spudulike

One of he US guys measured an 026 Stihl before and after porting/muffler mod and measured a drop in temperature. If you want good flow but not a real loud saw, try opening up the outlet hole by 2-3 times - the shroud can be lengthened by brazing/welding in an extra length of shield. If the sound is allowed to bounce of an internal surface before exiting, it will quieten the saw down, forward facing outlets can get pretty noisy! It should give you extra cutting speed just check the colour of the plug and max revs. 4 years isn't too bad for after market - milling is pretty harsh and at least it didn't go pop big time - am assuming it didn't:blushing:

The limit caps are there to stop the uninitiated fiddling with the settings and seizing their engines! You can either pull the limit caps and adjust then replace or simply leave them off - no damage should occur unless some misguided fella has a fiddle! The 880 on this thread was one I did and it was the owners decision to go aftermarket - TBH, the Golf pistons are not too bad but the Meteor ones are much better! You probably know, you cant get Meteor pistons or aftermarket cylinders for these machines. From memory, I believe the saw should make 12,000 revs maximum free standing but double check!

Had a 560XP in with a buggered spark plug hole. The plug is M10 x 1.0 so didn't have the kit to do it - I am well covered on the M14 ones so agreed to do it for the price of the tools plus circa £20 to cover a little of my time - that way I have the kit for future! I got the V-coil kit, good quality and made in Germany, the helicoil lengths are measured in "diameters" - 1d = 10mm, 1.5d = 15mm - the length I needed was 12.5mm so took a 1.5d insert and lopped off a couple of coils and ground the top flat - not really necessary but get a little anal on attention to detail. The tap is the type that has a taper guide on the end of it leading in to a reamer and then the final tap to take the insert. Don't get confused with the cheap crap ones - I need to use decent grade taps to get strength out of the finished item. I also use a Loctite high grade thread lock when putting these in, many don't but I like them to go in once and never come out and the cost/time is negligible. The pics are of the tap, two insert lengths, damaged plug hole, tapping in progress, tapped hole and then repaired hole. You wouldnt know the insert had been fitted and will be damn strong in use. I finally get a bit of heat with a plumbers lamp on the cylinder to make the Loctite go off.

Yes but how would the Swedish pronounce HusQvarna:lol:

Glad to hear it:thumbup:

Generally on Pro saws,the crank case splits vertically in half and the cylinder has a flat base and sits on the top of it - it makes removal easier and means the crankcase needs no splitting to remove the cylinder. On a clamshell crankcase, the lower crankcase is like a clamshell and clamps on to the bottom of the cylinder that acts as the upper part of the crankcase as well as the cylinder i.e. it isn't flat and sits in a plastic cradle that forms the chainsaw body - they are always a PITA to work on as the whole engine needs to come out and be split if cylinder or piston needs work!

Well I would like to run this up the flag pole and park it there, I am 150% sure about this....where did the extra 50% come from - in my day 100% was it??? And Signage - what the flippin heck is this...it is a SIGN!!! Oh - when did controversy become contra....versy. Even on the BBC...Grrrrrr

In short, you need to remove the recoil cover, clutch cover, remove the carb, remove the top handle, remove the cover directly under where the top handle is, remove the manifold - note the different lengths of the retaining screws - get then the wrong way round and you will know it:thumbdown: Can't remember if you must remove the clutch and inner covers or not. You should then be able to remove the tank and do the reverse of the above. It is simple if you take it slowly and are reasonably mechanically minded - take a few pictures of the saw as you take it appart to jog your memory on reassembly.

You would need a 15", 0.325", 1.3mm chain and car, just make sure your sprocket is a 0.325" one. The Oregon Micro Lite with 95vpx chain is rapid but not the strongest option, just depends on the sort of work you are doing!

It's no joke - I got a flame a foot long and all the hairs on my right arm burnt off:blushing:

Typically I set the flywheel to coil gap with a doubled up piece of A4 paper (smaller gap than normal, I disconnect the kill wire and then earth the plug on the cylinder away from the hole and give it a fast spin over in a semi dark area and look for a spark. If it is not sparking, it is worth checking there is some form of continuity between the HT cap and the coil kill connection - if this is OK, it is a new coil time - the one good thing is that many of Stihls saws share the same coil:thumbup:

TBH I scavenge wood but it is always dead fallen that has been cleared from the road and DISCARDED in to the nearest ditch - I never cross a boundary without asking the land owner first and all the wood is either fallen or broken boughs. I wouldn't trespass to take others timber or take timber that has obviously been left for later pickup - I am talking piles of ivy clad dead standing that has blown down and been cut and lobbed - I have had the land owner thank me on more than one occassion:thumbup: It is how you do it - some take the piss, I just clear ditches and leave the site clean and tidy!

Classic - bit unseasonal though:lol:

It could be that the carbon is closing the gap between the piston crown and the squish band - had a 390XP with this recently! I usually scrape the squishband with a sharp wood chisel - a few engine builders are known to do the same:thumbup:

If you are interested, the pics are up on my "Whats on your bench" thread, I have repaired the 150 lanyard clip - don't think my one will break in a hurry:thumbup: The 346Xp ran, there was a busted clutch spring and a worn rim drive and will give the carb a going over and the recoil a clean plus a tach:thumbup:

Had a 3120XP, 346XP and MS150T in today, the MS150t was "making a funny noise", first thing I noticed was that the on/off switch wasn't working and traced it back to the fact both engine mount bolts had failed, one of which was the earthing point - one had sheared and one thread had expired. I helocoiled both and also fixed the lanyard attachemnt clip with something a lot stronger:thumbup: The 346XP was a non runner but started for me, 150psi - I did notice the clutch spring was fractured and the rim drive was worn so replaced both springs and a new rim.

I would say he would recommend a new saw:001_rolleyes:

There should be zero play if the crank bearings are in good fettle - looks like one has gone:thumbdown:

Hydraulic press:lol: I used to have two 60 ton American auto indexing CCD camera vision presses under my wing - fancy bits of kit, the tool sat on a pneumatic fed bolster so it floated, the printed substrate was held in position whilst the250KG tool was moved in to position using two CCD cognex cameras and bang, a perfect indexed cut and on with the next. Also had a smalle 40 ton british made press! I now use......a bench vice:thumbup: Polish the pullers - Nah, just don't use them that often but is one of those tools you always look out for so the one time you use them a year, you thank the Lord for them:thumbup:

There are bolts that hold a cast ally shroud around the flywheel, these often come loose and sound terminal! - it is the casting the recoil cover bolts to!

It is indeed, unfortunately too late to stop Matty beating his 372XP to death:thumbdown:

I have modded the outlet on a couple of MS660s now and am waiting to see if it has sorted any of the issues - if it is heat causing the problem, the most simple solution would appear to be taking the exhaust gasses out away from the handle - you also have to take in to account the saw being deep in to wood as well as just freestanding. I have pics on my porting thread - it was a simple fabricated piece of stainless brazed in place!

Stand for PM, I'd vote for you, do you want a deputy PM:thumbup:

Then if you have stripped out all the moving parts off the clutch side of the crankshaft and it is still noisy from the clutch side then it must be the crank bearings:thumbdown: They will also normally sound a bit hollow and rumbly when the saw is revved up. You can check the crank for play and also remove the cylinder and feel for notchiness in the crank beaings by rotatiing the crank!

I have been working on a set of Echo long reach hedge trimmers. The blades had no drive and found one of the conrods was broken - unfortunately it was the more difficult to get to. Splitting the gear assembly took all my pullers and was a damn tight fit - looked like the gear was also glued in place.