spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Wife lit it last night - the big question is - will I get the shorts and sandals on this summer because at the moment, the weather is ccoooollllddddd Brrrrrr and wet:thumbdown:
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Just looked at the line up...thought Uriah Heep & UFO would be pensioners by now - sort of thing I was listening to back in the 70s:thumbup: What happened to "The Monsters of Rock Festival" or am I just showing my age:blushing:
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Just use old engine oil:blushing: Just don't send the saw in to me to fix it if you do:001_rolleyes:
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The insert uses a larger tap size so yes, if the helicoil fails, an insert is a good next stage of repair just make sure the old helicoil is removed before re tapping!
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I use a heated ultrasonic cleaner with specific carb cleaner, an hour in that generally cleans carbs pretty thoroughly!
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Do are you saying that you have removed the H&L screws and sprayed carb cleaner down them? If so you should get a stream from the holes just under the throttle valve spraying in to the L screw and a jet out of the brass check valve just behind the choke spraying in to the H screw hole!
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Make sure you clean any aluminum transfer off the cylinder before fitting a new piston otherwise it will last seconds!
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They are breathing holes and if leaking fuel, will have a leaking diaphragm or pumping membrane underneath!
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Ah - the magic ebay shed that takes in a working chainsaw and spits it out seized:001_rolleyes: I had sort of thought the saw may have gone in the shed running but it looks like it has been seized badly! The next step on the carb investigation would have been to see if you haev fuel in the pumping section - proving the impulse line and pumping membrane are working and then check the metering/diaphragm section to ensure the needle and metering arm are working correctly. It looks like you should look at low compression as being your issue - lots of pics on "Whats on my bench" of seized pistons. The cylinder may well be able to be cleaned and a new piston fitted. Make sure you use a Meteor or Stihl one and ensure the reason for seizure is found and repaired.
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Well in theory, you should be OK if you can log on to your old account:thumbup:
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042 or 048 Rich - part 1117 141 2200 looks a little rare:thumbdown:
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Try pulling the fuel line off the carb - it should be wet with fuel and possibly fuel will spurt from it, if this is the case, the issue probably won't be fuel lines or filter! Once you have done this bit, it will be a case of removing the carb and seeing which part of the carb is dry! It will be worth taking the air filter off and making sure that when the choke is engaged on the lever, it is actually closing FULLY.
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The dry plug is possibly very low compression, low enough not to pull fuel through the carb - lift the saw up and holding the starter, let go of the saw and time the length of time for it to fall to the full extension of the recoil rope. 1-8 secs isn't good and anything over 10 secs is OK - if you have a compression gauge then test it - anything over 140psi is OK, 150+ is better! How many times did you pull it over with the choke fully closed - it may take a few extra pulls to get the fuel through if it has been standing for many months/years (say 15 pulls), if this doesn't get the plug wet then you need to inspect the fuel filter isn't clagged up, the fuel line is ok (not soft or cracked)and if OK then you will need to take a look inside the carb.....more later!
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Well thats good news, always found the Nordics very pleasant and decent folks - looks like they are picking up on the general negative comments about the Stihl policy and doing the opposite - exactly what I would have done:thumbup:
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There I rest my case:001_rolleyes:
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Came on here after spending time on Arboristsite.com, noticed all the chainsaw tech comments were pretty tame compared to US site and how things have changed:thumbup: Many good fellas on here, a few queer ones and not in that sense:blushing: but it all makes the world go round:thumbup:
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I am told that I have an account set up and because of this, the people I use will continue to supply me:confused1: They have so far:thumbup: Cost is around £8 - £10 Part is 1123 160 5400 and is the same part for the MS170/180/230 etc..... Brake Band for Stihl MS170 MS180 MS192T MS200T MS210 MS230 MS250 | Stihl MS170/017 Chainsaw Spares Let me know if you get stuck!
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Nah....the inner plastic cover always comes out of that thin plastic band on the top of the side cover - I heat the cover up and bend it back in to shape so the brake handle fits snugly in between the inner plastic cover and the actual main cover - I hate it when the brake handle is flopping about from side to side:thumbdown: The inner parts are just checked, cleaned, inspected and put back. When you refit it, make sure the band isn't rubbing on the clutch sprocket. It is unusual for them to wear through - assuming it has! The offer still stands!
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That better not be the one I serviced a while ago:blushing: Snapped brake band likely to be the usual suspect - if you are stuffed - run it in and will fix FOC apart from the part:thumbup: Oh...FOC=Free of Charge:thumbup1:
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Stick fuel in it, pull it over with full choke on and if it won't go then pull the plug and see if it is damp - that is a good start. The engine will need "spark, compression and fuel" .....very basically but stick with me. If you have a damp and sparking plug, check the compression. You can usually tell if an engine has good compression by haulling the piston up to near top dead centre and feeling for the resistance on the starter handle when pulled slowly over TDC. If it runs then it is seeing...how it runs, good idle, revs cleanly up to flat out and snaps down to idle again or bad idle, holding on to revs, poor pickup etc, all signs of some fault or another.
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Classic
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Just going by the 051/076 Service document and cross checked against the engine and tach info generic service PDFs I have. I know these can be a bit out on some saws though not sure why your machines are different from these docs:confused1: I have recently had an 026 only run right on 1/2 turn on the L screw so do whatever works - the important thing is to ensure the saw doesn't run lean at max revs and doesnt puddle fuel on idle then stall or smoke like buggary when you yank open the throttle - these old carbs need a bit of a magic touch:lol:
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These older carbs are a bit of an art as the L screw has an effect on the H screw setting ie, if oyu lean off the L screw, it will have the same effect on the H screw. The factory settings are 1 turn on the H screw and 1 1/4 on the L screw so set to these to start. Once set then start the saw and set the idle to slightly fast, start to wind in the L screw and the saw will start to pick up revs or possible start to die, start to turn the L screw back out past the highest revs (it will be something like when you run out of fuel) and around 1/4 turn past this point, the idle starts to hit a point where it gets ever so uneven and sounds....well ...nice:thumbup: best description is a Yamaha RD350YPVS on Allspeeds! Once you have set the L screw, set the H screw to around the 10,000max, if this takes a good size adjustment of the H screw, it can cock up the L screw setting but hopefully it will be very minor - some of the adjustment on these older carbs is just experience and intuition:thumbup:
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Forgot to mention - got the ported 357XP ready for a lucky Arbtalkers father and when I fired it up, instead of it being silky smooth as they normally are, there was just a bit too much vibration for my likeing. Checked all the AV nounts, still not too good, noticed that when I grabbed it off the deck by the top handle it clonked a little:confused1: Got it back on the bench and pushed and prodded the engine around on the static rear handle and then noticed someone had replaced one of the lower underside bolts on the top main handle with an over-long one that was protruding through the lower handle and touching the lower crankcase causing bad vibes. Cut the bolt down and refitted - silky smooth AV now, just as you would expect. The moral of this is to be damn careful if you fit an incorrect screw or bolt, it is easy to cause issues if you do - had one hit the flywheel on a 066 once - couldn't understand how it had suddenly locked up when the top cover went on:001_rolleyes:
