spudulike

Do you mean like you can chip a cars EPU

It comes from years of practice - ask the wife:lol:

Nothing like nice chips Jon:thumbup:

It should result in more power but make sure you richen the carb up and then adjust so the fourstroking disappears when hard in the cut.

I got fed up with seeing the trail of carnage:001_rolleyes: - the last one I did was out of goodwill....and the fact some scum had done his place over. I don't like seeing a grown man wield a mallet on a saw like that - unfortunately the crankcase splitters were made days after Matty needed them:lol: I think the clutch side of the crankcase Matty is talking about is OK on my scrapper, the other side is buggered!

I am hoping Barrie will get that fed up with me, he may send me one:blushing:

There endeth the first lesson on narrow kerf chain and cut speed:thumbup:

You can now call yourself a man:thumbup:

My birthday is coming up in four months Barrie - are you going to surprise me with something special for the workshop....now what do I need:confused1: I didn't mean to snap......honest - those adjusters get right up my nose - silly things - the tools are stupidly expensive as well -£10

Aw...piss off Barrie:001_tt2: 1) I'm too tight 2) I dont like home owner saws 3) They should have fitted slotted adjusters All the above or choose the most accurate:blushing: Can we get you back on about Aspen or clean benches:lol:

It depends what thread lock you use, use the one that allows dismantling! just do them up tight!

If the saw has a fast idle and is holding on to revs when the throttle is closed, it may be an air leak. The carb can be adjusted with a splined adjuster but personally I take the screws out and slot them carefully as you suggest. You can get them out with the plastic part of a crimp connector:thumbup:

Sounds like an air leak, especially on an older saw. Check the inlet manifold, impulse if separate, cylinder bolts, carb bolts and crank seals.

There is month real info available, larger saws tend to make a little less than smaller ones, I personally fit a new piston to restore compression as the bore wears very little and the piston generally wears more! 150psi is OK, 170psi is better, under 145 and you probably have issues!

Probably not but if you mix it with carbon and sulphur - don't smoke near it:lol:

The gunpowder thing and tanning leather are all to do with the nitrate in the pee. In medieval times, they used to scrape the white potassium nitrate from ye olde shyte heap to make gunpowder with and it is the same nitrate that is used by tanners to soften leather!

Well, if you have a handshake from me, you know about it:thumbup:

Never had to buy a new one but you usually place the outside part in the outer rim and then just wind it round pushing it in place holding it on two opposite sides - that is how I fit them also!

On par with the 550 but it won't out pace the 560 - you need a ported 357 to do that......as we have proved:thumbup:

Hi Ed - you and your saws:001_rolleyes: could be a few things - if the compression is a tad low, it can cause starting issues when hot -you can get saws having reasonable power not having decent compression when hot. Other than that - you could try swapping the carb out and trying that! I know you have spares. When you do start the saw on fast idle- does it rev pretty fast on this setting or a bit slow - if slow, lean down the L screw 1/4 turn, adjust the idle to suit and see how that goes -it may be wear in the throttle linkages also giving poor fast idle - the other thing to do is hold it on full throttle and pull the starter with your left hand - if it doesn't start like that than you have other issues. I have had pin holes in the carb pumping diaphragm give exactly this issue and the flaps can get worn/holed as we know! Air leak - possible but would generally give idle/fast speed and holding revs issues! You may have a blocked tank vent - try cleaning it or swapping it out - the tank may get a slight vacuum in it drawing the fuel back out of the carb. It may just be the carb l screw set too lean- one turn is standard setting! Not sure it can be much else!

It will be around 13600 RPM as that is what the blue coil is limited to (I think that is what you have) but you will never hold that in the cut so it will not effect cut speed. The unlimited coil makes tach tuning easier but doesn't make the saw faster or more powerful!

You will like it once done - that is certain:thumbup:

Sorry Josh, missed your post - yup, that it is, hope it meets your approval:thumbup: It spools up pretty quick now and has a decent amount of speed in the cut and that was with a 17" bar in hard Elm!

I have had this with saws with heated handles - no issue but it may be a seize or faulty crank bearings - more common with stone cutters!