spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Oregon Prolite or Sugihara for heavy use or a Microlite Pro for light work and greater speed! Others will have their opinions:001_rolleyes::lol:
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No idea - just put it on there to run it up - I dont think it would stop it even if you put full weight on it:lol: 20" before anyone asks!
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Not done one before, if you are new to porting, watch the piston skirt size and port accordingly plus watch the ring ends - easy to get carried away or make non reversible errors.
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They both are - especially when you forget to connect the fuel line to the 3120XP and drop start it 20 times:001_rolleyes: burke:lol: Abbey say your seal will be with me today:001_rolleyes: hope it will hit tomorrow:lol:
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Here we go, a bit of saw porn for Eddie:001_rolleyes: I did tach the saw today - then found the recoil had jammed and a quick inspection showed the flywheel had come loose and was rubbing on the starter pulley:001_rolleyes: I held off the auto vane rev limiter - boy that sounds flash for a flappy thing that closes the choke if it goes a bit fast:lol: Anyway - held it off and adjusted the carb for 7500rpm and then set the autovane to kick in around the same - don't think I am too far off the mark in doing this.......am I Eddie????? First one I have done....ever! Last pic is a comparison to the 3120XP - now singing again:thumbup: Pics: -
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13,000rpm on that one - that is maximum so aim for circa 12500 on the chosen bar length - the L screw is left a bit lean as the carb can blow fuel back on to the filter if too rich.
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Soft rubber sheet with two holes in it to accept the bolts - similar to you but better!
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That's the one, held it open with my thumb, tached it at 7000rpm before it stalled and then the recoil stopped recoiling - bloody old saws! They are really a labour of love for the owner - there is just so much labour intensive stuff that can go wrong and isn't easy to fix! Everything takes sooooo long to repair:sneaky2: The 3120XP was sweet - a little bugger to get going but now all is good - will try it again cold but probably needs a few hours on it to settle the piston!
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I am setting it to around 7000, it has a limiter that works off the air from the flywheel. weird thing but it works! Pics to follow
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TBH, I have always used Stihl HP at 45:1 - my own choice and never had any issues but it has to be said, I don't do pro cutting - most is hauling firewood out of local ditches:thumbup: Any decent Stihl/Husqvarna etc oil will be fine, just make sure the mix is fresh and mixed right!
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Well the 3120XP is up and running, it has been a bugger, having plugged the leaking hole in the crank for oiling the needle bearing - it has a hole running through to the crankcase with a one way valve that had gone...I found the seal on the clutch side was shot. I replaced this seal and then found it was perfect on pressure but leaking on vacuum...at around 11.00pm last night:001_rolleyes: Grrrrrr Managed to get the flywheel off and verify the other seal was leaking - got it replaced today and then had to wind in the carb idle screw three turns where the owner had been compensating for the air leaks - it had a slight seize so fitted a new piston and all seems good - opened up the slots in the muffler and it roars now:thumbup: Stihl Contra now fitted with a new carb kit - will tach tomorrow:thumbup:
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Well I guess if the customer had been visibly disabled or showing signs that he was physically infirm, the OP wouldn't have posted this. In answer of whom to go after....both of them having worked every week since 1982 and paying half my wages over as deductions and tax!!!!
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I didn't see your post but spoke to Barrie a while ago and he filled me in - hope it is something that you can fight and come out the other side! Not good feeling like crap
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Wondered where you had got to Rich, glad you are busy:thumbup:
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No worries, a pleasure to help and hope you get the bearing sorted soon:thumbup:
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If the chain is spinning or creeping at an idle of circa 3000rpm then something is wrong, if the springs have been changed then it could be a bad needle bearing, crud in the clutch or twine wrapped round the clutch drum. What does the saw do when you use the chain brake - does it stall?
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When I ported Stubbys 346XP, I found out the fuel tank breather had been blocked off from the day it was new - Andy said the local dealer had problems with his and another sold at the same time and couldn't find the reason why:001_rolleyes: It does happen - issues with new equipment, like I said, any decent tech will investigate the reason for the initial failure so it doesn't happen again. Pretty sure none of the machines I have done have failed after I have sorted them!
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Interesting MS200T, broken flywheel fin, buggered starter pulley -traced it back to a big dent to the front of the saw - this pushed the coil in and belted the flywheel, it busted off a fin that took out the pulley - call me Sherlock:lol: I ported the saw and fixed the dodgy accelerator pump in the carb plus a multitude of other smaller issues including a dodgy clutch drum, a damaged internal cover etc etc
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Started porting a 357XP, put the timing wheel on it and got some surprising figures - never pulled the figures from one of these saws before - Exhaust port Duration - 148* Transfer Duration - 122* Inlet duration - 144* Blowdown - 13* Interesting figures, I am guessing Husqvarna developed this saw to work on high crankcase pressure and have a very short blowdown period - there is a lot that can be done to the ports as the piston is "Non windowed" so the ports can be widened a lot:thumbup:
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And if left will end up with a piston crown that looks like the surface of the moon:thumbdown: Only had it in on one saw and that was the 066 when I was messing around with ignition timing - the only time you are likely to get pre ignition or detonation. The 066 just didn't rev right and sounded like it was about to blow so switched it off quickly!
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The carb was the obvious one but if no joy, you will need to remove and test the fuel line and impulse line - if either of these are holed, it will make the saw a pig to start - if you don't have a vacuum gauge - block one end with a suitable wood nail and suck on the other or immerse in water and blow:blushing: If it isn't that - perhaps the inlet manifold has cracked! 4 hours ......
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Got a 3120XP on the bench, big airleak traced back to air leaking from the small hole under the clutch drum needle bearing:confused1: Was baffled by this until I read that the saw has an oil gallery running down the centre of the crankshaft so the fuel air mix lubes the bearing. It has a built in one way valve that has obviously failed. There is no way this can be replaced and it had caused a little damage to the piston via a very mild seize. I have plugged the hole as fitting a new crankshaft would have been damn expensive and the seal appears unavailable to order. I now have a new set of seals on order (same as the 395XP) so should be up and running again with a new piston as well:thumbup:
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All in a days work:thumbup:
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On a seized saw, any decent tech will check for air leaks when rebuilding the saw and also retune the carb for correct running!
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I use and airline and GT85/carb cleaner. The jetwash method may get it clean but I have seen alloy corrosion and rusting of the clutch/needle bearing sometimes happening as quick as 24 hrs. If you do get water on a saw, it is important to get it hot very soon after and spray the clutch etc with a lubricant - the recoil spring also suffers badly to water!
