spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Always do Barrie:thumbup: - last couple have been the earth strap - not obvious until you either meter it out of give it a pull:blushing: Oh er missus:lol:
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Thanks for the offer Matty, does this have anything to do with that 372 with the busted crankcase:blushing::lol: I will probably be able to do a reasonable job on it when I get round to it, a Saturday off would be nice at the moment:001_rolleyes: cheers anyway!
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Try this link Mike - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=cabrio%2B310%2Bipl&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sav-pem.fr%2Findex.php%3Fpage%3Dshop.getfile%26file_id%3D4480%26product_id%3D8185%26option%3Dcom_virtuemart%26Itemid%3D53&ei=r1i_UdDcAoas0QXjmICwCA&usg=AFQjCNEahU5sYCgPdB0C6YxuWD38TCmkZg Not sure where you would get parts for it though!
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Back in the day 25:1 was common as the oil was of much poorer quality than today. Modern oils are far better quality now and 50:1 is recommended by the oil manufacturers and is the correct ratio. 25:1 will cause carbon deposits and smoke excessivly so stick to 50:1 or as the oil manufacturer states. All the tuned saws I run do so on a 50:1 mix and they rev up to 15,000rpm, your 076 will plod at around 9,000 full tilt so will run fine on that ratio.
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I looked this up as I need to do a bit of work on one I have - I hasten to add tree surgery isn't my profession! It was recommended to prune in late summer/Autumn as these trees bleed a lot and that is the best time to cause least damage to them. Please correct if I am talking rowlocks:blushing:
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Remember that when the chain is spinning, this bearing is locked in a stationary position by the clutch opening and locking the clutch drum to the crank shaft - it is only under load when the machine is ideling. A little grease is all that is needed but many survive under harsh conditions. As others have said - look for other contributing factors - is your clutch slipping under load? Play between the bearing crank and drum etc?
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No worries:thumbup:
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Don't know if anyone that frequents this thread has see my thread started last Saturday to help the charity "Age UK" - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/59198-buy-lanyard-help-age-uk.html It is in conjunction with the husband of a lady I work with, he is "Man Knitting" these smart lanyards and selling them to assist the charity - I had hoped for a better response but guess things are tight at the moment - thanks for the few that have mailed Bill and purchased one:thumbup:
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Oh, the above would be 0.325"....1.3mm gauge
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Not a strange question at all, take a low power saw and put a full chisel 1.5mm chain on it and see how it saps the power:thumbdown: Try the Oregon Micro Lite bar with the 95VPX chain - I have measured it to be 15% faster than full kerf chain which falls in line with Oregons claims. It is a good combination for fast light work.
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Everything hinges on your budget, if money is no option then go for a new 50 - 60cc pro saw but if you have a smaller budget then you have to look at what you can get for the money. In life you should really go for the best you can afford otherwise all you will do is to spend out less, be unhappy with the saw, sell it and then go out and spend out what you should have in the first place! What is your budget - all the advice will flow from that piece of info!
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Well I can see what you mean but TBH, I would get rid of the transfer, hone it with a bit of 180 grit, followed with 400 grit - around the bore and not up and down and would fit a decent piston and see what it pulls - for the sake of a £30 piston IMO it is worth a go! Don't try to make the scores disappear but make sure there are no high points. The meteor pistons in an OEM bore are a far better fit than the average Chinese piston in a CHinese Cylinder and you should get 150psi all being well! If you can do the work yourself then give it a go, just make sure the reason for the saw to seize is sorted.
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Good job, puts things in to perspective:thumbup:
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Think I will call you King Alfred from now on, he burnt the cakes as well:001_rolleyes: Just eating a lump now - it has the potential of being good and reckon that 20 minutes less would do it:thumbup:
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I might need it back to get through the crust on your cake:blushing: Only joking - reckon Mk2 may be very good....what saw did you want next:lol: On my bench.....a MS200 quelle surprise....with a dodgy kill switch, normally everyone blames the black wire but the last couple of cases have been the earth strap - easily repaired as in the pictures - resoldered and shrinkwrapped
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I have a narrow kerf bar and chain for the 346 that should work well but Martin wanted to try it on the Stihl RSC full chisel Should make it around 15% faster
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Good man - Hope you guys have ordered a few, we hope to make a bit for Age UK .....here is my serving suggestion:lol:
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How bad are the scores, IMO I would use the OEM cylinder with a new quality piston rather than use Chinese unless it is well and truly FUBARed! Don't get me wrong, they make a nice Cantonese sweet and sour and some rather good king prawn dishes but their P&C kits can be a bit hit and miss - the piston rings are particularly rubbish!
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The scores on the doors: - 357XP - two runs at 10 secs 372XP - 8.3 secs 346 - two runs at 14 secs Wood - Well seasoned elm - it was a tad hard:001_rolleyes: Oh - and the 346XP bar kept clogging up with chip and dust!
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Nah, take it down to Stihl HQ and negotiate their new face to face policy:lol:
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Don't tell him:001_rolleyes: Not sure it would, 20cc is a lot to make up in saw terms!
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Forgot the payment for the 357XP...or part of it..................................................From the cake meister:thumbup:
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Heres what we have been up to today, re tuned Martins ported 357XP, took another one for his father - think they want to race:thumbup: and a 372XP...ported of course and were playing with yet another ported machine - my 346XP...... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYY4rHY7rqU]Martins Ported 357XP Husqvarna - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUiuijnwwa8]Husqvarna Ported 372XP - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXzzki4icts]Husqvarna ported 346XP - YouTube[/ame]
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If you let Bill know what you want on the mail address in my original post, he is happy to get one made up:thumbup:
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Looks good to me - do you reckon those light marks are where the plating has come off or where there is some transfer left? If you can't feel it with your fingertip then it should be OK. The MS660 I just did looked worse and is now making 150PSI on a new piston after running it up and taching!
