spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It doesn't say how powerful the cleaner is, the cleaning agent or if it is heated. All you dudes that have sent saws to me in the past three months have been heated and blasted in a high power unit with specific carb cleaning agent that de-greases and dissolves resin:thumbup:
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See if Gustharts can get one in for you - pretty good service in the past:thumbup:
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Try This - http://www.bethnchris.com/files/chainsaws/sachsdolmar/116si_IPL.pdf Oregon part - rim sprocket 27189X will fit as will Spur sprocket - 38075X
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Strange - you normally notice a far quicker pickup and heavier fourstroking where the saw would normally top out allowing higher maximum revs.
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The latest MS200T, looks like it has seen some life but compression is good, going to give it a full refurb and port/tune. A number of parts on order and now looking a fair bit cleaner: -
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Thats one minging piston - like the garnish of needle rollers - just need a jus of carbon crap - bloody cooking programs:001_rolleyes:
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A dodgy piston will look like this: -
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Call me Mr Thicky but your air injection duct is on back to front - that thing that looks like a mini tuba should be facing toward the rear handle. Is this melting on the cylinder? Can you take a better picture of that piston - difficult to tell what it is like. If it has many scored lines running vertical across the surface through the exhaust port then it is shot!
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Hope you beveled the exhaust port:001_rolleyes: Those transfers look interesting, reckon those can be cleaned up:thumbup:
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Must be one on ebay, worth seeing if other saws share the same coil!
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Just cut out that internal pipe and knock off those internal drilled baffle plates, should make quite a difference. What else are you gonna do?
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Yup, 15", 0.325" Narrow Kerf - be interesting to time it against yours, to see what the difference is. From the vid, it sounds like it is hitting some high revs in the cut and deep in the wood!
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Mmmm - your pile of logs keeps giving - useful to have a pile like that by the front door - you got any more:001_rolleyes: Yes, the saw is pretty good - and it wasn't that warm - be interesting at the next boys day out!
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Tested out the 357XP after a little more work on it last weekend - seems a tad fast:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnxCHYz4DBQ]357XP Ported and Pop up Piston Latest tune - YouTube[/ame]
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They have either pinched a bit they needed or had no idea on how to remove the handle - both pretty pathetic IMO:thumbdown:
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The risk of a damaged flywheel is vibration and damage to the crankcases bearings. If the replacement cost is prohibitive then balancing it roughly by knocking of opposite fins is an option on a saw with no great value I have seen bearings damaged with a really bad flywheel but your plan sounds fine to me - got two of these in my collection of saws to refurb!
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Tached the 395XP today - all fine as were the two MS200Ts. One rebuild/port and the other with poor pick up and bogging in the mid range - turned out to be accelerator pump issues as cleanng it made it a lot worse. Funnily enough, the idle was perfect! Got to say the 395XP sounds great:thumbup: All fine now - boxed and ready to be sent out. Got the 036 piston to fit and test and then another MS200T to do over the weekend - Think it was a Neil Young album that was called "Rust Never Sleeps" - should have been "Spud Never Sleeps":lol:
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Yup, that's two of us now
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Cheers Rob, glad I wasn't talking bolocks:thumbup:
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The excess gasket on the crankcase maing surface with the cylinder MUST be trimmed - I use a wood working chisel to finely cut the excess off and get it flat. If you don't do this, you are likely to get an airleak around this area.
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Think it is a bit past that point:lol: JB is good but not THAT good!
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Only run a 353 once and it seemed pretty lame compared to the 346XP, no experience of the 543 though!
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There is a bit of overlap and have looked at a standard Husqvarna bar and on a 357 it doesn't impact on the oiler hole and on an older 346XP, it only impacts on the hole if the bar is on it's most retracted position Just checked my new edition 346XP - as yours is and the clutch cover blanks off the other side of the hole so at worst, it will fill up with oil and then push the oil in to the conventional channel - so, don't worry!
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Ah, can see what you are talking about now, you are saying that the oiler channel isn't sealed by the bar and it will drain in the adjustment locater hole in the bar! Guess it depends on if the hole is sealed by the plate on the clutch cover or not, if oil escapes from the normal route then it will reduce the oil reaching the chain. The standard test is to point the bar at a piece of fresh cut wood and rev the nuts off the saw and make sure you get a track of oil left on the wood. Are you sure the bar is the correct one for the 346XP, you have got large and small bar mounts on Husky bars. Does the outline match your previous bar?
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Same technology, uses channels in the piston sides to draw fresh air from the inlet side and pass it through to the transfer tops so the charge of scavanging gas contains pure air at the top so no fuel vapour is lost when scavanging the spent exhaust gases and hence cleaner burn engine. Air head.....very apt name:thumbup:
