spudulike

I believe it is Stihl HP Super at 50:1

Had Burrells 357Xp in today, one of the first I ported. He said that the saw had a changeable idle and traced it back to fine sawdust in the carb gauze strainer. Took the oportunity to measure the compression - 200psi - pretty good considering it just had the base gasket removed and a new piston - it has been run hard for 2-3 years and looks it but the pressure/Vac tests were also perfect.....all good:thumbup:

Sometimes you can get by with just three screws and have no leakage. Sometimes you can find a slightly oversize screw and then use it to make a new thread in the soft alloy carb housing - done this before with some success!

The usual thing to look for is spark, compression and fuel. You have a spark, is the plug getting wet after pulling the saw over with the choke on? Is the fast idle part of the carb working on cold start? Check the fuel lines, tank breather etc. You may have flooded the engine - try taking the plug out, turn the igition off and pull it over fast with the saw upside down to get rid of puddled fuel.

TBH, the 026 is pretty easy - clockwise off, decent socked and bar wrench, use rope or the stihl stop, place it on the ground, hold the rear handle with your foot, front handle with your left hand and lift the wrench with your right - you can get A LOT of force this way and it will shift:thumbup:

The cylinder looks like it may be salvageable with only that big chunk out of the sxhaust side of the piston that would worry me in regards to the damage it may have done to the cylinder!

All that is drilled is a retainer that allows you to take the limit adjuster off the H screw giving more adjustment! The coils on these saws seems to be limited to around 12,500, seems a bit low to me. The MS200 still takes some beating when it is set up right!

As the title says, I need a Stihl coil part No 1122 400 1314 that I am porting. I have an older part that will work but it doesn't have the built in ignition retardation for easy start and the variable ignition curve that the later coil will have. All MS660/MS460 and 046 should have this coil so if anyone is breaking one, please let me know!

Mmmm, that was made by some lunatic with half a 262 and half a 268....

Thats nice Jon, are we going to run it on premium scrumpy:lol:

No problem, glad you approve, I don't think you ever get tired of using a ported 346, they are lush as the yout of today would say:thumbup:

It generally comes down to replacing the piston when the compression is poor!

You have two 024 cranks - 1121 030 0400 and 1121 030 0405, I believe the earlier one has a shorter stroke and the later is also used on the 026 but do your homework and save wasting money. There also apear to be four incarnations of cylinder! Burrell on here, turned down the later 024 cylinder to fit the earlier crank - don't think it was ever "right" though.

Think you cleared their stock, got the Stihl ones myself - good for hauling timber out of ditches for my firewood - the tongs get a real good grip on the wood!

Benedmonds on here had a buggered 084 some time ago, not sure if he ever got rid of it! He is based in North Midlands

Sounds about right to me, the crank needs the same stroke otherwise the piston will either clout the top of the cylinder or not make compression!

Did someone wake me up:001_rolleyes: The 026 first - they do suffer from wear on the piston skirt and they start knocking on idle and can eventually get this free porting around the piston skirt. Personally I would do a compression check and see how it sounds running and go from there - the carbs can be.....interesting to set up:001_rolleyes:, I have had this phenomena on an 024 which would saturate the air filter in fuel, choking the engine - I overcame it by leaning down the L screw to around 3/4 turn rather than the 1 turn out. I found this by running the saw up and removing the air filter and doing a couple of test cuts - the saw went from bogging to having good full power. The idle may just be the carb setting - set the L screw to 3/4 - 1 turn out and see if turning in the idle a little helps. If you can't do a compression check - try removing the muffler and look at the piston through the exhaust port, the piston should look clean and wet silver grey - deep vertical scoring and it is shot. The 024 - it sounds like you have enough fuel for idle but not for full power - check the fuel line is OK - plug one end and suck on the other - small holes will do this. The impulse line (small rubber hose from the airbox to the back of the cylinder base) may be split, check the fuel filter and also the internal gauze strainer in the pumping section of the carb - a common fault on most saws! I am assuming that the carb settings on the 024 are around 1 turn out on the H & L screw! The carb may need a good deep clean but try this for now!

Had a quick look and can't find a Meteor one - the Golf ones are reasonable ones also but use the OEM circlips if you fit one. Personally, if you have 150psi + leave it as it is:thumbup:

If the cylinder plating is OK, just fit a new Meteor piston, they are of good quality and have done many saws with them without issue. It will restore the power, compression and stop any piston slap that these 026/024s can have after many hours use! If the plating on the cylinder bore is worn then it just depends on what sort of money you want to spend!

Sounds like the bar sprocket has been pinched at sometime - had a similar one once on an 024 - swapped it out in the end! Just under a tank of oil per fuel fuel tank is normal - it the sprocket tip flings a line of oil at speed free running, all is as it should be!

Nah - like a big ole elephant:lol: Had a similar one to yours I purchased- expired during carving, mostly happens when newbies turn the retaining screw without locating the cover properly:thumbdown:

Been there before havent we Barrie - would have been my first call as well!

The muffler mod is basically a big hole in the flat plate that sticks out of the clutch cover. I fo a fair bit more than that bit no need to open the two muffler halves up. Make sure you bevel those port edges as the rings will need it!

The rings are visible through the inlet port - if you widen the port by more than around 1mm, the ring ends will be too close to the port opening or will actually pop out in to the port. Either way, it is not a good idea to have ring ends that close to an open port - 2mm is absolute minimum to avoid issues - believe me - I have done the work and know the build. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing with this type of work - I don't profess to know it all but do know the limits to work within and some saws in detail! If the owner had opened the inlet port - he would now be looking at an ash tray:thumbdown: Not having a pop but giving a free lesson and experience!

Sorry Eddy, the ring ends run down either side of the top of the inlet port, if you widen them, they will snag and take out the rings - there isnt much you can do here, possibly a little shapeing but not worth it IMO. You can take around 1-2mm off both sides of the exhaust port but measure the skirt to get the correct width leaving 2mm of skirt down both sides of the port. Most of the gains will be from the piston and exhaust plus dropping the base gasket!