problems. If you cleaned the saw in this way, you would need to run it up to hot very soon after but not a great idea IMO and would not remove dried pine resin of that gloopy old bio oil!
  2. Sounds like low compression - compression drops when a saw is hot and can cause re-starting issues. Other than that - check the spark when it won't start and check the fuel lines, carb and impulse line - the line that transfers the crankcase void pressure and vacuum to the carb pumping section to pump fuel up from the fuel tank.
  3. Lots of testosterone here and think it should end up in the field - saw horse, cord and some fast saws - put up or shut up - No Quarter asked no quarter given - winner takes all:lol: It is about time for another boys day out - got an 066 that I may well port and run a huge 13 bar on it, that and the 346 and 357 lets rip....Stihl V Husky, lets see who is king - anything goes. Don't forget the stopwatch:thumbup1: Takers.........???
  4. I dress to the left.......does that help:blushing: Sorry - someone had to:001_rolleyes:
  5. Guess I should come clean with what I use - rubber from wellington boots with holes punched in it to match carb and exhaust mounting hole pitches:thumbup: Nice and soft and works well with a smear of grease on it - just fit it between the exhaust and cylinder or carb and manifold! The wife is still wondering what happened to her right wellie - we never found it:blushing:
  6. I used a car ball joint splitter on my 254, you may be able to use a conventional puller on it!
  7. Standard way of plugging the carb hole is to use soft rubber sheet between the carb and the inlet manifold - not sure if this can be done in your case - I usually plug the impulse seperately but all saws are a little bit different! Thinking about it, I think the plastic plate will need to be refitted with a rubber sheet added between this and the carb! Looking at the IPL, the seal should be removeable by removing the flywheel and the clutch assembly to get at the respective seals. You are lucky it isn't a clam type engine with combined seals and crank bearings!
  8. I've had a few older saws - 920 Jonnie, Husky 181, Husky 298 and all took a bit of a pull and I know it is frowned upon and probably for good reason but a bloody good drop start is sometimes the less painful way of getting one of these saws fired up - especially if the state is a bit dubious! Just my own opinion and a 3' bar plus makes it almost impossible so a ground start and busted fingers is the only option!
  9. The reason modern saws start easier is partly down to the decomp but is also down to the fact the modern coils have built in advance in their electronics. When the saw is started, the ignition timing is only slightly advanced on newer machines whereas on older machines, they have a single state of advance that is a compromise between good top end speed and ease of start. If the older saw is started without gusto, the piston will come up to near top dead centre and on ignition, will get thrown backward down the bore taking your fingers with it! I usually find a stout grip and a bloody fast drop start gets the bigger saws going! The 3120 will have 4-5 points of advance in its ignition curve - the 2101 will probably be set to something like 25 degrees advance - a decomp will help but it will still kick a fair bit more than the 3120XP!
  10. If the revs stay high and the chain keeps spinning when the throttle is released, it won't be the clutch, if the revs drop to normal idle and the chain keeps spinning it may be clutch or clutch spring. The revs not snapping down to normal when the throttle is released is generally down to the throttle sticking open or an air leak - the extra air in the fuel/air vapour gives the same symptom as running out of fuel. Get the exact symptoms to us and we will diagnose the fault:thumbup:
  11. It has some symptoms of an air leak, or does also have some similar symptoms to some of the MS200 carb issues! What fort of US cleaner did you use as a decent one does clear many of the issues!
  12. The Grey carb boot can leak under pressure on old ones, it would be worth replacing both and if this doesn't fix it, the clutch side crank seal is the most likely problem area.
  13. I think many drop off their waste by the side of the road up by the back of the airport:001_rolleyes:
  14. Now now Barrie, you are sounding like the wife now:lol:
  15. Ooooohhhhhh Barries dirty photos, pure smut, we like the one that is sticking out of the oiled cylinder....filth:blushing:
  16. Smile nervously, walk away and don't mention it again:blushing:
  17. Pretty much what I was thinking but am not a pro Arb bod - the trunk will pinch the bar if you just try to cut from the top only - that was lesson 1 a few years ago:blushing: Lived to tell the tale:001_rolleyes:
  18. It is diversification, tree surgery one day, house clearence the next - whatever brings the money in:001_rolleyes:
  19. I knew you wanted to:thumbup: Just got to mention Aspen now but think you already have:001_rolleyes: Think we should port it:thumbup:
  20. Seals - generally I use Greenstripe - if any sponsors can help then please chime in - I just use what I find convenient:thumbup: Here is the IPL - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1991_AAaa/HUSI1991_AAaa_I9100011_.pdf There is a circular carb boot that can go hard and a smaller impulse rubber insert that often cracks - Garden Kit has a nice photo that he likes to air every now and then. Go on GK, you know you want to:lol: The seal pullers - genuine Stihl, got them off ebay for half price - full price is around £100:blushing: oh eck - that,s a lot of wonga.
  21. Mmmm, what do we know on here.....when there are experts about:001_rolleyes: Sorry to hear you have still got issues, we did try to help - keep us informed and will be interesting to see if they put your old carb back now it hasn't cleared the issue. Think it bears out why I am always so busy - same goes for GK:thumbup:
  22. Group hug lads, Barrie gets to wear the cape and his underpants on the outside of his trousers tonight - probably get arrested where he is, up here it would be mistaken for a stag doo:lol:
  23. I think you will find it should be level with the surounding casting of the carb body. Are you gonna bring that 026 round sometime so I can have another go at it - gotta be electrical I reckon! Did you fit a new welch plug when you did the carb rebuild?
  24. If you are local then they have a trade counter, if you order online - 3 - 5 days is typical if the parts are in stock. Don't know why you are asking me - I don't work for them:lol:
  25. I'm old enough to remember the four day working week and the threat of the three day working week, power cuts, car worker strikes, newspaper strikes and the miners strikes....Oh - and the Irish problems - and we think we have problems now:lol: The Callaghan Goverment was proving pretty ineffective in resolving these issues, difficult to show strength against the Unions when your government depends on their money! Something had to be done - just think of the mess if it had carried on another four years. I do remember earning some good dosh through the eighties, solid economy, good growth and some decent times - it didn't end too well though but we still managed well exporting to Germany......and in Manufacturing! Maggie wasn't good for manufacturing but it was the ex Eastern Bloc countries and China that did us in in the end and not Maggie. Like it is often the case....we had a leader for the times - just my opinion!

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