spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I have been in Gods Garden today, doing battle with the satanic nettles growing in it, the weapon of choice wasn't a wooden crucifix but a ported Komatsu Zenoah strimmer that gave a good show for two hours and drove back the weeds of darkness!! OK - it was the help the Church, clean up the Churchyard day and judging by the save the planet bags, kneeler pads and B&Q secateurs, it was a good thing I was on hand to help:thumbup: I hope that my effort will give me a ticket to access to the pearly gates but probably not:001_rolleyes:
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The bearings or pin seat would need to have terminal play in them to drop the compression by 20psi, I have seen it a few times. The squish band is the actual band around the outer part of the combustion chamber, the nearest point to the piston and controls how the combustion impacts the piston crown, it has changed over the years with different combustion chamber shapes and has effect on heat control, combustion and detonation.
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The squish band is a machined band around the outside of the cylinder and is there to control combustion and reduce detonation. Rover is correct with his minimum dimension. Dan is correct with his measurement method. If a bearing has failed or the gudgeon pin has worn the seat down, it will effect compression and have seen faulty crank bearings and worn piston gudgeon pin holes reduce compression. At 110psi I would suspect the gauge isn't reading correctly unless the piston/bore are in really bad shape - is the plating ok and is the piston to bore a good fit? Worth checking that the piston crown hasnt been damaged by using a solid metal piston stop.
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We used it in manufacturing for jigs, fixtures and the like - you can still get it here - Tufnol Sheet - Direct Plastics Limited
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The top engine mount bolt had snapped and the lower one had the thread gone - the earth mounts on one bolt so the stop switch had stopped working which led me to find the faults. I reckon the bolt had snapped and this led to the lower one stripping - I helicoiled them and fitted conventional bolts - most of the bolts on these new saws appear to be self tap screw threads for cheapness!
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The simplest improvement is to drill the exhaust. A this gives a good increase on power. The coil is limited which makes you think it is running really rich!
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Yes of course it is, I'm back in MS200 mode again:001_rolleyes: If you take the original clip off and take the rear AV mount off, you can fit a nail in to the through hole and it will be held in place by the AV mount - this then allows you to use strapping or do what I did with it - nice and easy...also:thumbup:
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TBH, the usual culprits are too much sideways roll on the chain in the bar rails leading to one rail being shorter than the other. One other interesting effect is that you can sometimes be revving the knackers of your saw and not cutting at all then a quick shift in stance and it rips through - had that before:lol:
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Nice job, the sort of inventive repair I tend to get involved in doing - saved a new £100 carb:thumbup:
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A new saw will gain compression once the piston and rings have bedded in to the cylinder through friction and wear, that will take a few tanks to happen. Many saw manufacturers will leave the low screw a bit lean to meet emission laws, bogging in the mid range is a classic sign of this and if you turn the L screw anticlockwise by 1/4 turn it may help but avoid just twiddling the screws with no finesse - turn the H screw in to far and you can kiss your piston goodbye - see how the L screw goes, if the saw is struggling to hit the high revs when revved freestanding, if it smokes a bit then it may be down to the H screw settings but also, these modern saws can have limited coils giving a similar effect - the MS201 and MS150 are two that sound flat at the top end due to this so beware - a tach is the best way to tune these saws IMO as it will go loopy when the rev limiter is hit!
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You can get similar results with a compressor airline and a can of WD40 followed by carb cleaner - just loosen the crap off with WD40, give it a blast of air, do the same with carb cleaner and the jobs a goodun:thumbup:
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There is similar on the congestion charge for Inner London as well, got caught with that one - they do register your car for it but charge a handling fee for the pleasure - all looks very genuine as well! Google should clamp down on their advertising and Government should outlaw it as they offer little more than another portal to pay a standard charge!
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This was my fix, it included a nail and a bit of brazed fabricated heater mounting bracket:thumbup:
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That self tapper.....is that screwed straight through the ceiling of the fuel tank:confused1:
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I can't be sure, one machine looked low hours, the other higher but not abused by any means and believe me - I have seen the difference. Just take the side cover off every month or so, take the bar and chain off and see how much wobble there is on the clutch. Just put a finger on each side of the drum and push one side and then the other - new it will be tight with little movement, once it looks like one of those plates on the wobbly sticks they used to have on The Generation Game it is well shot. Pop the circlip and grease it - it will help! Don't want to scaremonger but the needleless bearing was the worst I had ever seen - amazed no one had noticed:001_rolleyes:
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It is usually a sign that the rails on the bar have splayed open and may have even worn one on one side. Take the bar off, get it in a vice and put a straight edge across the rails and see how square they are, also check how tight the chainn is being held in the rails - there should not be to much side to side movement of the chain in the bar! If the bar is a bit buggered, it is common for the cutters on one side of the chain to wear more than the other.
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I can't see it would be illegal in common law or civil for that matter - he probably meant it goes against whatever legislation the H&S have in place for grinding wheels and disks - don't think The Sweeny would have been quite so good if they had nicked the blagger for using an angle grinder with the wrong disk type. Your nicked slag....wrong disk:lol:
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Blimey Rich, good thing I am sitting down:lol:
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Had two MS261s in recently, both had real bad clutch needle bearings to the extent both oiler arms had been worn off by the wobbly clutch drum:thumbdown: One had a plastic needle cage with NO needle rollers in it and the other was metal caged but had worn the clutch drum badly! I have never seen this much wear in this area before - the saws looked reasonably well looked after as well! I believe it is a common fault - not sure if it was fixed by Stihl or not! Can't judge on the 550 yet, not had one in!
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I usually use a dremmel with a diamond burr, I get a very sharp edge but the grinder would correct mauled edges better - not used one, don't get enough in to buy one!
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Apart from what others have said - if it has an automatic decomp then these often play up and also make sure the throttle linkage isn't sticking somewhere - simplest thing to do is to fire it up with the top cover off and push the carb throttle arm to shut the throttle to see if it lowers the revs. Cutting the limiters off is only for the experienced - if the idle screw is adjusted correctly and the saw still races, it sounds like an air leak - typically the impulse hose and the impulse connector on the inlet manifold give issues. Other thing worth a look at is to make sure the manifold clamp is still clamped correctly.
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Neigh, that canter be true, I am a little horse after man flue:lol:
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And come home with your latest carnage in the boot of my car
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Echo here - good build, low vibes, the foursroke Stihls are.............interesting to maintain and they will need maintaining. Two stroke is such a simple technology - why buy a fourstroke - too much to go wrong!
