spudulike

Just cut out that internal pipe and knock off those internal drilled baffle plates, should make quite a difference. What else are you gonna do?

Yup, 15", 0.325" Narrow Kerf - be interesting to time it against yours, to see what the difference is. From the vid, it sounds like it is hitting some high revs in the cut and deep in the wood!

Mmmm - your pile of logs keeps giving - useful to have a pile like that by the front door - you got any more:001_rolleyes: Yes, the saw is pretty good - and it wasn't that warm - be interesting at the next boys day out!

Tested out the 357XP after a little more work on it last weekend - seems a tad fast:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnxCHYz4DBQ]357XP Ported and Pop up Piston Latest tune - YouTube[/ame]

They have either pinched a bit they needed or had no idea on how to remove the handle - both pretty pathetic IMO:thumbdown:

The risk of a damaged flywheel is vibration and damage to the crankcases bearings. If the replacement cost is prohibitive then balancing it roughly by knocking of opposite fins is an option on a saw with no great value I have seen bearings damaged with a really bad flywheel but your plan sounds fine to me - got two of these in my collection of saws to refurb!

Tached the 395XP today - all fine as were the two MS200Ts. One rebuild/port and the other with poor pick up and bogging in the mid range - turned out to be accelerator pump issues as cleanng it made it a lot worse. Funnily enough, the idle was perfect! Got to say the 395XP sounds great:thumbup: All fine now - boxed and ready to be sent out. Got the 036 piston to fit and test and then another MS200T to do over the weekend - Think it was a Neil Young album that was called "Rust Never Sleeps" - should have been "Spud Never Sleeps":lol:

Yup, that's two of us now

Cheers Rob, glad I wasn't talking bolocks:thumbup:

The excess gasket on the crankcase maing surface with the cylinder MUST be trimmed - I use a wood working chisel to finely cut the excess off and get it flat. If you don't do this, you are likely to get an airleak around this area.

Think it is a bit past that point:lol: JB is good but not THAT good!

Only run a 353 once and it seemed pretty lame compared to the 346XP, no experience of the 543 though!

There is a bit of overlap and have looked at a standard Husqvarna bar and on a 357 it doesn't impact on the oiler hole and on an older 346XP, it only impacts on the hole if the bar is on it's most retracted position Just checked my new edition 346XP - as yours is and the clutch cover blanks off the other side of the hole so at worst, it will fill up with oil and then push the oil in to the conventional channel - so, don't worry!

Ah, can see what you are talking about now, you are saying that the oiler channel isn't sealed by the bar and it will drain in the adjustment locater hole in the bar! Guess it depends on if the hole is sealed by the plate on the clutch cover or not, if oil escapes from the normal route then it will reduce the oil reaching the chain. The standard test is to point the bar at a piece of fresh cut wood and rev the nuts off the saw and make sure you get a track of oil left on the wood. Are you sure the bar is the correct one for the 346XP, you have got large and small bar mounts on Husky bars. Does the outline match your previous bar?

Same technology, uses channels in the piston sides to draw fresh air from the inlet side and pass it through to the transfer tops so the charge of scavanging gas contains pure air at the top so no fuel vapour is lost when scavanging the spent exhaust gases and hence cleaner burn engine. Air head.....very apt name:thumbup:

Interesting point that, I think many believe the strato engines are all to do with performance but it is in fact a system to fill the upper part of the transfers with fresh air so this is used to drive the exhaust gases out of the cylinder (Scavanging) and not fuel air vapour as in conventional engines - some of which will escape causing polution!

Had a Stihl 084 come in today, not running and sounded pretty strange when pulled over. Looked down the plug hole and Mmmm, looked seized. Took the muffler off and the piston was fried and it was then I looked at the base of the cylinder and noticed a crack in it - gave it a poke and a great lump of cylinder became dislodged. It looks like the front cylinder bolts had come out, this caused an air leak, the saw seized and during this happening, the cylinder moved and the piston slapped a great chunk of cylinder out the front of the engine. Showed the wife and her expert opinion is "it is buggered"....I tend to agree:lol: And yes, that is the piston through the hole and yes...you can also see the con rod through it also! The cylinders for these are bloody expensive, you cant get Chinese ones and apart from that, I can't be sure that the crank and con rod will be straight after this happening so looks like scrap to me:thumbdown: Shame as I hate to chuck in the towel but spending £500 on a saw this old and finding the bottom end is bad isn't worth it!

I think your chemistry is all a kilter - oven cleaner may contain sodium hydroxide that is a powerful alkali, Muriatic acid is the old name for Hydrochloric Acid and is what I generally use. Aluminium will disolve with both!

Wonder if those pawls are tight or the mounting holes have worn??

Ah, then thats the problem then:blushing: You sure the casing is sitting on the engine properly, no spacers or washers in the wrong place holding the flywheel away from the starter pulley? Can't you join a sewing or jam making forum and unleash your woes on them:001_rolleyes:

I posted this earlier Rich - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1997_AAaa/HUSI1997_AAaa_I9700011_.pdf Your camambert should be part - 503 77 53-01:thumbup: Are you sure your part is correct??

The thing can't have been made to be started like that, something has distorted, changed, been modded and now it won't work in the normal way.....something isn't right:confused1:

Rob D (Chainsawbars) is importing them in to the UK:thumbup:

It is clear that the trimmer is resenting being worked on by someone that has bad feelings for anything that hasn't come out of the Stihl factory so is playing up:thumbup: The part is probably genuine then - you sure it is the correct part and the parts it is meshing with are OK? The recoil system is used on loads of Husqvarna saws so there must be more that is being missed......Oh Lord - another Riches MS200 thread:001_rolleyes:

Yeah - the MS200T is without the best topper made in recent history but that doesn't mean every Husky product is a load of old rowlocks:001_rolleyes: That recoil pulley that you have that is made of something ressembling soft French Cheese will have a number like 5XX XX XX-XX on it and possibly "EM" if it is a real Husqvarna one. It will also have a date code in a circular format with the year in the middle and an arrow pointing to the month of manufacture or something very similar - unlike Stihl, with this one, you can actually tell when it was manufactured - God bless the Swedes:001_tt2: Funny enough, the last non standard recoil pulley I found was on an MS200T - that was crap to:001_rolleyes: