spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Another happy ending:thumbup:
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SOunds like th eL screw is a little lean and only works when the saw has a bit of warmth in it. The 346/357 saws are like this and bog on the first three or so grabs at the throttle but pick up well soon after. Try giving the L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn out (counterclockwise) and adjust the idle up a tad to compensate as the revs will drop with the richer mix. You may have other issues - the sparkplug colour should be a nice coffee tan colour - any deviation to this - especially white and you need some expert help as you may have an air leak but would think a lean L screw is most likely. Sorry to contradict others but say as I would do. If the saw is excessivly smokey when cold it may be an over rich mix - but less likely IMO.
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Ask Burrell (Martin), he has converted a 024 to an 026 - he also bakes a nice cake:lol:
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Started work on a Husqvarna 395XP, it has a bit of a stumble on running sometimes. Repalcing a few screws that are missing, re-tapped a couple of holes, helicoiled another, replaced a screw missing on the carb cover - 13 year old saw:001_rolleyes: Carb in the US cleaner, replaced and rebuilt the HT lead which is good now. Just need to take a look at the clutch, pressure/vac check and then do a final run up and tach tune. Should be fine after this! Almost forgot - rebuilt the kill switch wiring - didn't work but does now!
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MS200T just rebuilt for a chappie in Wales - last fault found - a hole blown in to the pumping membrane flap - seen this one a few times now! FIxed Alec AGG221 dodgy Stihl 026, initially had done a pressure/vac check and a carb tune but still wouldnt pull although it seemed OK when I handed it back:blushing: The plug lead needed sorting as there was lack of continuity on it. I then tried cutting with it and seemed OK for a bit but then started dying and playing up, tried a couple of settings on the L screw and once I leaned it right up and richened up the H screw, it all came alive and works fine. Gave it some abuse with a lot of noodling as can be seen and works just fine now:thumbup: Is it just me or are these 024/026 a right pain on carb adjustment - very finiky and a right PITA to ge right - seems to be on older carbs!
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A good thread - I almost lost my sight as a kid and it was a pretty bad moment in my life. Apart from cutting - the workshop is also a danger area, clutch springs, recoil springs, compressors, carb cleaner, WD40 etc - STICK ON THE SAFETY SPECS, they are only £3.00 off ebay and have protected my eyes many a time!
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Good point - when the saw is playing up, tilt it in its side, loosen the fuel cap and start it up and see if it revs out and idles OK, if it does then it is a blocked fuel tank vent. General symptoms are the top end goes loopy at some time after running, then it won't rev out and may idle fine or die depending on how blocked it is. Basically the fuel pumping area of the saw (Carb/Impulse) is pulling against a vacuum in the fuel tank caused by the vent failing to let air in to replace the fuel taken out by the saw running.
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That sounds like the text book version of what I wrote in my post just before this one. I would think Rich knew what he meant from experience!
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A compressor airline would be far better, the ingress of water would cause the clutch and needle bearing to sieze and may well cause other problems. If you cleaned the saw in this way, you would need to run it up to hot very soon after but not a great idea IMO and would not remove dried pine resin of that gloopy old bio oil!
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Sounds like low compression - compression drops when a saw is hot and can cause re-starting issues. Other than that - check the spark when it won't start and check the fuel lines, carb and impulse line - the line that transfers the crankcase void pressure and vacuum to the carb pumping section to pump fuel up from the fuel tank.
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Lots of testosterone here and think it should end up in the field - saw horse, cord and some fast saws - put up or shut up - No Quarter asked no quarter given - winner takes all:lol: It is about time for another boys day out - got an 066 that I may well port and run a huge 13 bar on it, that and the 346 and 357 lets rip....Stihl V Husky, lets see who is king - anything goes. Don't forget the stopwatch:thumbup1: Takers.........???
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I dress to the left.......does that help:blushing: Sorry - someone had to:001_rolleyes:
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Guess I should come clean with what I use - rubber from wellington boots with holes punched in it to match carb and exhaust mounting hole pitches:thumbup: Nice and soft and works well with a smear of grease on it - just fit it between the exhaust and cylinder or carb and manifold! The wife is still wondering what happened to her right wellie - we never found it:blushing:
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I used a car ball joint splitter on my 254, you may be able to use a conventional puller on it!
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Standard way of plugging the carb hole is to use soft rubber sheet between the carb and the inlet manifold - not sure if this can be done in your case - I usually plug the impulse seperately but all saws are a little bit different! Thinking about it, I think the plastic plate will need to be refitted with a rubber sheet added between this and the carb! Looking at the IPL, the seal should be removeable by removing the flywheel and the clutch assembly to get at the respective seals. You are lucky it isn't a clam type engine with combined seals and crank bearings!
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I've had a few older saws - 920 Jonnie, Husky 181, Husky 298 and all took a bit of a pull and I know it is frowned upon and probably for good reason but a bloody good drop start is sometimes the less painful way of getting one of these saws fired up - especially if the state is a bit dubious! Just my own opinion and a 3' bar plus makes it almost impossible so a ground start and busted fingers is the only option!
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The reason modern saws start easier is partly down to the decomp but is also down to the fact the modern coils have built in advance in their electronics. When the saw is started, the ignition timing is only slightly advanced on newer machines whereas on older machines, they have a single state of advance that is a compromise between good top end speed and ease of start. If the older saw is started without gusto, the piston will come up to near top dead centre and on ignition, will get thrown backward down the bore taking your fingers with it! I usually find a stout grip and a bloody fast drop start gets the bigger saws going! The 3120 will have 4-5 points of advance in its ignition curve - the 2101 will probably be set to something like 25 degrees advance - a decomp will help but it will still kick a fair bit more than the 3120XP!
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If the revs stay high and the chain keeps spinning when the throttle is released, it won't be the clutch, if the revs drop to normal idle and the chain keeps spinning it may be clutch or clutch spring. The revs not snapping down to normal when the throttle is released is generally down to the throttle sticking open or an air leak - the extra air in the fuel/air vapour gives the same symptom as running out of fuel. Get the exact symptoms to us and we will diagnose the fault:thumbup:
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It has some symptoms of an air leak, or does also have some similar symptoms to some of the MS200 carb issues! What fort of US cleaner did you use as a decent one does clear many of the issues!
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The Grey carb boot can leak under pressure on old ones, it would be worth replacing both and if this doesn't fix it, the clutch side crank seal is the most likely problem area.
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I think many drop off their waste by the side of the road up by the back of the airport:001_rolleyes:
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Now now Barrie, you are sounding like the wife now:lol:
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Ooooohhhhhh Barries dirty photos, pure smut, we like the one that is sticking out of the oiled cylinder....filth:blushing:
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Smile nervously, walk away and don't mention it again:blushing:
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Pretty much what I was thinking but am not a pro Arb bod - the trunk will pinch the bar if you just try to cut from the top only - that was lesson 1 a few years ago:blushing: Lived to tell the tale:001_rolleyes:
