spudulike

I love you optimists - always rising for a fall:001_rolleyes:

Reckon the MS201 should have gone in the skip, not feeling the love on those:thumbdown:

You can bring it round for an opinion if you like - will show you a nice MS660 in spanking condition I am working on:thumbup:

Ah yes, I remember now:sneaky2: Glad you are happy with it - a tried and tested mod now!

And why is that Martin:sneaky2:

Looks like it pulls pretty well Wes, good job:thumbup:

An eclactic mix of cheap shrap that does the job, old school Draper, Hilka, britool and a few others - saw work is light weight work so isn't too heavy on the tools

Or fit Caber rings as on Meteor pistons!

Points don't make prizes, not in this game:001_huh:

390XP nearly finished, ported, new starter, new chain brake handle bush - they always go missing and a new rim drve, just waiting for the top AV spring. MS880, new decomp - very lucky it didn't drop as it was in a bad state - carb clean and rebuild as it wasn't starting well. MS660 in for porting - very nice condition and a brace of buggered 026s. Got an MS200 back after rebuild - owner said the idle wasn't good and lack of power - the chain depth gauges were as new but the cutters were half down so wouldn't cut for toffee - sorted that out and ran through some rock hard seasoned Wych Elm and it is perfect - bit baffling - top end was bang on 14Krpm......will run it through further wood this weekend before returning it.

Yeah, little saws have less to go wrong:blushing: Just evacuated the garage - MS880 just fired up that the guy said wouldn't start - think the crankcase is full of fuel:001_rolleyes: It's a pea souper:lol:

I have been contacted:lol: Probably a carb issue but like to start from a solid base so will check the saw out for leaks before doing any other work......there can't be too much wrong with it .......can there:confused1:

The OEM kit (original) is always the best option as log as it isn't excessively worn, stone saws do some brutal work but if the kit is advertised as being in good condition by a good seller then may be worth considering as Ray says. The aftermarket kits do sometimes have issues with clips and rings - well documented on here!

The stalling after each cut is and interesting one, it can be the saw running too rich and puddling the excess fuel in the crankcase, may be and air leak or even the opposite - too lean. Unfortunately you can't tell what the auto tune is doing - is the plug the correct colour - light tan?

STIHL TS410 CYLINDER KIT 50MM NISC COATED 12 MONTH WARRANTY NEW Try this fella, I had an issue with a kit I purchased and got a full refund but have since purchased much more kit over a long period of time with no issue. Good service goes a long way if you are unfortunate enough to have a failure! He trades as "Tesgol" on ebay!

Not being funny but that would be more likely to kill running at speed/load than idle....worth a check but it generally gives fast running issues:thumbup:

You have perfect pics of classic circlip damage. I am not sure if the standard Stihl piston should have the tabbed circlips as they generally fit the non tabbed ones - it is Husqvarna and aftermarket that generally have this type of circlip! Others may have done TS410s before! Just looked at the IPL - the original has a non tabbed circlip - your machine has an aftermarket kit on it!

Logburners are manna from Heaven:thumbup: I scavenge wood, some guys drop it off - it is free and burn anything going. This year I have burnt nothing but dead standing Elm and Ash - haven't even used anything from the log store - all pulled out of local ditches. I have oil central heating but use it for an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening, the log burner goes on between 2-5 in the afternoon and is run up to 11.00pm - the heat goes up through the house and pretty much warms it up:thumbup: Cutting the wood - most often cut with saws I am fixing but do use my own ported kit and always enjoy converting timber in to logs, the larger stuff I use the X27 Fiskars on to split - got enough seasoned wood for 5-6 years! If you can get free wood they are great, if you have to pay then not so good. I don't mind investing a bit of time cutting it or fixing peoples kit and taking a bit off wood off the owner if they are good enough to drop it off. Always nice to get the burner going - part of life!

And that is why autotune can be a PITA. I would suggest taking the exhaust off and make sure the piston is still OK. Take the plug out and look at its colour. The bubbly noise may be an over rich mix - when the plug is out, turn the ignition off, turn it upside down and pull it over hard a few times to expel any puddled fuel. If it doesn't start after that - see if the plug is damp/wet after trying to start it - if it is dry, you have a carb issue. If it is wet, check the spark by earthing the plug on the cylinder AWAY FROM THE PLUG HOLE (fire risk) and pull it over to see if you have spark. If all that is OK, see if you can start it and go from there. I do not know much about these autotune saws - the dealer has special interface connectors and programs to download what is going on - I don't have such luxury:thumbdown:

Sounds like issues in supplying fuel on the low speed part of the carb - I would normally wind the idle screw right in until it DOES idle but am guessing that this isn't working. Try turning the L screw 1/2 turn out and the idle screw 1-2 turns out from fully in and try again - you may find it hard to start but the leaner mix may give you a better idle speed. Failing this, you may have a bad fuel filter, bad or holed fuel line, a carb fault, leaking welch plug, air leak etc

That auto decomp is crap - take it out and plug the crankcase 100% otherwise you will get an airleak and further seizing , Fit a standard decomp valve, did this to mine and it is a good fix - the auto decomp can leak and lean down the saw giving running issues and seizure. Do you know the reason for the original seize? If not, make sure the carb settings are correct and the saw is free of airleaks when back together.

Get a typical business card, rotate the magnet away from the coil and place the business card between the flywheel and the coil then rotate the magnet so it sits in front of the coil. The business card should be a tight fit between the two - if it isn't, loosen the retaining bolts allowing the coil to be drawn toward the flywheel magnets and then do it up. Other than this, it is worth disconnencting the ignition kill wire from the coil and trying the spark again as it may be earthing out somewhere. It is also worth trying a multimeter to measure the resistance between the cap and coil kill connection to make sure there isn't a break in the HT wire or plug cap.

Very good Andy:lol: top marks

Yup - the arrow always points toward the exhaust port but have had one aftermarket piston have the arrow back to front - the piston ring pin is on the inlet side on this saw. The aftermarket kits tend to have issues with circlips (fit the originals) , brittle rings that snap and poor piston to bore fit. You could try Tesgol on ebay, one of the more decent sellers on there.

Bit boring but what about spares - the MS660 shares a fair bit with MS650, 066, 046, MS460 etc - what about spares for the saw they have sold a handful of and then recalled for some:confused1:reason - my worry would be that they will make some big changes and spares would be impossible to get:thumbdown: