spudulike

Interesting point that, I think many believe the strato engines are all to do with performance but it is in fact a system to fill the upper part of the transfers with fresh air so this is used to drive the exhaust gases out of the cylinder (Scavanging) and not fuel air vapour as in conventional engines - some of which will escape causing polution!

Had a Stihl 084 come in today, not running and sounded pretty strange when pulled over. Looked down the plug hole and Mmmm, looked seized. Took the muffler off and the piston was fried and it was then I looked at the base of the cylinder and noticed a crack in it - gave it a poke and a great lump of cylinder became dislodged. It looks like the front cylinder bolts had come out, this caused an air leak, the saw seized and during this happening, the cylinder moved and the piston slapped a great chunk of cylinder out the front of the engine. Showed the wife and her expert opinion is "it is buggered"....I tend to agree:lol: And yes, that is the piston through the hole and yes...you can also see the con rod through it also! The cylinders for these are bloody expensive, you cant get Chinese ones and apart from that, I can't be sure that the crank and con rod will be straight after this happening so looks like scrap to me:thumbdown: Shame as I hate to chuck in the towel but spending £500 on a saw this old and finding the bottom end is bad isn't worth it!

I think your chemistry is all a kilter - oven cleaner may contain sodium hydroxide that is a powerful alkali, Muriatic acid is the old name for Hydrochloric Acid and is what I generally use. Aluminium will disolve with both!

Wonder if those pawls are tight or the mounting holes have worn??

Ah, then thats the problem then:blushing: You sure the casing is sitting on the engine properly, no spacers or washers in the wrong place holding the flywheel away from the starter pulley? Can't you join a sewing or jam making forum and unleash your woes on them:001_rolleyes:

I posted this earlier Rich - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1997_AAaa/HUSI1997_AAaa_I9700011_.pdf Your camambert should be part - 503 77 53-01:thumbup: Are you sure your part is correct??

The thing can't have been made to be started like that, something has distorted, changed, been modded and now it won't work in the normal way.....something isn't right:confused1:

Rob D (Chainsawbars) is importing them in to the UK:thumbup:

It is clear that the trimmer is resenting being worked on by someone that has bad feelings for anything that hasn't come out of the Stihl factory so is playing up:thumbup: The part is probably genuine then - you sure it is the correct part and the parts it is meshing with are OK? The recoil system is used on loads of Husqvarna saws so there must be more that is being missed......Oh Lord - another Riches MS200 thread:001_rolleyes:

Yeah - the MS200T is without the best topper made in recent history but that doesn't mean every Husky product is a load of old rowlocks:001_rolleyes: That recoil pulley that you have that is made of something ressembling soft French Cheese will have a number like 5XX XX XX-XX on it and possibly "EM" if it is a real Husqvarna one. It will also have a date code in a circular format with the year in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month of manufacture or something very similar - unlike Stihl, with this one, you can actually tell when it was manufactured - God bless the Swedes:001_tt2: Funny enough, the last non standard recoil pulley I found was on an MS200T - that was crap to:001_rolleyes:

Nothing worse than Aspen sniffing Stihl owners:lol: The trimmers are a bit fast, opened up the Wolfmans muffler and the think revved like a Pro Am TZ250 off the start line at Brands:lol:

The missing bolt is part- 503 69 63-02 The parts list is here: - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1997_AAaa/HUSI1997_AAaa_I9700011_.pdf

See what you mean, fine condition and it looks like that missing bolt is the cap for the greasing point!

That's a good offer from a decent bloke

Yeah, funny ha ha - thats a rim drive:001_rolleyes: and you better use "Piles" - takes less spelling prowess

It was the missing screws - one on the recoil, one on the carb, then the two holding the lower air box molding in place, an AV mount I helicoiled and the one that needed drilling and tapping that were unexpected! The rest of it wasn't too bad! Much cleaner now, Your rim is on order and so is the piston for the 036.

Put a picture up so we can see what you are on about, Rob D may be able to assist???

Funny you should say that - got an 084 coming in next week and a 395XP almost ready to test:thumbup:

Pretty much finished the 395XP, just needs a new rim drive, started work on a 036, the owner knew it was seized and it is:thumbdown: carb settings are OK so guess it is old fuel or an air leak but will se what gives once the saw is back together. Cleaned the cylinder, a little rough below the exhaust port but looks OK above so a new piston and all should be OK again!

Mmmm - what are you and Martin doing this week then:001_rolleyes: Conifer by any chance! Just got to hit the rest with the 357XP - just done another tweak on it and will see what it gives me:thumbup:

That looks fixable to me, strange getting intake transfer but it should clean up. Just make sure it is the OEM part and not some Chinese crap you are lavishing effort on:001_rolleyes:

Guess you could pop a pilot hole in with a compass or awl and then push the spur through, I usually just push it in carefully and centrally then folloy up with a continuity check to make sure it is OK.

From what I have found, the main gains to be found are from a muffler mod, ignition advance and porting. Unfortunately the ignition mod is a degree wheel job, cock it up and you run the risk of detonation but it does appear to have a very positive effect. Like most of these mods, you do what you can and then measure the results. Not one I have done to date but reckon that may well change soon. Lots of my nodded MS200 out there now!

It is the small spring spur that sits inside the plug cap not pushing through the HT wires and making contact. You still get a spark because the HT will jump 5mm + but can cause a few issues and something I pick up on when doing an all in problematic machine. Some Huskys are sealed in - most of the new ones are but I have fixed them in the past, this one was screw in and 7mm HT is useless on small kit like this, it must be 5mm.....sorry:blushing: One for the bin:lol:

I think that many of the saws I get in have never been cleaned before! I reckon to remove around 3-4 mug fulls of crap from an average MS200T on a full refurb!