spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Do you want that aerosol ported, should be able to get a 25% kill rate improvement out of it:lol: Just given me an idea for the Hornets nest I have in my dormer roof:thumbup:
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Possible compression issue but likely to be the valve clearences or auto decomp, these engines are not the easiest to work on and are a mare if they play up - good luck with it.........I would never have anything other than two stroke small engine saws, trimmers, strimmers etc:lol:
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You are forgetting the residual value of the saw on resale -Stihl maintain their value as do Husqvarna although probably not quite as well whilst the rest of the mentioned saws plummet. Buy a quality brand, you may be able to get something like a 345/350 Husqvarna for around £150, they are both deent and powerful machines!
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Been working on a 254XPG today, dirty but working state, in for a refurb and porting. I have widened the exhaust port by a fair bit, the inlet less so, heavily modded the uppers and just reprofiled the lowers, don't want to hog them out too much otherwise I will lose transfer velocity adn with it a fair bit of torque. Rumour has it that the 254XP out performed the 266XP when Husqvarna designed it so they sleeved the air filter down to restrict it a little....so I reamed it out a little:thumbup: Nice job, looking forward to trying it:thumbup:
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Funny you should say that Andy, got one one the bench that I am doing at the moment - first one and is looking...interesting:thumbup:
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Technically a ton is a measurement of weight and M3 is a measurement of volume/size and as such, the volume is determined by the density of the material. What I am trying to say is a ton of unseasoned Oak will be much smaller in size/volume that a ton of seasoned poplar!
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Andy Collins did quite a review on his quest for the best hedge trimmer and it ended up with Echo, from this I got one and am happy with it - very good AV and cut. I haven't used the latest Stihl one but it may be worth your while looking at Andys thread on this site!
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Yup, saws smell sweet when they leave my workshop - which is more than they do when they come in:001_rolleyes:
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Agree on that one, classic symptoms, thing to do is to only fill the tank half full, start the saw and then tip it on its side and loosen up the fuel cap and see if that improves matters, if it does then it is the tank vent. Almost all the carbs I have are in serviceable condition and fixable, many just need a damn good clean so even if it isn't the tank vent, it isn't the end of the world!
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Only reason I posted it was to make Rich feel better about himself:lol: Warm glow - I guess, at least it isn't destined for the landfill now:thumbup:
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Do you have £550 for a new saw? Is there anything wrong with the 254XP?
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Got the MS460 back together, passsed the Vac and pressure checks, ran it up and all good, first compression reading was 180PSI so pretty happy with that. Also had a hedge trimmer in from a local, not the usual sort of thing but had to strip the gearbox and all is OK now, not going to make me rich but thats life:001_rolleyes:
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Didn't know you had run one Rich, thought you may have chosen that Ryobi with the dodgy oiler:confused1:
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Yes - sounds like clutch springs, binding betwen the clutch and drum or needle bearing!
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The 066 has around 22.5 degrees of advance at idle which is a bit hairy on a large saw - the later ones have variable ignition timing in the coil, he earlier 064 has none and they really do kick.
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Think some of us are missing this point:001_rolleyes:
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OK, basically when the saw is idling, the clutch should be spinning around inside the clutch drum with no contact between the clutch shoes and the clutch drum. You usually get a little friction between the crankshaft and the drum and clutch but this is so small it wont effect the idle. If the saw is cutting out when the chain brake is applied, the application of the chain brake is increasing the contact friction between the previously mentioned parts to the point that it is dragging down the revs at idle to the point the saw stalls. It may be the bearing is shagged, twine around the crank shaft end and washers is a common one (probably not in your case as it has been cleaned), a busted clutch spring can do it as can just wear and tear on these parts. The MS261 does have well documented issues in this area:thumbdown:
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Just checked the standard piston, with a circlip missing and the gudgeon pin pushed out till it is damn close to the cylinder, the other end of the pin is unsupported by the other side of the piston I am pretty sure it is a circlip problem - either left off, sprung out, fell out etc the pin then worked itself out of one side of the piston putting a load of pressure on the other side which fractured and the flailing rod smashed the cylinder. The manufacturers offer sounds pretty good to me.
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Sorry for more questions, just had a closer look at the photos, the gudgeon pin lug on one half of the piston looks good, the other is shattered, the remainder of the piston lug and the gudgeon pin on the top of the crankcase looks like the pin has come out of the hole it should sit in - it looks like either the circlip has come out or been left out and the pin has started to ride out and eventually it has come out far enough to come out of one of its locating holes and with that, the engine has detonated in a big way as the piston gudgeon pin is only supported by half of the piston. Make any sense - you said the circlips were in place but the picture shows otherwise:confused1:
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What a bummer, the tear under the inlet sounds like the bevelling on the inlet port was poor and the piston skirt got snagged and had the effect of breaking the small end off the rod or debris got caught in it. I have never heard of a 066 or 660 shear a small end - bend the crank on MS650s yes, but not the rod. Nothing else really makes sense - some of these aftermarket pots have pretty loose pistons - the rings won't come in to contact with the lower part of the inlet port so if the piston skirt is unfinished and sharp and the port is badly bevelled..... The other possibility is that the lower piston shattered and caused the damage! Good luck with your claim!
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Not being clever but that is why I always try to salvage the original cylinder and fit a decent quality piston, the piston isn't straight Aluminium but should contain silicon to reduce thermal expansion - something important in piston design! Going back to your damage - make sure the remains of the piston have the gudgeon pin circlip in place both ends before you send it back - I think that one half of the piston shattered but it is also possible the circlip came out and the gudgeon pin caught on the transfer snapping the rod but less likely. Hope you get something back toward a new saw:thumbup:
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Proxxon kit is pretty good, transfers are ground with an abrasive disk, not gone the angled head route ....yet
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That will be free running revs - once you hit the metal, that will drop right off unless on full tilt:thumbup: Been pretty good for what I need out of it and damn good value IMO!
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It looks as though one side of the piston has fractured causing the issue - was this an OEM part or aftermarket? not seen an original part implode like that before - not a nice one at all:thumbdown: Think even I would throw in the towel on that one:lol:
