spudulike

Well in theory, you should be OK if you can log on to your old account:thumbup:

042 or 048 Rich - part 1117 141 2200 looks a little rare:thumbdown:

Try pulling the fuel line off the carb - it should be wet with fuel and possibly fuel will spurt from it, if this is the case, the issue probably won't be fuel lines or filter! Once you have done this bit, it will be a case of removing the carb and seeing which part of the carb is dry! It will be worth taking the air filter off and making sure that when the choke is engaged on the lever, it is actually closing FULLY.

The dry plug is possibly very low compression, low enough not to pull fuel through the carb - lift the saw up and holding the starter, let go of the saw and time the length of time for it to fall to the full extension of the recoil rope. 1-8 secs isn't good and anything over 10 secs is OK - if you have a compression gauge then test it - anything over 140psi is OK, 150+ is better! How many times did you pull it over with the choke fully closed - it may take a few extra pulls to get the fuel through if it has been standing for many months/years (say 15 pulls), if this doesn't get the plug wet then you need to inspect the fuel filter isn't clagged up, the fuel line is ok (not soft or cracked)and if OK then you will need to take a look inside the carb.....more later!

Well thats good news, always found the Nordics very pleasant and decent folks - looks like they are picking up on the general negative comments about the Stihl policy and doing the opposite - exactly what I would have done:thumbup:

There I rest my case:001_rolleyes:

Came on here after spending time on Arboristsite.com, noticed all the chainsaw tech comments were pretty tame compared to US site and how things have changed:thumbup: Many good fellas on here, a few queer ones and not in that sense:blushing: but it all makes the world go round:thumbup:

I am told that I have an account set up and because of this, the people I use will continue to supply me:confused1: They have so far:thumbup: Cost is around £8 - £10 Part is 1123 160 5400 and is the same part for the MS170/180/230 etc..... Brake Band for Stihl MS170 MS180 MS192T MS200T MS210 MS230 MS250 | Stihl MS170/017 Chainsaw Spares Let me know if you get stuck!

Nah....the inner plastic cover always comes out of that thin plastic band on the top of the side cover - I heat the cover up and bend it back in to shape so the brake handle fits snugly in between the inner plastic cover and the actual main cover - I hate it when the brake handle is flopping about from side to side:thumbdown: The inner parts are just checked, cleaned, inspected and put back. When you refit it, make sure the band isn't rubbing on the clutch sprocket. It is unusual for them to wear through - assuming it has! The offer still stands!

That better not be the one I serviced a while ago:blushing: Snapped brake band likely to be the usual suspect - if you are stuffed - run it in and will fix FOC apart from the part:thumbup: Oh...FOC=Free of Charge:thumbup1:

Stick fuel in it, pull it over with full choke on and if it won't go then pull the plug and see if it is damp - that is a good start. The engine will need "spark, compression and fuel" .....very basically but stick with me. If you have a damp and sparking plug, check the compression. You can usually tell if an engine has good compression by haulling the piston up to near top dead centre and feeling for the resistance on the starter handle when pulled slowly over TDC. If it runs then it is seeing...how it runs, good idle, revs cleanly up to flat out and snaps down to idle again or bad idle, holding on to revs, poor pickup etc, all signs of some fault or another.

Classic

Just going by the 051/076 Service document and cross checked against the engine and tach info generic service PDFs I have. I know these can be a bit out on some saws though not sure why your machines are different from these docs:confused1: I have recently had an 026 only run right on 1/2 turn on the L screw so do whatever works - the important thing is to ensure the saw doesn't run lean at max revs and doesnt puddle fuel on idle then stall or smoke like buggary when you yank open the throttle - these old carbs need a bit of a magic touch:lol:

These older carbs are a bit of an art as the L screw has an effect on the H screw setting ie, if oyu lean off the L screw, it will have the same effect on the H screw. The factory settings are 1 turn on the H screw and 1 1/4 on the L screw so set to these to start. Once set then start the saw and set the idle to slightly fast, start to wind in the L screw and the saw will start to pick up revs or possible start to die, start to turn the L screw back out past the highest revs (it will be something like when you run out of fuel) and around 1/4 turn past this point, the idle starts to hit a point where it gets ever so uneven and sounds....well ...nice:thumbup: best description is a Yamaha RD350YPVS on Allspeeds! Once you have set the L screw, set the H screw to around the 10,000max, if this takes a good size adjustment of the H screw, it can cock up the L screw setting but hopefully it will be very minor - some of the adjustment on these older carbs is just experience and intuition:thumbup:

Forgot to mention - got the ported 357XP ready for a lucky Arbtalkers father and when I fired it up, instead of it being silky smooth as they normally are, there was just a bit too much vibration for my likeing. Checked all the AV nounts, still not too good, noticed that when I grabbed it off the deck by the top handle it clonked a little:confused1: Got it back on the bench and pushed and prodded the engine around on the static rear handle and then noticed someone had replaced one of the lower underside bolts on the top main handle with an over-long one that was protruding through the lower handle and touching the lower crankcase causing bad vibes. Cut the bolt down and refitted - silky smooth AV now, just as you would expect. The moral of this is to be damn careful if you fit an incorrect screw or bolt, it is easy to cause issues if you do - had one hit the flywheel on a 066 once - couldn't understand how it had suddenly locked up when the top cover went on:001_rolleyes:

You will find the 026 a fair bit easier and lots of spares about! Not done too many Stihls apart from MS200Ts. I like doing Huskys down to the design leaving a lot of margin to improve!

Yes, it is a clam type engine and they are not the easiest saws to work on. Personally I would just do a muffler mod as others have suggested and see how much that gives you. You won't be able to lower the squish and actually getting to the cylinder is not a job for the inexperienced...no disrespect to you!

Whats on my bench - oil....lots of oil:001_rolleyes: Got an MS200 in for porting and a full rebuild, got a bit of an oil leak. I disconnected the pick up pipe where it joins the pump and connected a pop of carb tester and gave it a few pumps......oil pissed out of the filler cap. Tried various new O rings and it was still loose so fitted a new cap and tried it again......more oil all over the bench - the tank vent was pissing out oil - knocked it out, blasted it with carb cleaner and compressor, tested it and now it only flows one way (inwards), fitted an O ring as it was missing and all is now good - holds pressure so won't leak again:thumbup:

You could get creative and cut a piece of aluminium to size and then beat it in to shape to attach it with epoxy and screws to the underside of the saw...after degreasing - it would serve a purpose and then give ot a spray over for cosmetics! I believe crankcases are sold in pairs as they are drilled and doweled in the factory so no two are 100% the same - may be wrong in some cases but that is what I have heard!

The muffler mod I did was fairly minor so will tach it to around 500rmp off max revs. The saw has been seized and now has a new piston so it will be tuned pretty fat on the top end to protect the piston and leaned out after a few months running. In answer to your question - this richening up a saw after modifying is in fact rowlocks, I have yet to richen a saw up after any tuning....fact. What happens is that when you port/muffler mod, you INCREASE the flow through the carb and engine. This increase in flow INCREASES the venturi effect through the carb, this has the effect of pulling up more fuel from the metering section of the carb and therefore the carb actually needs leaning down - most saws I port are happily running on 3/4 turn and the plug colour is a dark to mid tan colour. In reality, you tune the modified saw to near maximum revs and listen for fourstroking (more obvious on muffler moded saws) and use this plus the plug colour to find out where the carb setting should be. If you have a set tuning regiem and know where a saw should be then it is pretty easy to dial in the correct revs to ensure correct running. As Eddy says - do a couple of big cuts then do a plug chop - take it out directly after finishing the cut an look at the colour - tan colour is good! Reckon you are running rich if it is smoking! Modified saws can sound a bit rich and fat when cold - it changes after the saws are hot and they rev out fine.

Well there's an image:lol:

And you can stir your tea with it:thumbup:

Seems to:lol: the vacuum and pressure check were perfect, unusual for a 357XP but it is now spot on, just got to put the clutch on and find a bar for it!

Luvly isn't it, thought it had been a while since it had seen the light of day:lol:

Nothing like that, got very drunk and they were great company, three nurses.... we had a great laugh taking the piss out of their compatriots that didn't like us having a good time....the wife was there as well so nothing sordid...honest:blushing: